Where in AZ are you? Any tips/tricks?Yes, its there. I just installed the Fusion amp along wit the kicker 6.5 this morning. It really made a improvement on the sound. Over all this has been the cheapest mod so far with great results.
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Where in AZ are you? Any tips/tricks?Yes, its there. I just installed the Fusion amp along wit the kicker 6.5 this morning. It really made a improvement on the sound. Over all this has been the cheapest mod so far with great results.
Where in AZ are you? Any tips/tricks?
Assume 1” #8 screws? Collecting what I need to complete project one night this week…Yup. My Badlands with High package was build week of 4/24/2023 and windowsticker says “AM/FM 6 SPKRS,SDARS” meaning subwoofer delete build with credit of $250. I removed the RHS trim panel in the rear and there is a harness connected to an amplifier with a red “X” marked on it that is connected to what looks like a subwoofer speaker, all mounted on a subwoofer enclosure. The amplifier has a circuit board inside but there are no components on it (chips, resistors, diodes, MOSFETs all missing) , and the subwoofer has NOTHING behind the paper cone and metal frame - just the frame, cone and electrical connection to the subwoofer harness from the Amp. So visually, it all looks like a normal subwoofer setup except that the parts don’t work.
That’s what makes the Ford Fusion amp and kicker such an easy upgrade - the wiring is all there, you just need to swap in functioning amp and speaker. The Fusion amp is physically identical to the Bronco amp so it bolts in the same place and the vehicle harness and subwoofer harness plug right into it. The kicker fits, tho you have to drill 8 holes in the subwoofer enclosure to mount it (with #8 sheet metal screws), trim off a small plastic alignment pin on the enclosure (it will interfere with the kicker sitting flat), and cut off the 4 connectors of the existing subwoofer harness from the amp and strip the wires to make the wire connection to the Kicker. Then use FORScan to change the settings now that you DO have a working subwoofer.![]()
On my 2Dr, i didn’t need any trim removal tools except for the tiny piece behind the D-Pillar. You can see what i mean in these two videos - the link will play the video at the moment they remove this piece:Do I need trim removal tools to remove the panels to install the amp/subwoofer or can it all be done by hand?
LOL I had the exact same failure of that plastic weld (1 of 3 that hold an extra mounting piece on the inside panel). Also used JB Weld to fix it.I am in Tucson. I did install some sound deadening on the quarter panel wall behind the sub enclosure and on the cargo area floor. Not sure if it helped or not but it didn't hurt.
Just take your time taking/pulling the tabs to remove the clips. There is one by the rear cargo light that is held down with 3 plastic welds, one of the welds broke but I used the some JB Weld for plastic to repair it.
The fake and the amp I ordered felt the same in weight, not sure if anyone has opened up that "fake" AMP or tried to see if it actually works. I expected the real AMP to be heavier.
Is it louder?Ok thanks i'll get some for the front dash then. I've done the Fusion amp and Kicker sub. Now that I'm liking the sound, I'm going to swap all the speakers (dash, kick panel, pods), because why not.![]()
Is it louder?Definite improvement - Fusion amp and Kicker 6.75 4 ohm here as well…
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How is the sound? Noticeable difference?I just put the Fusion Amp and Kicker in myself. Originally bought Kicker Key amp but when I realized how simple the plug and play would be with the Fusion, it was a no brainer.
by far and away a great upgrade. 100% suggest doing itHow is the sound? Noticeable difference?
I’m in north Scottsdale. It’s very simple. Let me know if you need help.Where in AZ are you? Any tips/tricks?