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Does the jack lift the wheel?

mdk100

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It hasn’t been said, but make sure you place blocks behind the opposite wheels so it doesn’t roll on you. Parking brake and leaving in gear is a must, but don’t forget the blocks.
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330SMG

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I doubt the jack is short. Also there may be times you are in a small hole and have to place a board under the jack, or move the truck ahead some.
Guess you missed him being shown the manual that says to put it under the axle tube.
 

BostonSasquatch

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@Sonnyhee2002, read the manual and ask somebody who's experienced to oversee you doing a tire change. (Doesn't have to be with the spare, just up->off->back on->and down, with proper jacking and chocking the wheels. There are small but important details, such as loosening and (more importantly) tightening the lug nuts across opposite parts of the circle, and not going around in a circular pattern, how much muscle torque to apply, that kind of stuff.

A thought on wheel locks. If you're only using four, and didn't know that the spare needs to be locked, then you're not including the spare in your tire rotation. It's an individual decision, but I strongly recommend a 5-wheel rotation. BTW, my 2x4-count lock set was cheaper than Ford's 5-count.

I bought two sets of four locks for my five wheels. I work them: one club, one star, on each side (that's four), and a club + a star on the spare, to double-lock it, as I consider that the most vulnerable to theft. I've got two left over as a "just in case." My logic: two different lock patterns should confuse and hopefully confound thieves as thy try to figure out whether they have the right "key" to steal my wheels. (Incidentally, I park on a city street. Envy you guys with workshop-garages!)
Remember--don't misplace those wheel lock "keys!" Best place is to put them in a ziplock bag with your tire-changing gear.
 
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JonD

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Thank you.

That is my 120v in for the truck. It then runs a battery maintainer under the hood and runs to the back of the truck where I have a power strip. Allows me to run everything in the truck with it off without fear of the battery going dead if plugged in. That spot was dead space.



4556BC3D-CA0A-4937-ABA6-4EF31E0AB0ED.jpeg
Your wheel well lights are they wired to your aux switches, if so can you share install. Doing the same
 

diablo0813

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No disrespect but the ( I didn't finish changing the tire as I dont want it to fall... I'm scared) says a lot. Especially the I'm scared part
Yes it does...it says he's not so pig-headed as to not recognize that he may have gotten in over his head and decided to ask for help...
 

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BigHoof

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No emergency, just adding spacers to the wheels.
What do you plan on torquing the lug nuts with? If a one time thing, find a friend with a torque wrench. If you plan on doing your own regular maintenance, then buying a torque wrench makes sense. You can buy a quality Husky wrench at Home Depot currently on sale for about $60. That is just as important as how to jack the car up. Maybe even more so because if a wheel falls off, you could hurt not only yourself but another as well.

None of this is hard to do but having a friend, coworker, ect show you what to do and how to do it safely would be very beneficial. No shame in asking, we were all green at one point.
 

Ground_zero298

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Your wheel well lights are they wired to your aux switches, if so can you share install. Doing the same
I didn’t do a install for it. Was pretty straight forward. Started from the rear pass over to the driver pass, up the frame rail to drivers front. Then brought the pass front over. I put it on a aux switch. My lights have the separate remote, so aux will send power to the controller and I need the remote to turn the lights on.

One of the tricks I did use was a roll of thick solder for fish tape in the wheel wells. Works good for working around tight spots. It can flex but still stays rigid. I just put 3/4” holes where ford had the pod locations. Just screwed right to the liners with self tappers. They lock up in that felt stuff.
 

NVCowboy

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I popped popcorn and proceeded to read this thread in a predetermined state of cringe based on the history of cannibalism on this site. Well done, Bronco 6G, well done. Bronco has been such a hit that it has brought an amazing lack of experience into what we view as “our world.”

That being said, if I ran into this situation out on the trail, I absolutely wouldn’t be able to stop myself “Stop, stop, stop (people love it when you give them three “stops.”). When you follow up three stops with “What the fuck are you doing?!” You have a friend for life. While they’re on their back foot “Let me help you with that” really throws them for a loop. <— This was meant to be funny, as what use is a world where we can’t help a person out with a good natured poke in the ribs.

Kudos to the OP for listening to the internal “Stop, stop, stop!” Also, some advice to OP, never admit to “scared.” “I’m afraid of damaging my truck or hurting myself “ says the same thing or more but won’t put blood in the water for the sharks that swim here.
 

JohnnyBronco

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What do you plan on torquing the lug nuts with? If a one time thing, find a friend with a torque wrench. If you plan on doing your own regular maintenance, then buying a torque wrench makes sense. You can buy a quality Husky wrench at Home Depot currently on sale for about $60. That is just as important as how to jack the car up. Maybe even more so because if a wheel falls off, you could hurt not only yourself but another as well.

None of this is hard to do but having a friend, coworker, ect show you what to do and how to do it safely would be very beneficial. No shame in asking, we were all green at one point.
Since spec is something like 90 ft-lb depends on if youbhad Whearies with spinach chaser for breakfast. If you can do 90 with a 15" wrench handle I don't want to meet you in a dark alley, lol. Seriously most people would have a hard te with tools supplied by Ford achieving proper wheel torque
 

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JohnnyBronco

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Even though I I have not placed the factory jack yet I have to comment that placing a flat jack surface ag1ainst a completely round axle housing a1t any location you choose is a recipe for disaster. By design there should be flat spots or receiver holes welded to the housing predetermined to position the top of the jack which may or may not have a saddle.

Think bottle jack with only a 1" diamer flat surface entirely inappropriate for lifting against a 3" round surface without danger of slipping out of position.

There will be one and only one recommended location per wheel position to use the supplied jack.

Now if you have a floor jack with enough power ypu can lift anywhere under the rear axle including under doff to lift both rear whes at same time (think 2-3 ton) no home garage should be without a floor jack and 11should be your first investment before the torque wrench or electric impact.
 

kodiakisland

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Even though I I have not placed the factory jack yet I have to comment that placing a flat jack surface ag1ainst a completely round axle housing a1t any location you choose is a recipe for disaster. By design there should be flat spots or receiver holes welded to the housing predetermined to position the top of the jack which may or may not have a saddle.

Think bottle jack with only a 1" diamer flat surface entirely inappropriate for lifting against a 3" round surface without danger of slipping out of position.

There will be one and only one recommended location per wheel position to use the supplied jack.

Now if you have a floor jack with enough power ypu can lift anywhere under the rear axle including under doff to lift both rear whes at same time (think 2-3 ton) no home garage should be without a floor jack and 11should be your first investment before the torque wrench or electric impact.

Don't worry, the jack is designed for lifting on the axle, just like every other jack that comes with a truck/SUV that has a solid rear axle. It's not rocket science, more like horse and buggy science.
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