Another B&O Upgrade Discussion

[NickOhio]

I've read up on just about everything, but don't feel comfortable with my decisions. Hoping some of the great members here can chime in. Overall I don't hate the B&O system, but it is nowhere near my Tesla Model S, trying to recreate that in the Bronco. I haven't figure out what is rattling yet, but with just 2 taps above the even bass settling, anything with a little low frequency is rattling something. Not sure if it's the sub or what, figure that out later. But anyways, just looking for some confirmation of what I want to do to get started is heading in the right direction towards the Tesla sound.

I’m a little partial towards JL Audio, have a large system in my boat and love them. Would this setup fit right?

2 JLA C1-650x for kick panels
2 JLA C1-650x for the Mabett pods
And then is it 3 JLA C1-400x for the dash? Since speakers come in pairs, do you not do the middle speaker, or just have an extra to trade or throw randomly in my golf cart?

All are 4ohm. Sounds like 6.75 will fit in the pods so would it be better to go with Kicker CS for the extra .25”?

Appreciate any feedback.

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[Moribach]

1. Currently, I run with 3x C1-400x in the dash. They all work perfect and sound WAY better then stock B&O.
2. I also put 2 C1-650x in the kicks. They don't change much sound imo. They also rattle a bit against the plastic grill in the kick panel.
   • I haven't bothered to delve back into them yet but plan to put some foam or something around them.
3. I don't have 6.5" rears yet but used two Hertz DCX100.3's for now. Way better then stock.

The 4th 4" speaker is a trade or hold as you note.

Oh, and any upgrade to the front 3 and rear 2 will make the B&O a throw away..... so don't hesistate.

 

[NickOhio]

I’ll take that extra 400 if you still have it.
I think I’ll skip the kick panels to start and get the Mabett rears.

 

[NickOhio]

I have on order 2 pairs of C1-400x’s for the fronts. 1 to be for sale, preferably local but after a week or so I’ll ship.

Also have the Mabett pods and C1-650x’s for those.

Still trying to decide on 6.75” or 8” on the sub. I don’t need anything too crazy, but the top is off often, game time decision in a week or so when I’m to that point. As for the Kicker key 500.1, can you not use the factory power line? Rather not have to run a line all the way to the battery if I can avoid it.

Bought a boatload of sound deadening mat for behind and around all speakers.

 

[teevan]

I know its not a popular approach, but I put a pair of Memphis MJP6 woofers in the kick panels and think they sound great. Gives some extra bass without sacrificing much because you wont get much high end down there anyway...

 

[mpeugeot]

I wouldn't shy away from the MoBridge DSP/amplifier for the Bronco. It's got enough power and sounds really good. The tuning software works well and it has been trouble free. Installation was very straightforward and relatively painless. Pre-wired to plug into the Bronco.

https://mobridge.us/product/ford-bronco-amplifier-plug-and-play-a2b/

Depending on how much power you are looking for, but the MoBridge has a 10 channel DSP, 9 channels of amplification, 1 low level output, and around 1150W RMS/2300W Peak total output.

I am running Morel Maximo Ultra Coax 402 and 602 speakers with a Kicker 48TRTP122 sub-woofer

 

[NickOhio]

If what is sitting on my front porch doesn't sound like I want, this is next up. Then all I'm doing is replacing the 500KEY with this setup and running speaker wire from the amp/sub area to the speakers powered by the head unit.

The amp power almost seems like overkill for what is essentially a stock 7.1 system, not 10 or 9.1.

 

[NickOhio]

Hoping to get some feedback from the group here. Installed everything above, 3 400x in the dash, no inline filters, Mabett 6.5 pods with 650x's, Key500 and the Kicker CompR 8" sub in the existing sub enclosure. I had to rotozip just a bit off the enclosure for it to fit and filled with Polyfill. It is still ported. I also installed sounds mat everywhere, around the enclosure, in the enclosure walls, the cargo floor. Ran the KEY Algorithm with both hi/low pass filters all the way up, full clockwise, no bass boost.

So the problem is this, this thing is rattling so much and I think it's the actual sub, so I can't even focus on trim rattles yet. I bought some window foam seal and will be giving that a try under the sub connection to the enclosure. Does this seem like a needed fix? I heard no one else mention this. I had to put all the cargo back together for now for a trip, but next week will be pulling apart again.

On a side note, I have ordered the DV8 rear bumper with lights, the spare tire license plate mount from DV8 (didn't like what comes with the bumper), DV8 front bully bar and 4 red shackles.

 

[vicorjh]

Hoping to get some feedback from the group here. Installed everything above, 3 400x in the dash, no inline filters, Mabett 6.5 pods with 650x's, Key500 and the Kicker CompR 8" sub in the existing sub enclosure. I had to rotozip just a bit off the enclosure for it to fit and filled with Polyfill. It is still ported. I also installed sounds mat everywhere, around the enclosure, in the enclosure walls, the cargo floor. Ran the KEY Algorithm with both hi/low pass filters all the way up, full clockwise, no bass boost.

So the problem is this, this thing is rattling so much and I think it's the actual sub, so I can't even focus on trim rattles yet. I bought some window foam seal and will be giving that a try under the sub connection to the enclosure. Does this seem like a needed fix? I heard no one else mention this. I had to put all the cargo back together for now for a trip, but next week will be pulling apart again.

On a side note, I have ordered the DV8 rear bumper with lights, the spare tire license plate mount from DV8 (didn't like what comes with the bumper), DV8 front bully bar and 4 red shackles.

I had installed some sorbathane washers to semi-isolate the sub enclosure from the chassis mounts. That greatly decreased the vibration transfer to the chassis. Along with stuffing the panels and CLD, have been rattle free.

Some detail can be found here:

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/jl-audio-8w3v3-4-in-a-modified-oe-sub-enclosure.78805/

 

[NickOhio]

I had installed some sorbathane washers to semi-isolate the sub enclosure from the chassis mounts. That greatly decreased the vibration transfer to the chassis. Along with stuffing the panels and CLD, have been rattle free.

Some detail can be found here:

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/jl-audio-8w3v3-4-in-a-modified-oe-sub-enclosure.78805/

Thanks for the info. I'll take it all apart again next week, and try either the sound deadening mat between the driver and the enclosure, or the tap backed window seal foam. And then probably make some double thick washers out of the mat for connection to the body. My setup is slightly different with the factory amp.

I will say at 35mp+, it sounds awesome. Do you have the B&O and any Forscan settings that can be changed? I feel like the pods are just playing treble, even with the 6.5" upgrade.

 

[vicorjh]

Do you have the B&O and any Forscan settings that can be changed?

Yes BO although, in my case, I had swapped the OEM DSP amp with a mObridge amp.

No forscan needed in this case since the DSP was replaced. The amp pulls the unadulterated audio stream directly from the A2B bus.

There are a number of threads here that discuss forscan changes but I think that they mostly address non-BO systems.

Since the OEM BO system will split the channels between two amps/modules, the ACM and the DSP. You may not have access to all of the channel settings since the DSP is something of a mystery. The rear pods are driven by the ACM ... which means you could possibly access settings via forscan.

If you are unable to find the settings in the forum, @RagnarKon may be able to help direct you for the forscan audio stuff. Sorry, I can't help much there.

If you can afford the investment and install effort, take a look at the mObridge offering as well. Just a better and more flexible amplifier solution overall.

 

[NickOhio]

I was able to get rid of 90% of the sub rattle. Wrapped the entire enclosure cargo base with Siless sound mat. What's left I believe is the body itself and the panel over the sub. I don't think I have the room to fit another layer of Siless over the inside of the panel, but I might try.

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