Adams Driveshaft double cardan style driveshaft installed

[Bmadda]

So if you, like me have a lifted 2dr, and actually wheel it, chances are good the boot on your rear driveshaft/front joint (the one at the rear of the xfer case) is torn/shredded etc. Moreover, no Ford dealer I talked to would warranty this...they all claim that Ford will bounce the claim if the truck is lifted (lift me baby). Anyhow...regardless of my responsibilty to pay for this, what is more important to me is a long term solution! Tom Woods has announced they are not going to make driveshafts for 6g (that sucks, but o well). I tried the terraflex cv style joint, and it was no better. Enter Adams Driveshaft near Las Vegas! Another member here tipped me off that they were building them, and turns out alot of the guys in the local Jeep club have used their shafts as well, and they have a good reputation.

The "holy grail" of flanges!:

They also send you a pinion yoke, the ever popular 12mm 12pt ford driveshaft bolts, and U-bolts for the 1350 style pinion yoke...word to the wise tho...check the pinion yoke closely! I got the wrong one at 1st. Same spline, but not deep enough to preload the pinion bearing. Here's the wrong one, next to the original. It's easy to see the difference, but if you don't compare the two, the wrong one will bolt on, but the pinion will be loose, and make nasty noise!

Anyhow, they were quick to remedy that situation, and sent me the right one overnight...thanks guys! The guy you wana talk to is John Dickinson...he seems to be the guy that knows 6g Bronco stuff there, and a helpful dude! He's gonna want 2 length measurements w/the vehicle at curb height...flange lip to flange lip, and seal to seal, and that's basically all he needs!

I didn't ask whether the u joints were greasable, and turns out they are not. Solid cross type are much stronger, but where I live greasable is better...these will likely need to be changed in a couple years...not an issue for you folks in the golden west tho I suppose! Feels like a very solid shaft...on par w/race ones I have had built over the years...and should permanently solve my articulation problem! Balance was spot on...smooth up to 75mph accel and decel...so I am 100% happy!

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[userdude]

Was this on the one on portals?

 

[Arokcrwlr]

My boot is shredded. I'm going to run with it until it needs replaced, then I'll be giving these guys a call. Too bad Tom Woods isn't doing 6G drive shafts - I have used him exclusively for my EB driveline needs over the years. Thank you for posting this - game changer!

 

[Bmadda]

Was this on the one on portals?

yes, but note I had this issue BEFORE the portal install. It also has suspension lift

 

[TEAMSLO]

John is friggin awesome there. Cant say enough about the Adams team. I have used them for my JLURD and probably heading that way if I keep the Bronco.

 

[Solfive]

Another shout out for Adams, they’re local to me and have a great reputation in town. I’ve been running their driveshafts on my JK for 15 plus years without any issues. They obviously don’t have the name recognition of Woods etc., but I wouldn’t hesitate to order from them if you’re in need.

 

[NORCALGXP]

Excellent this is great news thanks for the info.

 

[VoltageDrop]

So if you, like me have a lifted 2dr, and actually wheel it, chances are good the boot on your rear driveshaft/front joint (the one at the rear of the xfer case) is torn/shredded etc. Moreover, no Ford dealer I talked to would warranty this...they all claim that Ford will bounce the claim if the truck is lifted (lift me baby). Anyhow...regardless of my responsibilty to pay for this, what is more important to me is a long term solution! Tom Woods has announced they are not going to make driveshafts for 6g (that sucks, but o well). I tried the terraflex cv style joint, and it was no better. Enter Adams Driveshaft near Las Vegas! Another member here tipped me off that they were building them, and turns out alot of the guys in the local Jeep club have used their shafts as well, and they have a good reputation.

The "holy grail" of flanges!:

They also send you a pinion yoke, the ever popular 12mm 12pt ford driveshaft bolts, and U-bolts for the 1350 style pinion yoke...word to the wise tho...check the pinion yoke closely! I got the wrong one at 1st. Same spline, but not deep enough to preload the pinion bearing. Here's the wrong one, next to the original. It's easy to see the difference, but if you don't compare the two, the wrong one will bolt on, but the pinion will be loose, and make nasty noise!

Anyhow, they were quick to remedy that situation, and sent me the right one overnight...thanks guys! The guy you wana talk to is John Dickinson...he seems to be the guy that knows 6g Bronco stuff there, and a helpful dude! He's gonna want 2 length measurements w/the vehicle at curb height...flange lip to flange lip, and seal to seal, and that's basically all he needs!

I didn't ask whether the u joints were greasable, and turns out they are not. Solid cross type are much stronger, but where I live greasable is better...these will likely need to be changed in a couple years...not an issue for you folks in the golden west tho I suppose! Feels like a very solid shaft...on par w/race ones I have had built over the years...and should permanently solve my articulation problem! Balance was spot on...smooth up to 75mph accel and decel...so I am 100% happy!

Beef and American made... it's hard to bmadda bout that!

 

[JerryG]

I have a Dana 44/60/1350 being installed in a week- do you recommend going with an Adams vs. the Dana 1350?

 

[Bmadda]

I have a Dana 44/60/1350 being installed in a week- do you recommend going with an Adams vs. the Dana 1350?

On a 2dr, absolutely! The longer 4dr driveshaft doesn't put as much angle on that front rzeppa style joint as the 2dr does, so probably doesn't need this style. Wouldn't hurt it tho, and for what the Dana shaft costs, you are only a few dollars away from this one! You're gonna have to install the U60 1st to get your measurements, and I would call them and see if you need a pinion yoke for U60, or if they can set it up to work w/the one it comes with (i think it ships w/a 1350 conventional u bolt yoke, but @BigMeatsBronco would know better). I actually bought and paid for that same setup, but the order was delayed so long I canceled, took my refund, and sunk it in portals, so I kinda started doing the same build as you

 

[MattCO4x4]

On the tcase output nut. What torque spec did you use to install the new yoke/flange? Did the factory output flange require a 3 jaw puller?

 

[Bmadda]

On the tcase output nut. What torque spec did you use to install the new yoke/flange? Did the factory output flange require a 3 jaw puller?

3 raps or roughly 90ft-lb. Couple sharp whacks w/#7 bashing tool to remove. Nut is a self locker, w/washer and rubber washer (for leakage). Re used all. Puller would work fine if thats the route u wana go!

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