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Here’s a video with some highlights of doing the FDU and steering rack while on the garage floor. Really wasn’t too terrible, all things considered. And the neck doesn’t hurt from looking up.

If you were curious, you do need to remove the steering rack to get the FDU out. Just doesn’t seem like it will work any other way. So in our case we dropped the diff mounts and everything up front, leaving the driveline connected. The diff comes delivered without the top bracket installed, maybe it doesn’t get used in the Ranger? 🤷🏼‍♂️ Either way, unknowingly leaving those two bolts on top hooked up still provided enough room to slide the steering rack out. With the old rack out, the old diff was dropped, the new diff slid in but without the front mounts hooked up. The S3 steering rack went in quite easily. Without a second set of hands to hook up the steering shaft this might be a different story, but we barely struggled with the rack. After getting the rack hooked up it was just a matter of putting the diff back in and aligning bolts, then installing axles and filling up the diff break-in oil. We already had everything torn apart waiting on the steering rack to be delivered. I’d say it was maybe eight hours of work including pulling the UCA’s to install heim joint booties.

Threw it into a video in the event anyone finds it useful.

Edit-seems you do not need remove the steering rack to drop the differential with the 2.7L engine.

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Nice upgrade.
For the 2.7 you don't need to remove the rack, only the top mount on the diff. 🤠
No kidding? I didn’t measure anything but it looked like it would be a pain. My calibrated eyeball must be off.
 

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No kidding? I didn’t measure anything but it looked like it would be a pain. My calibrated eyeball must be off.
Yep,
I fought with it for a while trying to get it out & finally just took the 2 bolts out of the top mount and it rolled out. We took the top mount off the new diff when we put it in with little trouble once I had a second set of hands. That thing is heavy when on your back trying to clear the cross member 🤠
 

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Nice upgrade.
For the 2.7 you don't need to remove the rack, only the top mount on the diff. 🤠
Ohhh I didn't know that.

I've been dreading doing both of these.

I have a 3.0 rack sitting on a shelf in my garage, but I've been waiting to upgrade the FDU before I do the rack.
 

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Yep,
I fought with it for a while trying to get it out & finally just took the 2 bolts out of the top mount and it rolled out. We took the top mount off the new diff when we put it in with little trouble once I had a second set of hands. That thing is heavy when on your back trying to clear the cross member 🤠
Are you saying you mounted the top mount, then slid the diff in and bolted it up?!? I did not think of that 🤦🏼‍♂️
 

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Are you saying you mounted the top mount, then slid the diff in and bolted it up?!? I did not think of that 🤦🏼‍♂️
Nope, Marlin spiked the front mount to hold it. Started the 10 mm bolt just for alignment then bolted the top mount back on the FDU and bolted it to the drivers side frame. Took about 10 min once I had help 🤠 .
 

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Ohhh I didn't know that.

I've been dreading doing both of these.

I have a 3.0 rack sitting on a shelf in my garage, but I've been waiting to upgrade the FDU before I do the rack.
I've got the 2.0 rack so YMMV 🤠
 

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So I can remove my M190 by removing top mount and install M210 and reinstalling top mount once it's rotated in without removing the 3.0 steering rack?
 
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Nope, Marlin spiked the front mount to hold it. Started the 10 mm bolt just for alignment then bolted the top mount back on the FDU and bolted it to the drivers side frame. Took about 10 min once I had help 🤠 .
Nice man. Getting that rearward bolt on the top was my biggest issue. My crows foot didn’t quite clear the mounting bracket and the biggest flexhead(?) ratcheting wrench I had was 19mm. If I had the correct wrench it would’ve been pretty easy. We just hit the front nut with extensions down from the top of the engine bay.
 

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So I can remove my M190 by removing top mount and install M210 and reinstalling top mount once it's rotated in without removing the 3.0 steering rack?
Calling @Snacktime for this one. Mine was 210 to UFDU 🤠
 

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Nice man. Getting that rearward bolt on the top was my biggest issue. My crows foot didn’t quite clear the mounting bracket and the biggest flexhead(?) ratcheting wrench I had was 19mm. If I had the correct wrench it would’ve been pretty easy. We just hit the front nut with extensions down from the top of the engine bay.
3/8 Flex head ratchet with shallow socket or a flex head ratchet wrench. I looked to do it from above but there was just too much wobble in all the extensions and it was uncomfortable belly over fender trying to keep from falling off the stool to make it happen 😏.
 
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3/8 Flex head ratchet with shallow socket or a flex head ratchet wrench. I looked to do it from above but there was just too much wobble in all the extensions and it was uncomfortable belly over fender trying to keep from falling off the stool to make it happen 😏.
Yep. I was not prepared.

The misses took care of the front nut with her extensions. She doesn’t have a “belly over fender” concern 😂 I stayed on the floor fighting that rear bolt.
 

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Here's Zack doing it with the mount off, steering connected.
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