2025 subwoofer amp installation

[Kboyts]

I have a 25 big bend and already added the kicker key 200.4 and speaker upgrade. The bass is lacking and needs addressed. I'm thinking more towards a tailgate mounted box for 1 10 or a 12 . I'm concerned that simply upgrading the stock sub to a 8" and slightly bigger amp would leave me disappointed and have to do it over again.

What's the best way to install/ get input signal to an aftermarket amp in the new 25's since they switched to the digital input on the subject amp.

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[RagnarKon]

Right now your best option is just to take the output from the factory subwoofer amplifier. Kinda lackluster honestly, but... the aftermarket hasn't fully caught up yet.

 

[Kboyts]

Right now your best option is just to take the output from the factory subwoofer amplifier. Kinda lackluster honestly, but... the aftermarket hasn't fully caught up yet.

So pull from the speaker inputs to the factory sub into a loc ?

 

[RagnarKon]

So pull from the speaker inputs to the factory sub into a loc ?

Yup. Either a LOC or use an amplifier that accepts High-level (speaker-level) inputs.

Or wait for the aftermarket to catch up. I assume at some point we'll see some single-channel A2B interfaces.

 

[23OBX2.7]

AmpPro has a 2025+ A to B module ..not cheap but at least set up to plug and play future upgrades.

 

[Kboyts]

Any legitimate reason the stinger box is $300 more than the NVX version? Even if the sub is better with that extra 300 I could get a much better sub and put it in the NVX box.

 

[quadpipes]

Yup. Either a LOC or use an amplifier that accepts High-level (speaker-level) inputs.

Or wait for the aftermarket to catch up. I assume at some point we'll see some single-channel A2B interfaces.

Im using a Musway amp and im pulling mt sub input from my front channel. Musway gives you options to set high level input.

Im running a 10 inch sub using gear shade box. Works great.

Joe from plug and play will help you out. Just let him know if you are going to use forescan or not. I didn't and ended up only having channel 1 and 2 as my input to my amp. Still sounds good just no fade.

 

[mallaki]

subscribed...

 

[23OBX2.7]

My Kenwood XR 1001.1 takes signal from B&O amp sub wire, auto sumes / equalizes it and connects to NOS Hertz EBX 25.5 enclosure that has 10" sub and 12" passive radiator, 8 X M6 rivnut bolted to tailgate with two Hertz horizontal brackets. Remote knob 3M taped to underside left of HVAC console.

Can feel the bass in the seats!

 

[NateTTU]

I have a slightly different, but related question, does anyone know the efficiency rating of the stock 6.5'' subwoofer in the 2025? (non B&O)

 

[23OBX2.7]

I have a slightly different, but related question, does anyone know the efficiency rating of the stock 6.5'' subwoofer in the 2025? (non B&O)

It's not even worth expending any brain or capital resource on.....and no one will know the sensitivity which is likely in the 87-94 range and meaningless with out at least 500W RMS

 

[NateTTU]

It's not even worth expending any brain or capital resource on.....and no one will know the sensitivity which is likely in the 87-94 range and meaningless with out at least 500W RMS

That's fair, thanks for the reply. I was considering just swapping out the sub with a 'better' driver, but I think you're right that adding an amp is needed at this point. Anyone know how to pull off the LR and on/off signal from the stock harness adapter? I'm fairly handy at wiring, but would just need to know how the connector is wired together to break it back out to a Kicker 500.1.

 

[23OBX2.7]

500.1 waste of money....very low quality for the money. I would pull signal from kick speaker and feed into a loaded and amplified Sub enclosure....can get deals on them because everyone thinks they can do better that global leading acoustics engineering and fabrication....so sales are slow.

Can probably find a very good one on classifieds somewhere or see Kenwood if budget is tight.

 

[NateTTU]

500.1 waste of money....very low quality for the money. I would pull signal from kick speaker and feed into a loaded and amplified Sub enclosure....can get deals on them because everyone thinks they can do better that global leading acoustics engineering and fabrication....so sales are slow.

Can probably find a very good one on classifieds somewhere or see Kenwood if budget is tight.

Thanks again for responding to my multiple inquiries.

First, to address your question from the other thread, this is a non-B&O system. I have not yet removed the side panel to confirm, but I am assuming it contains the 6.5" factory subwoofer.

For context, I have extensive experience listening to and building higher-end home audio systems in the $10K–$30K range. While not ultra-high-end, they have provided a well-calibrated reference point for evaluating sound quality, system integration, and overall performance.

That said, I have very limited experience with car audio. I recognize that the automotive environment introduces unique acoustic constraints—cabin gain, near-field listening positions, complex reflections, and space limitations—that differ significantly from a dedicated two-channel home setup. I am not expecting parity with my personal home system; however, I am looking for a meaningful improvement in overall clarity, dynamic output, and low-frequency extension within the constraints of the vehicle platform.

I spoke with Joe at PlugnPlay, and he recommended the M6Pro since my preference is to retain the OEM enclosure and preserve usable cargo space. Based on the published specifications, bridging channels 5/6 to deliver approximately 400W @ 4Ohms to the selected subwoofer in the factory enclosure appears more than adequate, assuming real-world output aligns reasonably with rated performance.

While overall cost is increasing, it remains justifiable if the performance gain is proportionate. If the Kicker alternatives represent a measurable compromise, I would prefer to invest appropriately upfront rather than under-build the system and revisit it later.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Thanks again for responding to my multiple inquiries.

First, to address your question from the other thread, this is a non-B&O system. I have not yet removed the side panel to confirm, but I am assuming it contains the 6.5" factory subwoofer.

For context, I have extensive experience listening to and building higher-end home audio systems in the $10K–$30K range. While not ultra-high-end, they have provided a well-calibrated reference point for evaluating sound quality, system integration, and overall performance.

That said, I have very limited experience with car audio. I recognize that the automotive environment introduces unique acoustic constraints—cabin gain, near-field listening positions, complex reflections, and space limitations—that differ significantly from a dedicated two-channel home setup. I am not expecting parity with my personal home system; however, I am looking for a meaningful improvement in overall clarity, dynamic output, and low-frequency extension within the constraints of the vehicle platform.

I spoke with Joe at PlugnPlay, and he recommended the M6Pro since my preference is to retain the OEM enclosure and preserve usable cargo space. Based on the published specifications, bridging channels 5/6 to deliver approximately 400W @ 4Ohms to the selected subwoofer in the factory enclosure appears more than adequate, assuming real-world output aligns reasonably with rated performance.

While overall cost is increasing, it remains justifiable if the performance gain is proportionate. If the Kicker alternatives represent a measurable compromise, I would prefer to invest appropriately upfront rather than under-build the system and revisit it later.

That amp is only 260W @4 ohm two channels bridged....it might be 400W @2 ohm bridged and thats maxinf out the amp with zero headroom left. Not worth the spend.

You can find musway and comparable amps at Diymobileaudio for very cheap, plus most speakers you will need. Musway seems to have a less than stellar quality reputation.

Whatever amp you buy call their customer service first to test if it exists and see gowmgood a silly adice question is answered. Audison os instany highly qualified.

From experience, bridging multichannel DSP for sub really stresses the amp. Far better to have 35-65W per ch (ears bleed) and a seperate 1000W @ 4 ohm mono amp.

Base system is easiest to upgrade because dont need the AtoB or any forscan work with right equip.

I tried a few different sub setups and can saynby far the Hertz MPBX300S2 enclosure on tailgate powered by 1000W @ 2ohm transformed the B&O.

Thankfully I only wasted $300 pissing around with cheaper experiments.

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