2.7L Oil Change Tips + Replacement Drain Plugs

[Bronco_montana]

I have Ronins on 2 ecobeasts/ 3.5 f150 and 2.7 bronco. Both are weep free and consider them a must have.
several people I ride with have similar excellent results.

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[CarbonSteel]

I have Ronins on 2 ecobeasts/ 3.5 f150 and 2.7 bronco. Both are weep free and consider them a must have.
several people I ride with have similar excellent results.

Something clearly changed. I installed the Ronin on my 2.7L at the first oil change which was at 1,000 miles so it was not the pan being worn prior to installing it. I clearly have seepage because the area where the plug sits against the pan is always damp despite me wiping it down a number of times.

I have another new in the box Ronin, but am going to try something else. I do not trust the wave washer as the only "security" to prevent it from backing out.

 

[Bronco_montana]

I’m sure you can sell both for nearly what you paid.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I’m sure you can sell both for nearly what you paid.

No doubt--one in NIB and the other would come with extra wave washers and o-rings.

 

[CarbonSteel]

@WLDTRK73 - looks like UPR has two (well four) models.

This is the original:

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco/

This appears to be something new:

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco/

The new version has a threaded cap for the end versus the rubber plug on the original, but the new version also appears to use a wave washer for security. It does have the double o-ring so it should not leak, just not sure about that wave washer.

 

[WLDTRK73]

@WLDTRK73 - looks like UPR has two (well four) models.

This is the original:

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco/

This appears to be something new:

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco/

The new version has a threaded cap for the end versus the rubber plug on the original, but the new version also appears to use a wave washer for security. It does have the double o-ring so it should not leak, just not sure about that wave washer.

Looks like they took the Ronin and attempted to improve it with their new product. I think the original one may be the way to go, the locking arms seem to add the extra layer of protection and now with the information that the blue piece clicks into place from the other thread, it only makes sense to ditch the wave washer and gain back that piece of mind? What say you?

 

[CarbonSteel]

Looks like they took the Ronin and attempted to improve it with their new product. I think the original one may be the way to go, the locking arms seem to add the extra layer of protection and now with the information that the blue piece clicks into place from the other thread, it only makes sense to ditch the wave washer and gain back that piece of mind? What say you?

Agree; one thing that I would not do is to remove the entire plug each oil change as I have seen noted in a few places and for two reasons:

1. I would have to drop the skid plate so it partially defeats the purpose of having a plug like this.
2. Over time, you are going to wear the plastic of the pan due to the steel locking tabs.

What I wonder is how much oil is left in the pan without removing it. If it is less than a cup or so, no big deal, but it is more, that might be something to think about.

 

[WLDTRK73]

Agree; one thing that I would not do is to remove the entire plug each oil change as I have seen noted in a few places and for two reasons:

1. I would have to drop the skid plate so it partially defeats the purpose of having a plug like this.
2. Over time, you are going to wear the plastic of the pan due to the steel locking tabs.

What I wonder is how much oil is left in the pan without removing it. If it is less than a cup or so, no big deal, but it is more, that might be something to think about.

1. Completely agree, although, I wonder how challenging it would be to slide the hose over the portion that screws out of the assembly. It accepts a 1/2" hose, just might take some convincing to get it onto the valve. I think it is possible, but it would require some effort.

2. Exactly, which ties into your last point. I would venture to say due to similar design that it is leaving behind the same as the Ronin though? Obviously, that is just an assumption, but I cannot imagine that the designs vary enough to give a different result.

 

[CarbonSteel]

1. Completely agree, although, I wonder how challenging it would be to slide the hose over the portion that screws out of the assembly. It accepts a 1/2" hose, just might take some convincing to get it onto the valve. I think it is possible, but it would require some effort.

2. Exactly, which ties into your last point. I would venture to say due to similar design that it is leaving behind the same as the Ronin though? Obviously, that is just an assumption, but I cannot imagine that the designs vary enough to give a different result.

My guess is that it would be pretty easy to push a hose over the end of the UPR, the hard part will be removing it since you are working against the barb and I am betting it would take some "convincing" and all the while you would be putting pressure on the plug in the pan.

That is one benefit of the Ronin--you can install the hose with the drain key out of the vehicle and remove it as well. If the Ronin had a double o-ring, it would be close to perfect. I read that UPR designed theirs with 2 o-rings to remove the slop from the plug that even exists on the factory Ford plug.

A seriously $hitty design from Ford and no one has stepped up to build one from aluminum or steel. I am guessing it is because of the internal design of the pan in relation to the dipstick area:

 

[WLDTRK73]

Very solid point… you are exactly right and we know how well these plastic components are with a little convincing, lol.

If the UPR eliminates the leakage I am getting from the Ronin, with the only caveat being removing the skids… that’s an inconvenience I am willing to deal with for the peace of mind.

I thought about that yesterday in the process of the change, along with during conversation with you today. All of this headache could have easily been avoided and hopefully will be avoided in the future when someone does step up!

 

[buzpro]

The question is, why did UPR add a spring washer? don't they know what you guys are discussing? If the original was tight n secure then why? How did it improve the plug?

Also are those 2 O-rings permanent? or do they have to be changed like the stupid oil filter?

 

[TNcoupe]

@TNcoupe and @jatt143 - Were you all able to get the plug to seat properly, where you did not see the wave spring? Mine also looks just like this after installation yesterday... No matter what I do, I cannot get it to go in any further. Detent still locks in and have to push inward to the oil pan to remove.

The wave spring showing there is correctly installed. It applies outward pressure to the plug to ensure no leakage. Mine has been in now for 50k miles and no leaks

 

[WLDTRK73]

The question is, why did UPR add a spring washer? don't they know what you guys are discussing? If the original was tight n secure then why? How did it improve the plug?

Also are those 2 O-rings permanent? or do they have to be changed like the stupid oil filter?

Those are all very valid points, certainly questions which need asking... Regarding the added spring washer, the one answer that comes to mind almost immediately is found in the other thread where @telenerd was trying to figure out how to remove the plug. He has since figured it out, but I would surmise that UPR received questions like this from multiple. So, in an attempt to fix/eliminate the confusion, add the spring washer and eliminate the locking tabs. Also, as @CarbonSteel mentioned earlier yesterday, those locking tabs are sure to wear down the plastic of the pan where those locking tabs sit in place, IF you remove it excessively. Lastly, I will add that while I am currently not a fan of the spring washer - they are seemingly much easier to remove and it can be done multiple times [this is the real reason why I think UPR made the change].

Just like everything, including the oil filter, it is a best practice to change them out (in my opinion). Even with the Ronin, once enough time passes, I would want to replace the single o-ring again just for peace of mind. If you are not removing it every single oil change then you are probably perfectly fine for a long time... that is up to the end-users discretion, as no manufacturer is clarifying this that I can find.

 

[telenerd]

My Rock Hard 4x4 skids have an oil trap door. One bolt, bam you have access to the plug. No pulling the skids like the stock one or other aftermarket skids on market.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Those are all very valid points, certainly questions which need asking... Regarding the added spring washer, the one answer that comes to mind almost immediately is found in the other thread where @telenerd was trying to figure out how to remove the plug. He has since figured it out, but I would surmise that UPR received questions like this from multiple. So, in an attempt to fix/eliminate the confusion, add the spring washer and eliminate the locking tabs. Also, as @CarbonSteel mentioned earlier yesterday, those locking tabs are sure to wear down the plastic of the pan where those locking tabs sit in place, IF you remove it excessively. Lastly, I will add that while I am currently not a fan of the spring washer - they are seemingly much easier to remove and it can be done multiple times [this is the real reason why I think UPR made the change].

Just like everything, including the oil filter, it is a best practice to change them out (in my opinion). Even with the Ronin, once enough time passes, I would want to replace the single o-ring again just for peace of mind. If you are not removing it every single oil change then you are probably perfectly fine for a long time... that is up to the end-users discretion, as no manufacturer is clarifying this that I can find.

I am considering being a guinea pig on the new UPR (https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco/).

The double o-ring is appealing because it will seal better (still cannot believe the Ronin weeps, but it IS pretty sloppy on the fit) and the metal tabs on the other UPR design although secure will ultimately result in wear if removed frequently.

The other benefit is the new model may drain a bit more oil from the pan due to the design allowing oil to flow from the inner diameter versus the outer:

This:

Versus This:

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