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start with the checkbox items bi-amp on - check Fader dip - check (big one) make sure your fader is center if you know your harness is good (check again) and that your auto tune was good. pixelated sound is a new one to me. However the “only sounds ok if all left or right” might be a phase...

Can’t deny an Audison is a better amp. Way more work to configure and more pricey. Undeniably better in all other ways. I’d personally like a 12 channel Audison but I just don’t need it. Not that need really always factors into my decision making. Can’t speak to the warranty issue other than...

Not to mention slow AF and difficult to use.

Just came across something that may get me in trouble. Not sure I like the look but that many speakers will bring the “concert on wheels” to anyone who has enough amp to drive them. That would take me full circle to a 12 channel dsp amp...

OK. The kicks get entirely new wiring and the dash uses what was wired to both dash and kicks.

Here is some follow up observations and results. Cranked while parked, this setup is a delight. It is loud enough to make conversation difficult. Bass delivers and the balance is great. The DSP does a great job in both Kicker units. Ease of setup and install are huge points for this build...

what is the newer version? Is it to deal with A2B stuff on newer radios? Second image is incorrect I think. Dash and Kicks are attached to the Key.

It’s amazing OEM assholery that we have to buy a hard copy.

Just for clarity… the speaker is actually in the instrument cluster. Anything passing through the stereo would be blasting loud.

I have not seen a PNP configured for bi-amp but some manufacturers would make money if they made one. Call it an enhanced version that is “mostly” plug and play.

I use Forscan to set the chimes to only use the cluster speaker. I had the same problem. Easy change resolved it entirely. Turn off the fake exhaust sounds while you are in there and you will get more perceived performance from the stereo as well.

I did a 6 when I bought mine. Still waiting on lights to arrive so I haven’t installed.

Assuming you mean you are now wired with amp 1 to dash and amp 2 to kicks. Did you set the dip switch for bi-amp mode? That enables crossovers. I use volume at 24 since I think that is closer to when the HU starts to distort. With gains all the way down use the Lab Grade Pink noise WAV...

Also, the Key 200 provides a remote out that should be used to trigger the key 500. DC offset will work but it has a delay on turn off that resulted in sub thumps. Remote from the 200.4 worked better and turned off in unison. So Using DC offset just on the Key 200 then remote wire to 500...

Additive Car Audio https://additivecaraudio.com/product-category/bronco6g/ The discount code BRONCO6G works too

I shouldn’t like this but I kinda do.

All told, the Key 500 install with Additve Audio 3d box and Kicker L7T 8” went pretty well. Taps off the factory sub harness gave good low level signals. Fitment is excellent. I put tons of deadener in the area with focus on any area the box might touch. now, I almost came on here to...

Here a couple of pictures of what my loop that returns the head unit power to the rear pods looks like on my harness now. There’s no reason to make a big loop so it’s only a couple of inches. There are proper crimp connectors under that. I just use cloth tape because it keeps the bundle tight.

@RagnarKon did exactly that way. Changing from parallel to series will change the ohms from 2 to 8. That will be a lighter load on the amp. However, there are major costs to that approach. As wired stock, the kick and dash split the power they receive. Using the key, that would mean at 4...

Here are the speaker rings if anyone was not sure what they look like.