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2.7 tuned will outperform the 2.3 tuned.

what are people running for programmer / tunes for the 24 and previous 2.3L now that they're out and liking? non procal that is

well it didnt dissuade. But rather provide exceptional detail into needs as well as assure me there are folks like yall out there who can help!

i guess im in the minority when I say this makes me want to pull the trigger just the same. was waiting on the Turn portals to be released.

those tires some lugs removed wheel that thing!

problaby not the issue but double check that the eibach top hat bolts are still seated fully. I had to tighten a few after I installed mine. that would present itself with very light bumps tho No clue on the diff drop. those things can be tricky if the angle is off. But I'd be looking at...

thanks for the feedback, if I pull the trigger I'll report back

they got the icon tubular UCAs for $741. I'd order direct from Icon but that's $100 less

whats up mooresville. huntersville here. get those installed. never seen peaks in person before. certainly curious how those ride. plenty of posts on here how to remove the OEMs. drop the LCAs by the way....

cut up a cheap boot tray to mate up with your rear seat floor liner but so that it fits under the front seats

huntersville (NC) ford has a couple for 78

I wouldnt be too worried about oil pressure at -15. My ass aint leaving the house if its that cold

a couple of mine are gouged up so I wouldnt care. But remove them. While it is correct that it is not needed to remove the tires, you're trusting someone to set the shoe or duckbill on the coates machine correctly. It's easy to remove, so just do it and don't deal with surprises.

agree with all the above. I'll add that after removing the wheel to get better access, support the shock and remove the bolt (maybe this was obvious). Then straighten it. I'd also start with attempting to pry it straight with some leverage before I busted out the sledge.

The cars I've driven / owned in my lifetime, I'd be really f'n obtuse to make more than a comment or two about the bronco's quirks. When I test drove mine (yall do that too right?) I knew this thing wasn't a cadillac or have the precision of a 90s lexus. Yet I signed the paperwork with a smile.

you're gunna want to run it to the kick panel (under steering wheel) fuse box. It's not terrible to do so, you can run it through the a-pillar without too much fuss. There you can grab 27 or 35

that, the soft top window, and the wolfox mirror all equate to no need for dimming

the soft top rear window is my auto-dimmer :wink:

true repair will be a bit pricey. lazy filler and paint repair less so. Put a "No Step" sticker there and move on with life.

could also check the oil in the front diff