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Short trip driving in winter condensation. It’s good to try to drive far enough to get to full operating temperature at least once a day to dry the condensation out. If your oil fill cap doesn’t the same way you’re probably fine. If it looks that way you need to drive further, take the long...

I put my own brake controller in. Took about an hour and I’m OCD. Probably could have done it in 30 minutes if I hurried.

I get that, but the manufacturer goes through exhaustive testing and certifying for emissions and fuel economy. Modifications that require changing tire size or gear ratios makes the federal certifications invalid. Not Ford’s idea or your dealer’s idea. It’s government mandates. The penalty...

The vehicle speed is more than just to drive the speedometer. The PCM and other modules use the data. Incorrect vehicle speed can affect transmission shift points, torque converter lock-up points, cruise control operation, collision avoidance systems, etc, etc. Nothing is simple any more.

Yep, it’s been 10 to 12 below zero here in KC for the last several days. It SUCKS.

EPA regulations, we’re no longer able to legally do anything that changes the original build “calibration “ for emissions and fuel economy ratings reasons.

It’s actually illegal to do that. Ford scan tools no longer have the option to change tire size or gear ratios. I think the Ford Racing tuner may be able to do it, but comes with the “Off Road Use Only” disclaimer. Forscan can do it without much trouble.

And a little an addition, Krytox is the best rubber lube you can get. It’s pricey, but a little goes a long way and it lasts for months. Easiest place to get it, unfortunately, is on Amazon.

All vehicles get a little noisy in extreme cold conditions. Lubing the weather seals with 303 or Krytox will help a bunch. When the top isn’t part of the body, there is going to be movement between the top and the body and the resulting squeaks from the harder rubber seals.

Moved mine from driver’s door and stuck it on inside of fuel door. Tacky looking problem solved!

I would recommend a good full synthetic. The PTU in our Fusion failed at 42k miles. The oil in it was a semi-solid, black, burnt, smelly mess. I replaced it and filled it with Amsoil 75W-90. I also drilled and tapped a drain hole in the case so the oil could be easily changed. Car has 85k...

Man, you’re lucky that didn’t burn your truck down or explode the battery and get acid everywhere. Unfortunately I’ve seen similar sloppy electrical work on Broncos that have come into our dealership service department. Nothing quite this serious, but sloppy.

Not arguing, but the GTs were on a chassis dyno, the whole drivetrain ran at full load, full speed multiple times. Those are 500k$ to 1M$+ cars, they wouldn’t be doing anything with them that would be harmful. Modern engines/drivetrains are light years ahead of the iron built in past.

I was lucky enough to see the assembly line for the new Ford GT several years ago. At the end of the line every one of those cars is strapped on a chassis dyno and run through all the gears at wide open throttle several times. The dyno display showed 200 MPH and over 7000 RPM. That was on...

First time out with 23 Badlands. Tin Cup Pass Colorado.

Beautiful video, well shot. Dedicated off roaders, shelf roads on wet snow looks pretty damn scary.

When someone who doesn’t really know what they are doing does modifications with questionable aftermarket parts………..

It looks like you’re going to need a new tire. It looks like the sidewall has a cut and a bulge.

It’s a twisted pair of wires that goes between both front door modules, the Blind Spot modules, the HVAC module, trailer module, and the Radio Transceiver module for the key fobs. Shouldn’t be too hard for a Ford tech to run down.