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I have a 23 Badlands 2DR Auto with 334A Lux vin and as built, and I'm using As Built Comparison to go line by line and decipher which is needed. Don't have Advanced Cruise, just adding the heated wheel to the High Package.

Thanks for weighing in, Meats. I'm not after the switch part numbers, looking for the correct values for the SCCM module to be entered in FORSCAN. Installed a heated wheel/clockspring/new HVAC and buttons aren't functioning until programmed. The dropdown in FORSCAN even in simple mode is still...

Yes, but not through anything OEM.

I mean, cool, but I woulda had money on you getting a set of kidney beans for your particular build over 6G takeoffs.

Installed the new clockspring for the heated wheel and none of the switches function yet. The Forscan easy mode for SCCM steering wheel right and left switches has a LOT of options, which are all part numbers. Anyone made edits to the SCCM module yet besides Papa Smurf?

Interesting, wonder how hard the DIC is to get out, I've already gone down to what felt like barebones for the heated wheel and CANopener installs...

Looks perfect, old school cool. I have the Slimlite LED KCs, which sadly do not have a good iconic KC smiley cover for them, so they get an amber lens cover for winter.

Yes, there's no need to leave it plugged in. I keep mine in my glovebox unless I'm using it. And my Banks iDash stays plugged into the OBDII port fulltime anyway.

Pretty sure Windows laptop is required. I'm not an Apple person, so I haven't researched their use. As for plugs, I bought this one.

There is only one line you HAVE to change in the as built for adding a sub/speakers. Some others are optional. Follow @RagnarKon 's video and you should be well prepared, as long as your OBDII plug is good to go.

Agree with the above. Installing the 4DTech CANopener give me no audio symptoms initially when the connection behind the HMI screen was not seated all the way. Fully reseating all connections got it back. Taking your dash down that far to check that connection isn't exactly for the faint of...

More aggressive? Yes, but not their most aggressive. The OG Scorpion AT was a BFG AT killer for me back in the day on my OG ZR2 S10. Heavy rain, mud, 12+ in of snow once, traction was there, just all around badass tire.

I don't have that, so that is helpful, thanks

I have both skinny and wide setups: 255/80R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3s and 315/70R17 Bridgestone Dueler AT3 REVO and use both year round in Alaska, including winters. There is not much of a noticeable difference, in 1'+ deep snow on/off-road or on ice covered roads, with maybe a slight edge in...

How bad was the leak? I have a seep on mine, looks like.

Don't know what that's about. I have a FitcamX front and rear. Only a small portion of the front cam housing is visible below the rear view mirror from eye level, not noticeable from the outside at all unless you know what to look for. My only complaint is my fault. I stuck the rear camera on...

EDIT: SEE POST BELOW If this is just resistive, I'm thinking the polarity of wire legs of the pigtail shouldn't matter, just in case which leg did you guys ground and which did you apply power? Got it all together except for the pigtail, which is C226 B, White Power and C226B Black Blue...

Not as far as I am aware. The clockspring carries the trigger wire from the HVAC switch. The pigtail from the back of the clockspring containing the power wire is just to provide power when commanded.

Finished my mirror upgrade and downgrade project. Removed the rusting Oracle mirror LEDs and converted to the Blumak mounts. So much cleaner work. Before: After: Passenger: Only possible improvement would be a clear lens cover for the @BajaDesigns S2s, that also works with the...

Oh, how nice. That should net them tens of sales.