Search results

Recently replaced this High Package Badlands 2DR HVAC module PN N2DT-18C612-CE with the heated wheel HVAC module. Excellent condition, wiped down with 303 and stored in bubble wrap in heated garage. Should be a direct upgrade for your COVID non-chipped temp readouts, but may require FORSCAN to...

Removed this for the heated wheel install. Immediately taped to prevent runaway spin. No heat circuit, but all others from High package with Lane Assist/Cruise/Audio/Voice Command. Part Number LV4T-14A664-BA

2023 excellent condition low-mileage leather non-heated steering wheel. No scratches or gouges. Replaced with OEM heated wheel, no longer need this.

Not a bad choice if you don't want to go in that A-pillar for sure. I would almost prefer a steering column cover mount down with the other gauges, but the A-pillar is where my LWN iDash lives, so I'm use to looking there anyway.

What fender flares are these? Don't think I've seen these before.

Not with just the iDash alone. That's not a Banks thing, it's a Ford thing. If you really are committed stubborn asf, Banks has a 4 port sensor manifold that plugs into the iDash. Running a 1/8 NPT temp sensor into the oilpan, and plumb a pressure sensor into the line, similar to what @SCB...

To answer my own question, the A-pillar vent grille is a SOB to get out and you'll probably break at least two tabs. If they are the top ones, though, it will still fit flush, by sliding the bottom in and gently bending the remaining retention tabs. View inside: Top two tabs broken when...

Heated steering wheel, closely followed by Mabett interior and footwell lighting.

Interesting, I went left. Mine is on the A-pillar. Tried 3M VHB and Gorilla tape. No dice, kept falling off. Ended up drilling it for a 3/16 stainless bolt, washers and nut. Finally unlocked trans gear this morning on the iDash Pro by selecting General Ford Vehicles in the settings. I gotta...

You can also buy a thinner fob from AJT Designs, colormatched to your rig.

Even with the replacement metal, the screws are rusting/oxidizing, so it's an all around lose/lose with these. This isn't even the worst one. Oracle customer service portal allowed one picture to upload and sent one replacement and had to pay for magnetic covers I didn't get as an early...

If you want to keep it around the same weight but different tire, the Bridgestone Dueler AT/3 REVOs are +4.2lb over those. From @CarbonSteel 's excellent 35" tire spreadsheet, pictured here from 0 to +10lb.

Almost like AI is worthless for technical info :unsure:

Polarity does matter, here is the pinout for the pigtail, shared by the incredibly helpful and responsive @Ducati1098 This is the last physical step to getting a heated wheel wired. Programming the SCCM, adding the HVAC and IPC values are also required to get the hard switch and indicator...

Somehow the new modules rewrote my asbuilt values? I went back in with the OG asbuilt values for the SCCM and tweaked some other modules and she's up and running. Realized you were right about the dropdowns being part numbers, so I edited my posts above. Interestingly, my switch part numbers...

Chasing programming gremlins after a heated wheel install, so I can relate to a ton of seemingly unrelated shit going haywire. And of course, I finish an install of some SS3 Pros only to find out they are two WILDLY different color temperatures because I bought them separately. @Diode Dynamics...

Had to rebuy OEM mirror caps after the Oracle bezels rusted to shit, so I know this pain, albeit less expensively.

With "free" warranty repairs being worse than the problem these days, I'd fix it myself or pull it all off and bedline it.

Is there anything special to resetting the codes in FORSCAN? What was the procedure you used?

Oh, interesting. Did you just swap your old button packs over to the new wheel? That's what I did.