2" Functional Lift for Non-SAS OBX

[Will05W]

Hi all, my fiance and I recently got a stock used non-SAS OBX 4dr that's a highway commuter vehicle but also an offroad toy for east coast mountain trail systems like AOAA, Rausch Creek, and FRO. After our first outing at AOAA on green trails Bootlegger and 102 (for those familiar), we realized we need a touch more ground clearance to confidently navigate the green trails in these parks. We did make the jump to 33's.

Were not looking for setups capable of highspeed offroading like you'd find outwest, these are slow 5-10 mph windy dirt trails with large patches of rocks up to 10" above grade level in some places. Were not trying to do any major rock crawling and probably wont venture on to blue trails.

I'm looking for options to gain the 2" of ground clearance that we want without compromising highway mannerisms (aside from the higher CoG), degrading ride quality in either the softer or firmer direction, and without increasing wear on the non-SAS steering, drive, and suspension components. Most importantly, I do not want any solution that increases the risk of any steering, suspension, or drive componts breaking when the suspension is fully compressed or completely unloaded (3 wheel situation). I really want a solution with no compromises in terms of stock offroad relability when pushing the suspension to its limits, this isnt for cosmetics.

What lift kits would be recommended to achieve this and what else would we need to upgrade to achive all of these goals? I'm also a little confused as to why people say that a spacer lift increases the chances of stock control arms, ball joints, and drive shafts, etc breaking when the suspension is pushed to its limits while offroading, but installing coilovers that are 2" longer doesn't pose the same risks.

I'm also not looking to spend more than I have to.

Thank you!

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[GI_Jo_Nathan]

You're going to get a ton of recommendations, but mine personally is if you can get a really good deal on SAS struts, or non-sas Badlands takeoffs, and do a 1-in perch collar in the front. I think that would probably put you where you want to be. This will actually improve the mannerisms on and off-road. My other option would be a set of 6112 and you can adjust the lift, I just couldn't speak to how good those are with your stock springs. Might be best with SAS Springs but I really don't know.

 

[Will05W]

You're going to get a ton of recommendations, but mine personally is if you can get a really good deal on SAS struts, or non-sas Badlands takeoffs, and do a 1-in perch collar in the front. I think that would probably put you where you want to be. This will actually improve the mannerisms on and off-road. My other option would be a set of 6112 and you can adjust the lift, I just couldn't speak to how good those are with your stock springs. Might be best with SAS Springs but I really don't know.

Thanks for the recommendation! I thought about getting the SAS takeoffs or just trying a 1" leveling kit to see where that gets us before going in on a full 2" lift, but both of those options go back to my concerns about breaking the non-sas OBX control arms, ball joints, tie rods, etc when the suspension is fully compressed or fully extended.

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

Thanks for the recommendation! I thought about getting the SAS takeoffs or just trying a 1" leveling kit to see where that gets us before going in on a full 2" lift, but both of those options go back to my concerns about breaking the non-sas OBX control arms, ball joints, tie rods, etc when the suspension is fully compressed or fully extended.

Upper control arms are all the same and the tie rods are the same as the old ones so believe me they have been stress tested for normal wear and tear. If you stay away from spacer lifts you shouldn't be able to hurt anything. And honestly the stock hitachis are not worth the effort of installing perch collars.

 

[Oldhippie]

Sasquatch has the same control arms, ball joints, tie rods (unless ya get hoss 3 rack) as your non Sasquatch OBX…the driveline difference is the the front differential and axles on the Sasquatch is stronger and of course lockers… any kind of lift (except body lift) increases running cv and tie rod angles (wear) the same…a 2” or less lift is pretty safe & will not max out the angles on droop/compression…if you are happy with your ride/handling a spacer lift is an exceptable option…if ya want better ride/handling new coilovers are in order…there are many options and I am no expert on them and since ya don’t want to go “all in”, I am happy with my procomps but good low cost option would be to find some takeoff hoss 3 (fox) ones and maybe add a level kit…also many are happy with the other aftermarket popular options…I would say most all the aftermarket options will be better than what ya have…Good luck!

 

[Brian_B]

Five basic types of lift

Bigger tires. This is your first go-to, because it raises all components equally, including the axles and suspension. Larger sizes will need to greatly consider wheel offset and weight. Add weight and circumfrence, which will reduce acceleration, add more resistance to turning, and could affect your shock/springs.

Spring lift (stiffer springs, usually with better suspension). Makes the body ride higher, but your pumpkin and suspension mounts are still going to be in the same place. No effect on axle angles. If you are adjusting existing springs it does affect ride quality, as you are adjusting the pre-load on the spring. Requires alignment afterwards (and possibly UCAs)

Shock Spacer lift (tophats that go on top of the shock towers) - This will affect your axle angle significantly and can risk CVs and/or tie rods. Ok in small doses if you just need a little bit to clear tires (up to about 2" on the Bronco). No effect on pumpkin/suspension mount height. Very inexpensive to buy, but requires almost complete removal of the shocks to install - so labor isn't really any different than doing new coilovers. Requires alignment afterwards (and possibly UCAs)

Body Lift - Has no effect on axle angles/CVs. Can leave a gap between bumper and body panels. No effect on pumpkin/suspension mount height, won't affect suspension at all (alignment/UCAs). Easiest/cheapest type of lift to install.

Portals - Most expensive and maintenance intensive type of lift there is. Will also increase your width and affect steering. Adds a good deal of height and raises all components equally. Can lower gear ratio as well.


The advice I've been given is two-fold, and I've found them both to be true:
- There is no substitute for bigger tires.
- The bigger the tire, the bigger the headaches - Broncos do up to 35 pretty much stock, 37s are a easy stretch with some minor modification, and I've heard of up to 42 with a good bit of work

The other bit of advice I'd have for someone would be - only lift as much as you need to fit your tires . Enough lift to prevent them from rubbing anything when fully stuffed and turning in either direction is usually the biggest constraint.

Any lift beyond that doesn't improve your overall flex, could put the shock in a bad position for g-outs, could overextend CVs on max droop, and raises your CoG even further than required. While it does get some things out of the way (bumper, fuel tank etc) it doesn't change a lot of the low-hanging components like the pumpkin or suspension mounts or frame-mounted sliders.

I'm a fan of the "little bit of everything" approach. Bigger tires (which the OP did), then better suspension to fit them, then a little bit of tophat and/or body lift if needed to finish it up or get things leveled out. For 33's -- you don't really ~need~ any lift to keep the tires from rubbing anything.

Bigger obstacles, you want to make sure you are putting your tire on it and drive straight over it, and not trying to straddle them - use your tires for extra lift, and if the obstacle is pretty big, that's why rock sliders exist - let the Bronco come down on the slider and push on through until your back tire gets on it and goes over.

 

[Oldhippie]

Five basic types of lift

Spring lift (stiffer springs, usually with better suspension). Makes the body ride higher, but your pumpkin and suspension mounts are still going to be in the same place. No effect on axle angles. If you are adjusting existing springs it does affect ride quality, as you are adjusting the pre-load on the spring. Requires alignment afterwards (and possibly UCAs)

Shock Spacer lift (tophats that go on top of the shock towers) - This will affect your axle angle significantly and can risk CVs and/or tie rods. Ok in small doses if you just need a little bit to clear tires (up to about 2" on the Bronco). No effect on pumpkin/suspension mount height. Very inexpensive to buy, but requires almost complete removal of the shocks to install - so labor isn't really any different than doing new coilovers. Requires alignment afterwards (and possibly UCAs)

Nice post and I totally agree with most all of it…except your statement “spring”/coilover lift “ Makes the body ride higher, but your pumpkin and suspension mounts are still going to be in the same place. No effect on axle angles.”
not only does to raise the body but also the frame and the frame mounting points (suspendtion Lifts all raise the frame mounts higher in relation to the wheel centerline) while the axle/knuckle mounts do remain the same in relation to wheel centerline the cv and tie rod angle does increase (just like a spacer lift)…pretty sure this is correct…but I’m just an old mechanic…

 

[Brian_B]

Nice post and I totally agree with most all of it…except your statement “spring”/coilover lift “ Makes the body ride higher, but your pumpkin and suspension mounts are still going to be in the same place. No effect on axle angles.”
not only does to raise the body but also the frame and the frame mounting points (suspendtion Lifts all raise the frame mounts higher in relation to the wheel centerline) while the axle/knuckle mounts do remain the same in relation to wheel centerline the cv and tie rod angle does increase (just like a spacer lift)…pretty sure this is correct…but I’m just an old mechanic…

I’ve had too many beers to form a counter argument - but you are probably spot on.

 

[Brian_B]

Now I know what I meant!

The CV angles ~at full extension or compression~ won’t change with spring lift. You are just changing where the spring sits normally. So yes, the nominal “riding height” angle will change a bit, but the critical min/max points (the spots that tend to wreck CVs) do not.

But they absolutely will with spacer lift. You are shifting everything on the shock tower downward with relation to the body.

 

[87-Z28]

Any lift that increases shock length at ride height will necessarily increase CV angles since LCA angles increase. This includes spacers, spring preload, and increased spring rates. The difference between using springs to obtain lift vs spacers is the max LCA angles at full extension. Spacers will produce greater angles at full droop. And hence greater CV angles at full droop.

 

[Oldhippie]

Ok that is correct but a different explanation (ride height vs max droop/compression)…as long as coilover stroke up/down remains constant…I will also go out a limb and say less than a 2” spacer lift on a bronco keeps the cv in the “safe“ (non binding) zone at full droop…party on!

 

[Brian_B]

Ok that is correct but a different explanation (ride height vs max droop/compression)…as long as coilover stroke up/down remains constant…I will also go out a limb and say less than a 2” spacer lift on a bronco keeps the cv in the “safe“ (non binding) zone at full droop…party on!

Yup that's kinda been the consensus. Tophats are ok up until you hit about 2", then you start getting into the danger zone.

 

[Felix808]

Any lift that increases shock length at ride height will necessarily increase CV angles since LCA angles increase. This includes spacers, spring preload, and increased spring rates. The difference between using springs to obtain lift vs spacers is the max LCA angles at full extension. Spacers will produce greater angles at full droop. And hence greater CV angles at full droop.

With the exceptions of a perch collar spacer lift which adds pre-load to the spring to gain lift but does not change the mounting position of the shock/coil over preventing over extension. However, the CV's will gain more degree of angle than they normally would, but it is working within the design of the original suspension

 

[Will05W]

Five basic types of lift

Bigger tires. This is your first go-to, because it raises all components equally, including the axles and suspension. Larger sizes will need to greatly consider wheel offset and weight. Add weight and circumfrence, which will reduce acceleration, add more resistance to turning, and could affect your shock/springs.

Spring lift (stiffer springs, usually with better suspension). Makes the body ride higher, but your pumpkin and suspension mounts are still going to be in the same place. No effect on axle angles. If you are adjusting existing springs it does affect ride quality, as you are adjusting the pre-load on the spring. Requires alignment afterwards (and possibly UCAs)

Shock Spacer lift (tophats that go on top of the shock towers) - This will affect your axle angle significantly and can risk CVs and/or tie rods. Ok in small doses if you just need a little bit to clear tires (up to about 2" on the Bronco). No effect on pumpkin/suspension mount height. Very inexpensive to buy, but requires almost complete removal of the shocks to install - so labor isn't really any different than doing new coilovers. Requires alignment afterwards (and possibly UCAs)

Body Lift - Has no effect on axle angles/CVs. Can leave a gap between bumper and body panels. No effect on pumpkin/suspension mount height, won't affect suspension at all (alignment/UCAs). Easiest/cheapest type of lift to install.

Portals - Most expensive and maintenance intensive type of lift there is. Will also increase your width and affect steering. Adds a good deal of height and raises all components equally. Can lower gear ratio as well.


The advice I've been given is two-fold, and I've found them both to be true:
- There is no substitute for bigger tires.
- The bigger the tire, the bigger the headaches - Broncos do up to 35 pretty much stock, 37s are a easy stretch with some minor modification, and I've heard of up to 42 with a good bit of work

The other bit of advice I'd have for someone would be - only lift as much as you need to fit your tires . Enough lift to prevent them from rubbing anything when fully stuffed and turning in either direction is usually the biggest constraint.

Any lift beyond that doesn't improve your overall flex, could put the shock in a bad position for g-outs, could overextend CVs on max droop, and raises your CoG even further than required. While it does get some things out of the way (bumper, fuel tank etc) it doesn't change a lot of the low-hanging components like the pumpkin or suspension mounts or frame-mounted sliders.

I'm a fan of the "little bit of everything" approach. Bigger tires (which the OP did), then better suspension to fit them, then a little bit of tophat and/or body lift if needed to finish it up or get things leveled out. For 33's -- you don't really ~need~ any lift to keep the tires from rubbing anything.

Bigger obstacles, you want to make sure you are putting your tire on it and drive straight over it, and not trying to straddle them - use your tires for extra lift, and if the obstacle is pretty big, that's why rock sliders exist - let the Bronco come down on the slider and push on through until your back tire gets on it and goes over.

thank you very much for the info! Can you help me understand why doing a 2” spacer lift on the stock coil overs can push CV and tie rods into situations where they could fail, but going with coil overs that are 2” longer to achieve the same effect doesn’t carry the same risk?

 

[Oldhippie]

thank you very much for the info! Can you help me understand why doing a 2” spacer lift on the stock coil overs can push CV and tie rods into situations where they could fail, but going with coil overs that are 2” longer to achieve the same effect doesn’t carry the same risk?

it is all about max droop…while at ride height the angles increase the same amount but a spacer will lower the shock/coilover allowing the axle to droop more than stock and put the cv angle out of spec…generally a 2” spacer lift is the limit on a bronco

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