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Hi guys. New to the forum. Which cold air intake system do you recommend? S&B , K&N or AFE?
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Cold Air Intake System - best recommendations? S&B, K&N or AFE?
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Out of those, S&B. Functional, easy on the wallet, best looking in my opinion. We just installed one on our other bronco. I see you’re in a Raptor, but we got huge gains on our shop bronco with the S&B paired with the Ford tune as well.
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Stock. It flows plenty of air and has great filtration. If you want more performance the best bang for the buck is a tune. "High flow" filters make a compromise between filtration and performance. The only way to get more air flow is to lessen restrictions (less filtration) or increase volume (filter size). K&M is the most popular and it's the one I have seen most independent ISO5011 filtration testing on. K&N consistently finishes at the bottom, dramatically at the bottom for filtration when compared to traditional paper elements. They do provide the best cfm thru the filter however, that claim is true. If longevity of your engine is a concern, I'd stay away. Just my observations.
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What are you seeing as a difference between ambient and inlet air temp?Out of those, S&B. Functional, easy on the wallet, best looking in my opinion. We just installed one on our other bronco. I see you’re in a Raptor, but we got huge gains on our shop bronco with the S&B paired with the Ford tune as well.
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My wife decided she wanted a cold air intake on her '23 I looked at many options. Chose to go with the Injen intake. Best bang for the buck so to speak as you're getting new intake piping down to the turbos and a nice look.
https://injen.com/i-30499016-injen-evolution-cold-air-intake-system-oiled-air-filter-evo9302c.html
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Same hereMy wife decided she wanted a cold air intake on her '23 I looked at many options. Chose to go with the Injen intake. Best bang for the buck so to speak as you're getting new intake piping down to the turbos and a nice look.
https://injen.com/i-30499016-injen-evolution-cold-air-intake-system-oiled-air-filter-evo9302c.html
I still want to see one of us do an independent dyno run, swapping out the intake while the Braptor is still tied down to eliminate any variables from strap tension.
I did this on another make/model with a very, very expensive intake ($2600) and I made more hp with the stock airbox and K&N filters. I ran the aftermarket version first, then the stock intake, so no one would complain the aftermarket run was heat soaked. And I did it on two different dynamometers with the same basic result.
With 70% of intake restriction being in the cylinder heads, I don't think any airbox is going to make a difference from a flow and performance standpoint. But prove me wrong as I'd love some hp gains in something that's easily swappable for those of us who have extended warranties.
I did this on another make/model with a very, very expensive intake ($2600) and I made more hp with the stock airbox and K&N filters. I ran the aftermarket version first, then the stock intake, so no one would complain the aftermarket run was heat soaked. And I did it on two different dynamometers with the same basic result.
With 70% of intake restriction being in the cylinder heads, I don't think any airbox is going to make a difference from a flow and performance standpoint. But prove me wrong as I'd love some hp gains in something that's easily swappable for those of us who have extended warranties.
Absolutely fantastic. There are few if any modern performance oriented vehicles where one can get any significant (i.e. beyond measurement deviations) via an intake box. I keep preaching on this, but it won't stick...
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Unless you’re running at wide open throttle on a dyno, you won’t notice any difference, and even then the difference will be very tiny. I would save your money.
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Modern performance cars have "cold air intakes" as stock, since they pull air from the grille, not the engine compartment. In fact, a lot of the intakes I've looked at for previous cars are worse for air temp, not better. Best you can do is improve flow. And if you ever plan to take your Bronco off road, stick with a paper filter.
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Sb. you can maintenace the filter without takeing the whole thing appart. its been a while and i dont recall where i saw it, but the dry filter having better filtration specs than the oiled
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Hey there! Welcome to the Forum!
There's ALOT of useful info on here along with some really helpful members.
When it comes to the intakes; truthfully they're all great options.
What are you looking for in an intake? Best price? Most " performance " ?
Be more than happy to help here at www.lethalperformance.com! We've got so many different things for this platform and constantly updating.
Feel free to reach out and I'll be glad to help! Thanks!
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There is a reason that DoYouBronco hasn't responded, and it is because they have no data to back up their claims. Your money is best spent elsewhere, there is no performance gain from a CAI.
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So somebody school me like I'm 5: aren't they all CAI? Even the factory setup?
My factory 2.7 is bringing air in from outside the engine compartment. Ergo, it's a CAI.
This is compared to many pedestrian cars, which bring air in from the hot engine compartment. In those cases, I can understand wanting to switch intakes to change them to CAI. But that's not the case with the Bronco. We already have CAI.
Therefore, any change in air intakes is not dramatic in the way that changing from under the hood to outside the engine compartment is. Or am I missing something?
My factory 2.7 is bringing air in from outside the engine compartment. Ergo, it's a CAI.
This is compared to many pedestrian cars, which bring air in from the hot engine compartment. In those cases, I can understand wanting to switch intakes to change them to CAI. But that's not the case with the Bronco. We already have CAI.
Therefore, any change in air intakes is not dramatic in the way that changing from under the hood to outside the engine compartment is. Or am I missing something?
It's embarrassing but I haven't even looked....do we have a mass airflow MAF or a speed density system with a MAP sensor? I have no plans to tune so I purposely don't look to avoid temptation. When you work with/on cars all the time, sometimes you neglect your own.
I tune (other cars) and you'd never want to alter the temp sensor reading the ECU sees in order to affect and trick another engine parameter into doing what you need (I know, JB4). That's someone that either doesn't know where to look or doesn't know what table they're reading and how to adjust things like injector pulse, cam phase or timing advance or a myriad of other parameters to increase performance.
I can show a 10hp gain on an identical car just by adjusting the tire's air pressure or loosening the straps a bit. There's lots of ways to goose dyno readings in either direction. As the tires heat up and tire pressure is increased, subsequent runs will show hp gains. If the car has been sitting on the dyno for some time, hot, subsequent runs will show gains as the ingested cool air will begin to cool down the intake system. And then there's the entire calibration and condition of the dyno, correction factors, manipulation of barometric data, etc...
The largest restriction is in the head, the intake runner and valve itself. You can affect power band and transit response with different intake designs for sure but I'm willing to bet the factory got it right from the start as they use very sophisticated tools to test things like resonant tuning, airbox volume, boundary flow in relation to tube size and taper, etc...and if we have a MAF, that's the second "biggest" restriction and you're pretty much forced to match the factory specs on that unless you tune for it.
And we have turbos which is another huge ball of wax if you sit down and think about pressure readings pre and post compressor and how the system likely compensates to maintain target boost levels. And then there's the intercooler. It's definitely a rabbit hole.
If the aftermarket intakes offer filters with a much larger surface area, I'd say go for it but it isn't going to add hp when comparing new filter to new filter.
I tune (other cars) and you'd never want to alter the temp sensor reading the ECU sees in order to affect and trick another engine parameter into doing what you need (I know, JB4). That's someone that either doesn't know where to look or doesn't know what table they're reading and how to adjust things like injector pulse, cam phase or timing advance or a myriad of other parameters to increase performance.
I can show a 10hp gain on an identical car just by adjusting the tire's air pressure or loosening the straps a bit. There's lots of ways to goose dyno readings in either direction. As the tires heat up and tire pressure is increased, subsequent runs will show hp gains. If the car has been sitting on the dyno for some time, hot, subsequent runs will show gains as the ingested cool air will begin to cool down the intake system. And then there's the entire calibration and condition of the dyno, correction factors, manipulation of barometric data, etc...
The largest restriction is in the head, the intake runner and valve itself. You can affect power band and transit response with different intake designs for sure but I'm willing to bet the factory got it right from the start as they use very sophisticated tools to test things like resonant tuning, airbox volume, boundary flow in relation to tube size and taper, etc...and if we have a MAF, that's the second "biggest" restriction and you're pretty much forced to match the factory specs on that unless you tune for it.
And we have turbos which is another huge ball of wax if you sit down and think about pressure readings pre and post compressor and how the system likely compensates to maintain target boost levels. And then there's the intercooler. It's definitely a rabbit hole.
If the aftermarket intakes offer filters with a much larger surface area, I'd say go for it but it isn't going to add hp when comparing new filter to new filter.
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