OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #16
Holy moly, talk about a score and a half! They clearly didn't know what they were selling!
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Naw, they have wayyyy toooo many parts to give a shit...
I'll add that the positive side is noted on the plug in picture...and the #1 outfitter switch is yellow wire.
plugs can be found on eBay also.
Super easy swap on our Wildtrak...love that you can activate at any speed any mode.
plugs can be found on eBay also.
Super easy swap on our Wildtrak...love that you can activate at any speed any mode.
- First Name
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Got the parts ordered! Looking forward to making my own WildLands BadTrak!
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I did this about a month ago (still need to actually mount the switch somewhere) and am very happy with the results! Thanks for the video!
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OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #23
I honestly don't remember the gauge, I just matched the size of the existing wiring. As for length, whatever it took to get there, which could change a lot depending on how you route things. It's not far though. I think i only used less than 2'of fire sleeve. Just enough to cover the area near the exhaust.
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Just ordered! I didn't get BigMeat's price but it will be worth it. The part number has changed from MB3Z5482C to MB3Z5482X. Thank you for this write up and video!!
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Just some food for thought on another poster's wiring change. I think it makes a lot of sense.
He believes that the solenoids should be powered in series so they are at 6V instead of parlallel 12V each and they wont get as hot. I plan on changing my wiring as soon as I have some time, should be a quick change. Thoughts??
Here is his post:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...echnical-information.5659/page-6#post-2255825
He believes that the solenoids should be powered in series so they are at 6V instead of parlallel 12V each and they wont get as hot. I plan on changing my wiring as soon as I have some time, should be a quick change. Thoughts??
Here is his post:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...echnical-information.5659/page-6#post-2255825
OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #27
Very interesting. If it works, it works. I love it when people dig deeper, especially since the manufacturers rarely share this info.
I found some time, lol, only took about 30min. I rewired it to be wire1 to aux switch, 2&3 tied together, 4 to ground. Works fine.
Installed the Ford Disconnecting sway-bar on Aux switch 1 last night for the Wildtrack (Wildlands?). I'm not any kind of mechanic but it works great thanks to the instructions in this and a few other threads. Installation took me about 6 hours, I'm sure a good mechanic could do it in 2.
The hardset part was probably getting to the upper stabilizer-bar-link nuts that are torqued to 122 ft lbs and have that threaded allan key post. It was hard to get an impact on them to loosen. Ford says you're not supposed to resuse any of the hardware (nuts, threaded posts) but I did. My calibrated torque wrench only gotes to 100 so when reinstalling the 122 ft-lbs speced stabilizer bar link nuts I used 100 and gave it a few last oogaboogas. Since I was just using jack stands, not a lift, using a long wrench was tricky. I had to disconnect the links with the sway bar and then reattach the links to the electronic sway bar before installing it.
For me, the other sneaky part was that the electronic sway bar really doesn't make any noise or do anything noticeable if you try to test it out in the garage on level ground, so I thought I didn't do the wiring correctly until I took it outside and actually found a side-hill to mess around on. I did wire the solenoids in series and it works well. I used the recommended harness and Ford factory skid plate.
If you get the ford plate don't forget to order hardware like I did, it doesn't come with any mounting bolts; luckily I had 3 extra bolts lying arouind so I could still install the skid with 75% of the bolts and will pick up the last one tomorrow. Or just get an SFR transmission plate!
The hardset part was probably getting to the upper stabilizer-bar-link nuts that are torqued to 122 ft lbs and have that threaded allan key post. It was hard to get an impact on them to loosen. Ford says you're not supposed to resuse any of the hardware (nuts, threaded posts) but I did. My calibrated torque wrench only gotes to 100 so when reinstalling the 122 ft-lbs speced stabilizer bar link nuts I used 100 and gave it a few last oogaboogas. Since I was just using jack stands, not a lift, using a long wrench was tricky. I had to disconnect the links with the sway bar and then reattach the links to the electronic sway bar before installing it.
For me, the other sneaky part was that the electronic sway bar really doesn't make any noise or do anything noticeable if you try to test it out in the garage on level ground, so I thought I didn't do the wiring correctly until I took it outside and actually found a side-hill to mess around on. I did wire the solenoids in series and it works well. I used the recommended harness and Ford factory skid plate.
If you get the ford plate don't forget to order hardware like I did, it doesn't come with any mounting bolts; luckily I had 3 extra bolts lying arouind so I could still install the skid with 75% of the bolts and will pick up the last one tomorrow. Or just get an SFR transmission plate!
Last edited:
Whats the part number for the ford skid plate and extra fasteners?Installed the Ford Disconnecting sway-bar on Aux switch 1 last night for the Wildtrack (Wildlands?). I'm not any kind of mechanic but it works great thanks to the instructions in this and a few other threads. Installation took me about 6 hours, I'm sure a good mechanic could do it in 2.
The hardset part was probably getting to the upper stabilizer-bar-link nuts that are torqued to 122 ft lbs and have that threaded allan key post. It was hard to get an impact on them to loosen. Ford says you're not supposed to resuse any of the hardware (nuts, threaded posts) but I did. My calibrated torque wrench only gotes to 100 so when reinstalling the 122 ft-lbs speced stabilizer bar link nuts I used 100 and gave it a few last oogaboogas. Since I was just using jack stands, not a lift, using a long wrench was tricky. I had to disconnect the links with the sway bar and then reattach the links to the electronic sway bar before installing it.
For me, the other sneaky part was that the electronic sway bar really doesn't make any noise or do anything noticeable if you try to test it out in the garage on level ground, so I thought I didn't do the wiring correctly until I took it outside and actually found a side-hill to mess around on. I did wire the solenoids in series and it works well. I used the recommended harness and Ford factory skid plate.
If you get the ford plate don't forget to order hardware like I did, it doesn't come with any mounting bolts; luckily I had 3 extra bolts lying arouind so I could still install the skid with 75% of the bolts and will pick up the last one tomorrow. Or just get an SFR transmission plate!
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