2025 2.3 oil filter change from pre-2025 (FL-2127 and FL-500S both fit)

[SandyDog]

Thank you for posting this. Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Oreily all say the FL-2127 doesn't fit so they clearly haven't got the memo about Fords engine changes yet.

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[broncobase1]

A higher bypass valve rating would mean that it would require more pressure to go into bypass, aka very thick oil with high RPMs at startup, which equates to higher oil pressure. Numerous studies have shown that bypass events happen far less often than previously believed, particularly when the correct viscosity oil is chosen for the ambient temperatures.

I would not worry about bypass events unless the vehicle is being started/operated at extremely cold ambient temperatures. As long as either of the filters meets the requirements, either should be fine.

That said, I would search for a compatible filter with 100% synthetic filter media instead of the cellulose media that Motorcraft typically uses so that I could have the most efficient filter possible.

I think people over think oil filters. I've been using "cheap" oil filters (The Frams everyone loves to hate) for decades. My Pontiac Vibe has 160K miles. I recently replaced the intake manifold and the valve chamber looks like new, virtually zero sludge. Maybe if you change oil at 10K it might make a difference. At 5K or less paying $15.00 for an oil filter is a waste of money.

 

[eighty6gt]

confirm the oil pan is nice gorgeous aluminum? I want to put a pan heater on my bronco!

 

[Rivers90]

confirm the oil pan is nice gorgeous aluminum? I want to put a pan heater on my bronco!

Yes aluminum. First photo in this post is the drain plug going into the pan.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...2127-and-fl-500s-both-fit.117161/post-2563704

 

[CarbonSteel]

I think people over think oil filters. I've been using "cheap" oil filters (The Frams everyone loves to hate) for decades. My Pontiac Vibe has 160K miles. I recently replaced the intake manifold and the valve chamber looks like new, virtually zero sludge. Maybe if you change oil at 10K it might make a difference. At 5K or less paying $15.00 for an oil filter is a waste of money.

It just depends. Oil filters have little to do with preventing sludge—that is 100% the responsibility of the oil, the oil change intervals, and the operating conditions.

That said, in turbocharged engines—whether you're running a single or twin turbo—filter choice—both oil and especially air—becomes more important. Turbos spin at extremely high RPMs, and even small amounts of metal, silicon, or dirt can wear out the bearings over time. Most Motorcraft filters that have been tested are in the 80% @ 20um efficiency range. To your point, the cheapest FRAM (Extra Guard--orange can) has an efficiency rating of 95% at 20um.

Speaking only for me, that is not good enough and I want the highest efficiency filter within a reasonable cost range that I can find. Ergo, it means something on the order of >99% @ 20um.

For others, it may not matter--especially those who lease or trade vehicles frequently. The good news is there are filters on the market to fit nearly any use case and need.

 

[eighty6gt]

I wonder what a good filter brand is!

 

[Pokey_Cacti]

Fram has a similar "quick change" drain plug replacement: Amazon.com: FRAM SD3 SureDrain Fast Access Oil Change Drain Plug System : Automotive

 

[GoHack]

I just brought my new 2025 Bronco Badlands in for its first oil change at 1000 miles today.
It has the 2.3L 4-cylinder engine w/the 7 speed M/T.
Its DOM is 06/20/25.

I had gone and bought a NAPA Gold/Wix oil filter for it.

When changing the oil/filter at the dealer, I was notified that Ford had changed the oil filter to that of the FL-2127.
The OEM from the factory on it is the FoMoCo P/N 9C2E 6714 CA.

Great, I have a couple of Amsoil Oil Filters on order w/some oil, for my next oil change.

 

[GoHack]

More info on the new or updated 2.3L I4 engine:

2025 Ford Ranger Gains All-New 2.3L EcoBoost I4 Engine: Exclusive

Quote: "Ford Authority has confirmed with Ford Truck Communications Manager Dawn McKenzie that the 2025 Ford Ranger features the “all-new” 2.3L modular power cylinder EcoBoost engine, which has already landed in a couple of other Blue Oval models. That list includes the new S650-generation Ford Mustang that debuted for the 2024 model year, as well as the refreshed 2025 Ford Explorer.

Unfortunately, Ford hasn’t shared any detailed technical specifications outlining what makes the new 2.3L EcoBoost engine different from the old one, but we do know that it utilizes Ford’s Modular Power Cylinder (MPC) Engine Architecture, with features including a dual fuel system, port fuel injection, and a 350 bar direct injection setup designed to optimize performance, fuel efficiency, and reduce carbon emissions. Additionally, the revamped 2.3L I-4 EcoBoost gets a new, twin scroll, low-inertia turbocharger with a high speed electronic wastegate, compact variable cam timing (VCT), an integrated air induction system, and an integrated hot side exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system."

It's said to be an “all-new” 2.3L modular power cylinder EcoBoost engine

The 2025 Broncos are said to have the same new engine.
The positive, the Dual Fuel Injection System, port fuel injection and direct injection.

I just bought a new 2025 Bronco w/the 2.3L, I4 engine, w/the 7-speed manual transmission.
Up to this point, the 2.3L seemed to be Ford's most reliable engine, but here we go w/a new engine, either entirely, or updated.
Sadly, like always, the customer is the Guinea Pig.

 

[OverBudget]

From what I've been able to find so far on this engine is, bore size lowered to 84mm from 87.5, stroke increased to 102mm from 94, compression ratio raised to 10.6:1, valve train changed from cam over bucket to finger followers. I haven't opened one up to know if all that's true for sure, and haven't really seen any online opened up to 100% confirm either. Aside from that there's the obvious external stuff like the port injection and full electric wastegate actuator, different alternator location etc.

I just went through the same ordeal as everyone else with the filter, thought I was good to go with the filters I had on hand that fit the previous engine, didn't even think to check if they changed that, ended up using the fl500s in place of the fl2127 because it's what was available in stock at the auto parts store. I'll be on the hunt for something else for the next change, would like something better efficiency.


Only hopes I have now are that Ford at least kept the core developments they had with the previous 2.3 that made it relatively reliable and built on it vs scrapping the engineering from that engine and starting fresh. Thank goodness for a warranty though I guess

 

[GoHack]

It just depends. Oil filters have little to do with preventing sludge—that is 100% the responsibility of the oil, the oil change intervals, and the operating conditions.

That said, in turbocharged engines—whether you're running a single or twin turbo—filter choice—both oil and especially air—becomes more important. Turbos spin at extremely high RPMs, and even small amounts of metal, silicon, or dirt can wear out the bearings over time. Most Motorcraft filters that have been tested are in the 80% @ 20um efficiency range. To your point, the cheapest FRAM (Extra Guard--orange can) has an efficiency rating of 95% at 20um.

Speaking only for me, that is not good enough and I want the highest efficiency filter within a reasonable cost range that I can find. Ergo, it means something on the order of >99% @ 20um.

For others, it may not matter--especially those who lease or trade vehicles frequently. The good news is there are filters on the market to fit nearly any use case and need.

If people are going to spend the money on good oil in their engines, why not do the same w/the oil filter as well?
There are more than enough studies as to who makes a good oil filter.
At the very least people, use an OEM filter (Motorcraft).

Having seen the cut-a-ways of Fram oil filters w/their glued-on cardboards ends, no thanks.
I've also talked to too many mechanics over the years when it came to the issues that they have encountered w/them. That being the Fram filter core disintegrating in the engine.

The turbos especially need to be cared for by using Full Synthetic oil.
The turbos spin at several thousands of rpms, as well as get extremely hot.
Too many label their oil as Full Synthetic, when in fact they are nothing more than cracked mineral based oil.
Again, at the very least, use an OEM Full Synthetic oil, (Motorcraft).

When it comes to who makes the best oil filters as well as Synthetic engine oils, there's more than enough studies and opinions out there.

 

[GoHack]

From what I've been able to find so far on this engine is, bore size lowered to 84mm from 87.5, stroke increased to 102mm from 94, compression ratio raised to 10.6:1, valve train changed from cam over bucket to finger followers. I haven't opened one up to know if all that's true for sure, and haven't really seen any online opened up to 100% confirm either. Aside from that there's the obvious external stuff like the port injection and full electric wastegate actuator, different alternator location etc.

I just went through the same ordeal as everyone else with the filter, thought I was good to go with the filters I had on hand that fit the previous engine, didn't even think to check if they changed that, ended up using the fl500s in place of the fl2127 because it's what was available in stock at the auto parts store. I'll be on the hunt for something else for the next change, would like something better efficiency.


Only hopes I have now are that Ford at least kept the core developments they had with the previous 2.3 that made it relatively reliable and built on it vs scrapping the engineering from that engine and starting fresh. Thank goodness for a warranty though I guess

One positive w/the new 2.3L it is both Direct and Port Fuel Injected vs. the older 2.3L being Direct.
There should be less issues, if any w/carbon buildup.

.

 

[LSW]

Caveat to all this; I'm aware it's nerdy, and you will probably crash or rust out your Bronco before the wear difference in these filters makes a tangible difference in maintenance.

The filter companies are in a race to the bottom and it seems to vary from month to month who has cheapened their design or had a major lapse in quality control. There are only a handful of suppliers that make the filters for everyone else’s brands: First Brands, Mann & Hummel (the present supplier of Motorcraft filters), and Premium Guard.

Mann and Hummel (Motorcraft/Purolator): Poor Efficiency they won't even publish out of shame. 99% at 46 microns (50% at 22 microns LOL) for the top of the line "Purolator BOSS". Metal core louvers not fully opened. Sloppy glue. Uneven/torn media pleats. It's doubtful the Motorcraft is any better than 99% at 30 microns as that is what the "Purolator One/PureOne" Filter specifies and AFAIK is the highest efficiency M&H filter.

First brands (Fram): leaking leaf spring/bypass valves. Basically allows unfiltered oil that has washed down the dirty side of the media back into the engine. Sloppy glue, uneven pleats. They had a great filter with the original Ultras and Titaniums then chepeaned the filter media and started producing wavy leafsprings that results in leaking bypass valves circa 2023.

Presently, especially for spin-on filters, the Premium Guard made EX filters are regarded as the most consistent in performance and quality of build construction. Premium Guards EX (Napa gold, carquest premium, stp xl) apparently have 98.7% efficiency at 15 microns, 99.9% at 25 microns and very clean/consistent build quality - evenly spaced media, no excess glue, metal core with fully opened holes, coil spring bypass valve, coil spring, etc. They are sold at Advanced Auto Parts as Carquest Premium filters. They also sell them under their own Premium Guard EX house brand, STP XL label, at O’reilly as Microguard Select, at NAPA as NAPA gold, and I’m sure there are a few other brands listed below:

For the new 2.3L Ecoboost. you could go with a NAPA Gold 7060, STP S12060XL and get a premium guard EX equivalent filter.

Fram PH12060 is supposedly what the Motorcraft FL-2127 for the new 2.3L ecoboost cross references to. Fram PH12060 Cross Reference . So you could pick one from the linked list that is also a brand in the picture above and get what the oil filter obsessed experts on BITOG claim is the best filter.

For the 2.7L with the cartridge filters there is less for the filter manufacturer to mess up; the filter brand is less important and it’s easier to make sure it’s not defective before install. You can focus on the efficiency rating in that case. I use a Fram Endurance for the 2.7 because of the efficiency of that filter and since it doesn’t have a bypass valve, thus avoiding the major First Brands spin-on filter problem.

 

[OverBudget]

For those curious, rockautos list for 2025 bronco 2.3 filters is currently incorrect. To shop for the correct filters on rockauto I'd use 2025 mustang 2.3 as the search which will give you the correct filters.

As for a few filters that cross reference,

Fram ultra = XG12060
Fram tough guard = TG12060
Fram extra gaurd = PH12060
Wix xp = WL10290XP
Wix = WL10290

Edit:

As mentioned earlier, the FL500s also fits so these should also fit*,

Fram ultra = XG10575
Fram tough gaurd = TG10575
Fram extra gaurd = PH10575
Bosch = 3502

*i used the FL500s as a fall back when my filter wasn't the right size, i am not suggesting these filters are better or worse then the factory size just that they should be options if needed/desired.

i'm also not suggesting any of the ones i listed are "best", much like oil brand, people have their own opinion or personal bias to what they like, i always suggest doing your own homework and deciding what stands out to you.

 

[CarbonSteel]

If people are going to spend the money on good oil in their engines, why not do the same w/the oil filter as well?
There are more than enough studies as to who makes a good oil filter.
At the very least people, use an OEM filter (Motorcraft).

Having seen the cut-a-ways of Fram oil filters w/their glued-on cardboards ends, no thanks.
I've also talked to too many mechanics over the years when it came to the issues that they have encountered w/them. That being the Fram filter core disintegrating in the engine.

The turbos especially need to be cared for by using Full Synthetic oil.
The turbos spin at several thousands of rpms, as well as get extremely hot.
Too many label their oil as Full Synthetic, when in fact they are nothing more than cracked mineral based oil.
Again, at the very least, use an OEM Full Synthetic oil, (Motorcraft).

When it comes to who makes the best oil filters as well as Synthetic engine oils, there's more than enough studies and opinions out there.

I run the FRAM Endurance, which for the money, is the best out there. With that said, and to your point, the FRAM Extra Guard (spin on) filters are cheaply made--but they outperform Motorcraft so there's that. Stepping up to an Ultra or Endurance does not break the bank and will get you 99.9% at 20um which is the top of the range for most over the counter filters.

Agree on oil as well, plenty of quality synthetics on the market so there is no need to scrimp and run a blend which is what MC oil is and cannot handle the fuel dilution the 2.7L engines produce (not sure if the 2.3L has a similar issue).

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