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pillar406

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Clubs
 
I haven’t used any of them but I think the idea is (minus the no-valve UPR) that since you don’t have to remove the plug you wouldn’t have to change the main o-rings. Plus they probably use higher quality materials than the OEM plug. The Ronin plug specifically mentions they are lifetime seals. They do sell replacement parts but only if they are lost or damaged.
I had the Ronin one before and I didn't like how much it wiggled once you installed it. I bought the UPR one and could not be happier. The double O-ring is a lot sturdier. Don't ever trust the word "lifetime". That's the same as these manufacturer's that say the transmission is lifetime fluid. Its still better to change the rings out every now and then.
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Epiphany

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Anyone have a Ronin, etc shoot out of the pan? I ask because it happened to 5 or so guys that posted on the GT350 forums. Mind you, the FPC V8 does vibrate quite a bit. It also uses a pan of the same material with a factory plastic plug. The UPR plugs are fairly long, something that would concern me in a high vibration type environment.
 

Ape Factory

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Clubs
 
I haven't read all 23 pages so apologies if this was answered earlier. I watched one video and it looks like the sump is flat. Is anyone using the extraction method from the top to drain their oil?

I've done this on some pretty high end cars designed for either extraction or drain and it has worked like a charm. With the filter up top and plastic oil drain plug, almost seems like the Bronco was designed for extraction as well.
 

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buzpro

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I haven't read all 23 pages so apologies if this was answered earlier. I watched one video and it looks like the sump is flat. Is anyone using the extraction method from the top to drain their oil?

I've done this on some pretty high end cars designed for either extraction or drain and it has worked like a charm. With the filter up top and plastic oil drain plug, almost seems like the Bronco was designed for extraction as well.
I've tried it ..... you can not reach the bottom of the pan ..... the is some obstruction in the way ...... I could only drain 3 liters
 

Ape Factory

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I've tried it ..... you can not reach the bottom of the pan ..... the is some obstruction in the way ...... I could only drain 3 liters
Damn. Was hoping for the easy button on this one.
 

TILNOR

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I want to start off saying thank you to everybody on this forum for giving me the early warning about how the oil shoots out. For anyone that's doing this for the first time I want to say don't worry. I just did my first oil change and made zero mess. It had to be the cleanest oil job I did using the factory OEM plug by simply not pulling it out so fast no joke intended. Now here comes the real joke for those who can't control their fluids just don't pull out so fast. I'm very serious I was worried that the oil is going to splash all over the frame and make a mess and Ford finally did did a good job because nothing dripped on the frame. It was so controlled using the factory plug by just slowly pulling out and holding it there and letting it flow. The larger concern is the oil filter housing. Making sure you don't over torque that and use a 27 mm socket not an adjustable wrench. For those that did use an adjustable wrench, nothing terrible with that but it's plastic so expected to get marred up.

Another comment, I haven't had a lot of experience with oil filter media like this design. All of my changes have been canisters like on my Mustang. The Ford service instruction says to put the filter in the housing and then screw it in. I kind of did it backwards and put it into the engine first then put the housing on top of that. It works but I'm sure it's better design the other way by putting in the housing first. There's my embarrassing story.
 

B22-2023

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I haven't read all 23 pages so apologies if this was answered earlier. I watched one video and it looks like the sump is flat. Is anyone using the extraction method from the top to drain their oil?

I've done this on some pretty high end cars designed for either extraction or drain and it has worked like a charm. With the filter up top and plastic oil drain plug, almost seems like the Bronco was designed for extraction as well.
I did recently with a vacuum extractor and it was easy to get all the oil I wanted out.
 

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buzpro

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I did recently with a vacuum extractor and it was easy to get all the oil I wanted out.
WHAT??? How much oil did you get out? where did you drain it from?
 

B22-2023

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WHAT??? How much oil did you get out? where did you drain it from?
Dipstick opening. It was well over 5 and close to 6, on this thing, didn’t have time to open the drain and see if there was more.
 

buzpro

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Dipstick opening. It was well over 5 and close to 6, on this thing, didn’t have time to open the drain and see if there was more.
What year is your Bronco? have they changed the oil pan? if you look at the illustration cutout on the first post you can see that the oil dipstick does NOT go to the bottom of the pan.
 

gbub

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I want to start off saying thank you to everybody on this forum for giving me the early warning about how the oil shoots out. For anyone that's doing this for the first time I want to say don't worry. I just did my first oil change and made zero mess. It had to be the cleanest oil job I did using the factory OEM plug by simply not pulling it out so fast no joke intended. Now here comes the real joke for those who can't control their fluids just don't pull out so fast. I'm very serious I was worried that the oil is going to splash all over the frame and make a mess and Ford finally did did a good job because nothing dripped on the frame. It was so controlled using the factory plug by just slowly pulling out and holding it there and letting it flow. The larger concern is the oil filter housing. Making sure you don't over torque that and use a 27 mm socket not an adjustable wrench. For those that did use an adjustable wrench, nothing terrible with that but it's plastic so expected to get marred up.

Another comment, I haven't had a lot of experience with oil filter media like this design. All of my changes have been canisters like on my Mustang. The Ford service instruction says to put the filter in the housing and then screw it in. I kind of did it backwards and put it into the engine first then put the housing on top of that. It works but I'm sure it's better design the other way by putting in the housing first. There's my embarrassing story.
I used your tip on slowly removing the drain plug out on the first oil change on my 2.7L Bronco. That method works very well.

My Ford workshop manual did not say to install the filter element in the screw on housing first. I am not sure it would stay in there when you flip it over to thread it in. When I removed mine the filter stayed in the bottom part on the engine.

I put in 6.5 quarts and it is now right at the top of the hash marks (full). Mine was over-full from the factory. I am guessing they filled with 7 quarts at the factory.
 

Ducati1098

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I am not sure it would stay in there when you flip it over to thread it in. When I removed mine the filter stayed in the bottom part on the engine.
It does. I always install the filter in the cap before putting to back in
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