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I really appreciate this thread and all the discussion. There's a lot of great knowledge in here! So thanks to the OP and everyone else who contributed.

I have the B&O and was ok with it, decently happy, but being a modaholic, musician and a "tone junkie", I wanted to see if I could make any improvements in a somewhat cost-effective manner (under $1K).

After messing around with the tone controls, I couldn't get rid of those tinny upper mids or lower highs. It was sort of a hollow but muffled thing going on at the same time. Sort of like the upper mid were loose. My first move was to upgrade the the three dash speakers which I finished doing this morning before going to work.

My initial impression was the speakers alone were a dramatic improvement in the clarity and warmth department. I went with Hertz CX100's and pointed the outer tweeters in an x pattern with the dash tweeter pointing towards me. Truth be told, I have a radar detector which covers most of the center speaker grille so I may have to make some adjustments there.

None-the-less, the clarity was very noticeable in the highs. I ended up turning down both the treble and the miss a bit but the bass seemed fuller too. Dunno.

I also purchased new rear pods (Mabett) and the Hertz CX165's which arrive Wednesday. Wanted to do this in stages just so I could hear the difference. As of right now I have no plans to update the kicker panel speakers or the sub but that could change. I'd really rather pull my own fingernails than pull body panels. I do see Hertz makes a Centro series woofer that'll fit the kickers and they're not very expensive. Might flush the sound out a bit more. I don't listen to anything requiring a ton of bass. I pretty much stop at Neal Peart (may he rest in peace). So if I can get clean, tight bass with the current configuration, that'll be enough for me.

Interestingly, the center speaker wasn't a coaxial like the left and right dash. Y'all probably already knew that but I was a bit surprised.

Cost-wise, I went the eBay/Amazon route and saved about 50% over shopping at Crutchfield. I had to wait for some stuff like the wiring harness adapters but I'll take that over spending almost twice as much.

***One update, the Mabett rear pods do not fit the Raptor. I didn't realize this when I ordered. Mabett would simply need to come up with a new bracket to make them work though. I had to go with the MTI Acoustics rear pods which are more than double the price and I'm guessing there's a wait. Ordered last week and no ship notice or anything yet despite them allegedly being in stock.
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Timo

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The volume knob should have immediate obvious affect. I would double check all the plugs and make sure they are fully inserted. I seem to remember the plug on the knob itself taking a bit of force to fully seat.
I have a question, have you noticed any reduction in road, tire or other sounds from under the car after using kilmat in the cargo area?
 

heathw101

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I have a question, have you noticed any reduction in road, tire or other sounds from under the car after using kilmat in the cargo area?

My experience was very little difference.
 

jellyrole

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Thanks for everyone's input in this thread. I just ordered everything to get this setup going. I also ordered the IAG tailgate air compressor kit. Do I need to run the power wires for the rear amp and this air compressor down separate sides of the vehicle?
 

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Thanks for everyone's input in this thread. I just ordered everything to get this setup going. I also ordered the IAG tailgate air compressor kit. Do I need to run the power wires for the rear amp and this air compressor down separate sides of the vehicle?
You want to run new power line. You can run one fused line all the way back, then, with a fused distribution block, branch it off at the rear fender for your amp and compressor. So there's a single fuse on the main line rated to run both, and then each device has it's own fuse back closer to the load where it splits.

For the compressor, You can ground to the rear fender (where the subwoofer is), but not the tailgate itself.
 

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jellyrole

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You want to run new power line. You can run one fused line all the way back, then, with a fused distribution block, branch it off at the rear fender for your amp and compressor. So there's a single fuse on the main line rated to run both, and then each device has it's own fuse back closer to the load where it splits.

For the compressor, You can ground to the rear fender (where the subwoofer is), but not the tailgate itself.
Let's say I don't know much about electronics - what fuse would I need and do you have a recommendation for a distro block?
 

AdamF@IAG

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Let's say I don't know much about electronics - what fuse would I need and do you have a recommendation for a distro block?
Our kit uses a self resetting circuit breaker right off the battery, so you wouldn't need a fused line. Depending on the amplifier, you could likely just replace our 10 ga with 8 ga and run both off of that line out of a distribution block. Or tap into the hot side of the 80A relay installed in the back for our compressor. Again, this is dependent on your amp. Newer digital amps don't draw the current of those from 10-20 years ago.
 

Brian_B

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Let's say I don't know much about electronics - what fuse would I need and do you have a recommendation for a distro block?
https://jascoautomotive.com/automotive-wire-amperage-capacity-chart/

Main line - say 100A. #2 copper welding wire. May want to go even bigger depending on how loud you want the radio when you are running the air compressor.

Many amps are either 30A or 60A rated. The popular Kicker 500.1 is 60A, for example.

A decent ampacity chart:

https://jascoautomotive.com/automotive-wire-amperage-capacity-chart/

What Adam suggests would work, but I wouldn’t want to run 100A fuse to an 80A relay, and I wouldn’t want to down size the fuse because good chance you would pop it if you turn on your air compressor with the radio on.

You could step up to a larger 100A relay and do that, or use a branch and feed 80A fuse to the compressor and 60A to the amp

(Yeah that adds up to more than 100A - don’t run the compressor with the radio turned up to full volume and that would be fine, or upsize that 100A line if you want more margin, or run two separate power lines, each fused at the battery)

Here’s an option that contains fuses that would work inside the cab ok. The 100A fuse you want close to the battery, then you run the #2 all the way back to the rear cargo panel and install this distribution block somewhere close to the amp or compressor. Then wire your amp and compressor from that, and ground both to the rear ground point back there.

https://www.amazon.com/RECOIL-ZMFH1...00A+Power+Distribution&qid=1743195959&sr=8-17

I’ll also say, I prefer crimped lug connectors on bolted connections on large power wiring rather than those barrel screws on stripped wire - need to make sure those suckers are tight. I’m sure there’s a part that exists like that, I just grabbed the first part I found.

I attached what I did under the hood - it has crimped bolted connections through out and ANC fuses - the fuse holders are just separate rather than one nice neat block. Your line would run all the way to the back before it splits would be the only difference

Ford Bronco B&O sound system complete upgrade - Done ✅ IMG_2334
 
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OK, I just finished installing the kicker CS plug in play kit from TrailSeven over the weekend. I am now struggling to balance the sound. The dash speakers sound very tinny and shrill is the only way I can think to describe it. I have the balance way back in the backseat area just to counter it and have been playing with stereo vs surround mode. Oddly, sirius and fmhd sound better in stereo and I think spotify through carplay likes surround better.

My question is, if I dont go the mobridge amped route, did I chose the wrong speakers? I was on the fense with these or the hertz 100.3's but put the kicker pods in the rears a few weeks back and liked them, so thought I should go kicker all around... It might be a waste, but I think I'd be OK getting a pair (or 3) of more appropriate dash speakers that handle the B&O programing better and are a bit warmer/fuller. When I crank the volume the kickers wake up and interact better, but Im not drinving around at 25 volume all the time. I think they would be great if I go the mobridge route, and I'll save them for that possibility.

But has anyone has the same experience with the dash speakers being too shrill and finding something better?
 

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OK, I just finished installing the kicker CS plug in play kit from TrailSeven over the weekend. I am now struggling to balance the sound. The dash speakers sound very tinny and shrill is the only way I can think to describe it. I have the balance way back in the backseat area just to counter it and have been playing with stereo vs surround mode. Oddly, sirius and fmhd sound better in stereo and I think spotify through carplay likes surround better.

My question is, if I dont go the mobridge amped route, did I chose the wrong speakers? I was on the fense with these or the hertz 100.3's but put the kicker pods in the rears a few weeks back and liked them, so thought I should go kicker all around... It might be a waste, but I think I'd be OK getting a pair (or 3) of more appropriate dash speakers that handle the B&O programing better and are a bit warmer/fuller. When I crank the volume the kickers wake up and interact better, but Im not drinving around at 25 volume all the time. I think they would be great if I go the mobridge route, and I'll save them for that possibility.

But has anyone has the same experience with the dash speakers being too shrill and finding something better?
last weekend I installed the full status system with the 2 amp set up. Took me a few attempts at adjusting gain. I went with their recommended presets for everything else. The sound is unbelievable. And I hope I’m not just trying to justify the price in my mind by saying it’s amazing sound. I installed everything with the top off. Now that the top is back on for some cold weather days the sound is even better.
 

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eduard4us

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OK, I just finished installing the kicker CS plug in play kit from TrailSeven over the weekend. I am now struggling to balance the sound. The dash speakers sound very tinny and shrill is the only way I can think to describe it. I have the balance way back in the backseat area just to counter it and have been playing with stereo vs surround mode. Oddly, sirius and fmhd sound better in stereo and I think spotify through carplay likes surround better.

My question is, if I dont go the mobridge amped route, did I chose the wrong speakers? I was on the fense with these or the hertz 100.3's but put the kicker pods in the rears a few weeks back and liked them, so thought I should go kicker all around... It might be a waste, but I think I'd be OK getting a pair (or 3) of more appropriate dash speakers that handle the B&O programing better and are a bit warmer/fuller. When I crank the volume the kickers wake up and interact better, but Im not drinving around at 25 volume all the time. I think they would be great if I go the mobridge route, and I'll save them for that possibility.

But has anyone has the same experience with the dash speakers being too shrill and finding something better?
That to me sounds like gain level setting.
Do you have the B&O system?
 

foreWard

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That to me sounds like gain level setting.
Do you have the B&O system?
Yes, B&O. Just swapped out all the speakers (other than sub) to kicker CS so far.
 

eduard4us

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Yes, B&O. Just swapped out all the speakers (other than sub) to kicker CS so far.
Oh, I thought that you have the full plug and play amp system from trailseven. My bad 😞

I tried several aftermarket speakers and none really worked well with the B&O amp.
I eventually went mObridge way two years ago and never looked back. The DSP tuning is a steep climb but once you get it it will reward you.
 

hilmerdm

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Oh, I thought that you have the full plug and play amp system from trailseven. My bad 😞

I tried several aftermarket speakers and none really worked well with the B&O amp.
I eventually went mObridge way two years ago and never looked back. The DSP tuning is a steep climb but once you get it it will reward you.
I tried several variations of speakers- mainly Hertz DCX and PRV midrange with/ without bass blockers and it always sounded tinny. I’m also convinced that there’s so much going on with the B&O amp and it’s DSP programming for the stock system that the only way to get the improvement in sound quality with the cost is to wrest control of the system and go with the mObridge. It is a steep curve with the DSP, but there are several folks on here with tunes that meet many set ups and you can then tinkerer with it.
 

eduard4us

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I tried several variations of speakers- mainly Hertz DCX and PRV midrange with/ without bass blockers and it always sounded tinny. I’m also convinced that there’s so much going on with the B&O amp and it’s DSP programming for the stock system that the only way to get the improvement in sound quality with the cost is to wrest control of the system and go with the mObridge. It is a steep curve with the DSP, but there are several folks on here with tunes that meet many set ups and you can then tinkerer with it.
Totally agree with you. Also, mObridge allowed me to go full 3-way front stage by removing the center channel. It is a flexible and versatile plug and play option.
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