BWI Bronco Stabilizer Bar Disconnect Technical Information

[jsoa]

Thanks for that! I have the sway bar on order and was planning on using the IAG skids. Their site didn’t say if it cleared or not. Back to the drawing board I guess

Don't let that deter you, the long line just scuffed up the power coat and barley hit the steel, the two small lines did hit the steel. I looked at the sway bar and doesn't show any sign of damage just scuffed up. I do wonder if it prevented the full extent of the sway, not sure.

That is unfortunate. We just checked the clearance last week and saw it was close, but did clear. I will definitely check it again tomorrow for the rotation. Truthfully, only our Braptor has the disconnect and we don't take it off-road. So we didn't experience the rubbing. It looks like it could be remedied with some washers or spacers between the x member and skids. Moving forward, I can alter the geometry of the skid to give more clearance.

Yup already added 3 washers per bolt on the front part of the transmission skid, will add them to the engine skid later to get them to line up again. I didn't take any measurements, but it doesn't need much more clearance on the transmission skid. If you do end up offering up a newer version that clears a sway bar, let me know, very interested.

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[jsoa]

IAG came up with a spacer solution quick, they are the best! thank you @AdamF@IAG

nice and flush

 

[Copperhorse73]

IAG came up with a spacer solution quick, they are the best! thank you @AdamF@IAG

nice and flush

I hear a lot of good things about them lately

 

[AceHero]

So I’ve done the install. 6v method. How do I know it works? ( Besides taking it in a trail.) I drive up a small hill had one tire off and flipped the switch. Didn’t really notice anything.

 

[geargeek]

So I’ve done the install. 6v method. How do I know it works? ( Besides taking it in a trail.) I drive up a small hill had one tire off and flipped the switch. Didn’t really notice anything.

Yours is probably not working. You would notice. Even if one tire is on a six inch bump you would notice. Check your connections.

 

[AceHero]

Yours is probably not working. You would notice. Even if one tire is on a six inch bump you would notice. Check your connections.

Got it. Was running off a bad wire table. What I thought was Aux 1 was Aux 3.

 

[brkdncr]

Great info in this post. Just finished the upgrade today and the only thing I haven’t seen mentioned is that the end links should not be tightened down with the wheels off the ground. Doing so will bind the rubber dust boots, eventually causing them to rip open.

 

[UMDC]

Greetings Bronco community! I am seeking details about the electronic disconnect sway bar. My intent is to fit it to a different vehicle. I would like to thank @North7 and all thread participants for amassing a great deal of information on this topic already.

Specifically, I'm seeking the below dimensions, with D1-D4 being most critical to my decision -- if those are within the range of plausibility, I'll buy one and see if I can make it work. If D5-D8 work out in my favor, it might even be easy. I doubt that's the case, as I can't find any evidence of anyone yet fitting these to my vehicle -- a highly popular mid-size pickup truck. But there's always hope!

I humbly beg anyone reading this to attempt measuring any of these dimensions on their Bronco -- just bring a tape measure next time you're under your truck and snap some pictures. Even if you're just eyeballing it... I will buy you a beer or a coffee for each dimension -- your choice.

D1 is the distance between mounting bolts on either side of the frame -- preferably measured on the frame of the truck.

D2 is the overall axial length of the unstrained torsional tube assembly, including the end bolts.

D3 is the distance between the inner shaft collar and outer arm sleeve, and D4 is the width of the mounting bushing...

...so with D3 and D4 I can estimate the axial elongation and contraction of D2 in the unlocked configuration. You could also just push the bushing to either side on a dismounted sway bar, and measure the gap between it and the opposing stop, but I couldn't illustrate that clearly in the image. Anyway, I need this info to figure out if the tubular assembly will fit my frame and clear my tires over their range of steering and suspension travel. I am neither a vehicle specialist nor a complete novice, but I can machine and weld things, poorly but very enthusiastically. I also have friends who do such things professionally, and am willing to burn some favors.

D5-D8 would be useful to determine if the arms might even be useable on my vehicle. I doubt that's the case, but if the torsion tube assembly itself will fit, I can fabricate (err.. commission the fabrication of) arms suited to my vehicle. The sway bar will be installed upside down on my vehicle -- leading the axles.

I am further curious if the arms are made of spring steel -- in other words, if they bend along their length as part of the 'locked' sway bar configuration. The animations suggest not, and they appear to be cast or forged chunks of grade-A beef, which gives me hope that I could lop them off near their base and weld on new arms to link up with my suspension.

Although I'm not a Bronco owner, let the record state that I ordered one on launch day. Failing at my attempt to grab a First Edition, I settled on a fully spec'd Badlands 4-door in blue, with a hard top. Two years later, the dealer talked me out of actually buying it, because it showed up with a soft top. Fucker sold it for $20k over invoice the next day. I still regret that decision, but don't mind being $70k less poor. Gives me a bit more to throw at harebrained ideas for my old pickup truck. Although according to my bank, I've been broke this whole entire time. Can't figure out why.

 

[SD-WTrak]

Greetings Bronco community! I am seeking details about the electronic disconnect sway bar. My intent is to fit it to a different vehicle. I would like to thank @North7 and all thread participants for amassing a great deal of information on this topic already.

Specifically, I'm seeking the below dimensions, with D1-D4 being most critical to my decision -- if those are within the range of plausibility, I'll buy one and see if I can make it work. If D5-D8 work out in my favor, it might even be easy. I doubt that's the case, as I can't find any evidence of anyone yet fitting these to my vehicle -- a highly popular mid-size pickup truck. But there's always hope!

I humbly beg anyone reading this to attempt measuring any of these dimensions on their Bronco -- just bring a tape measure next time you're under your truck and snap some pictures. Even if you're just eyeballing it... I will buy you a beer or a coffee for each dimension -- your choice.

D1 is the distance between mounting bolts on either side of the frame -- preferably measured on the frame of the truck.

D2 is the overall axial length of the unstrained torsional tube assembly, including the end bolts.

D3 is the distance between the inner shaft collar and outer arm sleeve, and D4 is the width of the mounting bushing...

...so with D3 and D4 I can estimate the axial elongation and contraction of D2 in the unlocked configuration. You could also just push the bushing to either side on a dismounted sway bar, and measure the gap between it and the opposing stop, but I couldn't illustrate that clearly in the image. Anyway, I need this info to figure out if the tubular assembly will fit my frame and clear my tires over their range of steering and suspension travel. I am neither a vehicle specialist nor a complete novice, but I can machine and weld things, poorly but very enthusiastically. I also have friends who do such things professionally, and am willing to burn some favors.

D5-D8 would be useful to determine if the arms might even be useable on my vehicle. I doubt that's the case, but if the torsion tube assembly itself will fit, I can fabricate (err.. commission the fabrication of) arms suited to my vehicle. The sway bar will be installed upside down on my vehicle -- leading the axles.

I am further curious if the arms are made of spring steel -- in other words, if they bend along their length as part of the 'locked' sway bar configuration. The animations suggest not, and they appear to be cast or forged chunks of grade-A beef, which gives me hope that I could lop them off near their base and weld on new arms to link up with my suspension.

Although I'm not a Bronco owner, let the record state that I ordered one on launch day. Failing at my attempt to grab a First Edition, I settled on a fully spec'd Badlands 4-door in blue, with a hard top. Two years later, the dealer talked me out of actually buying it, because it showed up with a soft top. Fucker sold it for $20k over invoice the next day. I still regret that decision, but don't mind being $70k less poor. Gives me a bit more to throw at harebrained ideas for my old pickup truck. Although according to my bank, I've been broke this whole entire time. Can't figure out why.

D1~=27” (out of box, not installed, so not positive, yet) This weekend!!!

D2~=34.25”

D3 Inside of arm to inside of flanged clamp~=2.3”

D4 bushing width ~=1.75”

D4 width of mounting flange ~=2.1”

D5~=43.75”

D6~=12.5”

D7~=0.67”

DIA8~=0.55”

 

[UMDC]

D1~=27” (out of box, not installed, so not positive, yet) This weekend!!!

D2~=34.25”

D3 Inside of arm to inside of flanged clamp~=2.3”

D4 bushing width ~=1.75”

D4 width of mounting flange ~=2.1”

D5~=43.75”

D6~=12.5”

D7~=0.67”

DIA8~=0.55”

Thanks Keith! You are a scholar and a gentleman -- and I owe you some beer and/or coffee. I know you posted this several months ago but I just saw it (doh) and am eagerly heading home to measure my truck!

 

[HowieLong]

I just purchased and installed the latest version of the stabilizer bar, MB3Z-5482-Y. I wired it up as suggested in this thread, but it is not working. I have power out of the plug. When the aux switch is flipped on and off I can hear a clicking sound within the sta bar but nothing happens. All of the plugs on the sta bar appear to be tight. Is it possible they changed the unit to require a signal other than power to activate? Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[geargeek]

I just purchased and installed the latest version of the stabilizer bar, MB3Z-5482-Y. I wired it up as suggested in this thread, but it is not working. I have power out of the plug. When the aux switch is flipped on and off I can hear a clicking sound within the sta bar but nothing happens. All of the plugs on the sta bar appear to be tight. Is it possible they changed the unit to require a signal other than power to activate? Any suggestions are appreciated.

Forgive me for asking the obvious, but I have to ask to eliminate the possibility: Are you on flat ground? If so, nothing will happen. With sta-bar connected, need to drive onto something with ONE front wheel higher than the other. Then flip the switch (disconnect sta-bar) and you'll see the extra articulation immediately. Once disconnected, it won't re-engage until you get the front wheels level again...

If that's not it, triple-check your wiring.

 

[HowieLong]

Forgive me for asking the obvious, but I have to ask to eliminate the possibility: Are you on flat ground? If so, nothing will happen. With sta-bar connected, need to drive onto something with ONE front wheel higher than the other. Then flip the switch (disconnect sta-bar) and you'll see the extra articulation immediately. Once disconnected, it won't re-engage until you get the front wheels level again...

If that's not it, triple-check your wiring.

I had one wheel about 4 inches up on a rock. I can try something a little taller if needed. Thanks.

 

[geargeek]

I had one wheel about 4 inches up on a rock. I can try something a little taller if needed. Thanks.

Bummer that should be enough. You may want to try to switch off, back up, level wheels, then drive back on to ensure it wasn't already disconnected when you drove up on the rock?

 

[HowieLong]

Bummer that should be enough. You may want to try to switch off, back up, level wheels, then drive back on to ensure it wasn't already disconnected when you drove up on the rock?

I tried something about twice that height at it worked. Thank you very much.

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