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CarbonSteel

CarbonSteel

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2021FordBronco2

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Clubs
 
When I did mine, fluid cold, I put in 6 of the motocraft quarts (and 5-10 ounces of Lubeguard Red). I had it checked recently at the dealer to make sure I had it right, and it checked out fine, read on the stick between 3-4 on their official warmed up test. Mine is very smooth, other than the usual ultra low speed clunks that we all suffer from. Accelerating and decelerating, I feel no shifts. Feels almost like a CVT thanks to 10 gears when accelerating.

That said though, I also replaced the filter, which certainly absorbed some of it. If you're going to do the pan, I do highly recommend getting a new filter as well.
Thank you, already have a new filter as well as I was planning on changing it out since it is after the break in period in case there was shards in the fluid from that process.
 

Gotchaa

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@CarbonSteel I have some mobil 1 75W-90 grade oil and some Valvoline 75W-140, which do you recommend for the front differential, WT SAS with Lockers?
 
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@CarbonSteel I have some mobil 1 75W-90 grade oil and some Valvoline 75W-140, which do you recommend for the front differential, WT SAS with Lockers?
If you are heavy off-roader (you use your 4x4 a lot), I would use 75W-140, otherwise 75W-90 will be fine.
 

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Why does Ford and Dana have different specs for the same part?
IMG_0013.webp
IMG_0011.webp
Only 1 reason--CAFE.

Ford needs to improve MPG on the whole fleet, just like all OEMs do so they reduce viscosity. Increased MPG does not equal longer equipment life.

Dana has no need to worry about CAFE so they spec the viscosity that provides the most protection.
 

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I have not--mine has a whine that will not go away and I have been hesitant to mess with it in case I have a warranty claim, though the local dealer said they would change the fluid and install the PPE pan and it would not void the warranty.

You are going to need this tool or something very much like it along with a "gauntlet glove" for your hand because you WILL be branded by the exhaust pipes while checking the level.

Fill Tube.jpg


And a fluid pump:

Fill Tube2.jpg



It is a very straightforward process, but keep in mind the longer you allow it to drain the more fluid will be needed. Initial fill should be this on the dipstick when cold and idling in park:

Initial Fill.jpg


At operating temperature (which is between 206F and 215F), the final level should be this:

Final Fill.jpg


With that said, I have read that when cold and idling in park, if you fill to one "square" below the at temperature mark, when the fluid heats to operating temperature, it will be right on the money.

i.e. fill to between to the "4" mark and it will be at the "3" mark when at temperature. I would fill it to "4" when cold and then check it at temperature to confirm.
Are there any other videos out there on the transmission fluid change specific for the bronco other than the ford 10r80 ten speed transmission video. Thanks
 

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Man, this is alot to take in. Appreciate the real talk on mpg needs at Ford versus whats truly best for our engines and components.

Looking at your analysis data…Any concerns on your fuel dilution increases?

Also, did you settle on which air filter to run?
 
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Are there any other videos out there on the transmission fluid change specific for the bronco other than the ford 10r80 ten speed transmission video. Thanks
Not sure but as I understand, they are almost identical from that aspect aside from the dipstick levels.

@Ducati1098 - can you confirm?
 

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Man, this is alot to take in. Appreciate the real talk on mpg needs at Ford versus whats truly best for our engines and components.

Looking at your analysis data…Any concerns on your fuel dilution increases?

Also, did you settle on which air filter to run?
I stopped doing remote starts and allowing it to warm up to see how much that was contributing to the dilution. If the levels are still high in the next sample, then I may have a leaking injector. With that said, all the more reason to run a thicker viscosity xW-30 oil. At 5% dilution, Motorcraft 5W-30 would have been a thin xW-20 at the end of that run.

I have not changed my air filter yet, the silicon levels are not increasing, but I am leaning towards the aFe dry filter when the time comes:

https://afepower.com/afe-power-10-10401d-magnum-flow-pro-dry-s-air-filter
 

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Not sure but as I understand, they are almost identical from that aspect aside from the dipstick levels.

@Ducati1098 - can you confirm?
Yeah the only other difference is the dip stick location. 10R80 is passenger side closer to the front of the case, 10R60 like the Bronco is driver side more near the rear.

Then like you mentioned the level range will be different too depending on year/model.
 

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I stopped doing remote starts and allowing it to warm up to see how much that was contributing to the dilution. If the levels are still high in the next sample, then I may have a leaking injector. With that said, all the more reason to run a thicker viscosity xW-30 oil. At 5% dilution, Motorcraft 5W-30 would have been a thin xW-20 at the end of that run.

I have not changed my air filter yet, the silicon levels are not increasing, but I am leaning towards the aFe dry filter when the time comes:

https://afepower.com/afe-power-10-10401d-magnum-flow-pro-dry-s-air-filter
I like the ability to clean and refresh that aFe filter without the oil. Higher upfront cost but better long term value. Thanks for recommending.

The more I learn about oil breakdown, the more I think the old school 3000 mile oil change interval makes sense.
 
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I like the ability to clean and refresh that aFe filter without the oil. Higher upfront cost but better long term value. Thanks for recommending.

The more I learn about oil breakdown, the more I think the old school 3000 mile oil change interval makes sense.
Yeah, color me not a fan of K&N oil type air filters. The increased flow comes at a cost--decreased filtering and you are taking a chance on the filter oil making its way into MAF/MAP sensors and ruining them. The mess of cleaning them is not worth it as well.

Until the advent and widespread use of direct injection (DI), extended oil changes were possible with no detrimental effects to the engine, but it did require close monitoring of the oil via UOA to ensure that active additives were still present. I had a 2010 FX4 with a 5.4L engine that I did extended OCIs on 10K to 17K miles, but those days are long gone.

 
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Did a little maintenance today. Changed the oil (UOA to follow--or not--USPS lost the sample), the wiper blades and the cabin air filter.

16 months/24K miles; it was DIRTY:

Ford Bronco CarbonSteel's 2023 Wildtrak Build + Maintenance Journal (Filters, Fluids, Oil Changes Etc) 20250217_094814
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