CarbonSteel's 2023 Wildtrak Build + Maintenance Journal (Filters, Fluids, Oil Changes Etc)

[redone17]

Gasket + FP cover flange thickness. Note the OEM cover is just stamped steel and is between 1/16" and 3/32" thick. The FP cover is much thicker and when combined with the thickness of the OEM gasket, IMHO 20MM bolts are too short, so I went 25MM.

For clarity, the factory bolts will grab thread, but because the face of the housing threaded bosses are back beveled, you are not catching much.

Will it tighten and not leak--yes. Will it withstand a hit from a rock or drop-off...highly doubtful.

That all makes sense - but, aren’t they already longer than the stock hardware, or no?

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[CarbonSteel]

That all makes sense - but, aren’t they already longer than the stock hardware, or no?

No; both stock and FP are 20MM. They are able to get away with it because although the FP cover is thicker, it uses a composite gasket which is less than half the thickness of the OEM gasket so more or less it is an offset.

The caveat is that I have not been able to find anything other than the OEM gasket in the marketplace. There are plenty of Dana 44 gaskets but they are for the original style which is a 10 bolt versus the Advantek style which is 12.

 

[redone17]

Right on. I guess I’m assuming the Ranger has a reusable gasket - but, I bet it doesn’t.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Right on. I guess I’m assuming the Ranger has a reusable gasket - but, I bet it doesn’t.

I am betting it does given the lack of anything other than OEM in the marketplace.

 

[redone17]

I am betting it does given the lack of anything other than OEM in the marketplace.

You’re correct. It uses KB3Z 4036-A.

Why they opt for the cheaper version for the “performance” install is beyond me.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Cheaper for them, increasing their profit margin. They figure that this install is a one time deal since it provides a drain plug.

I keep the OEM cover since a pretty significant puddle (1/4 cup or so?) of the worst sludge remains in the pumpkin. I feel better wiping it out. Maybe not necessary, but that’s me.

I plan to pull the FP cover at times as well which is why I went with the OEM rubber gasket as it is reusable many times. The drain plug makes it an easier dump and fill, but until am sure the axle has stopped generating so much metal, I will pull it a few times.

 

[CarbonSteel]

You’re correct. It uses KB3Z 4036-A.

Why they opt for the cheaper version for the “performance” install is beyond me.

Could be something as simple as the fasteners and not being able to find someone to make the studs. I have yet to find a composite Advantek gasket on the market. So, I went the other way and TBT the OEM gasket is light years better anyway.

 

[Nc211]

I’m curious of thoughts - earth magnets on the outside of the diff housing? I have these magnets that are about 1/8th inch thick and the size of a quarter. They are insanely strong, 50lb hold ability. Wouldn’t putting one on the outside at the bottom help with billing and holding the shavings to that spot inside the housing?

 

[Nc211]

No; both stock and FP are 20MM. They are able to get away with it because although the FP cover is thicker, it uses a composite gasket which is less than half the thickness of the OEM gasket so more or less it is an offset.

The caveat is that I have not been able to find anything other than the OEM gasket in the marketplace. There are plenty of Dana 44 gaskets but they are for the original style which is a 10 bolt versus the Advantek style which is 12.

Makes sense to me! Ordered what you ordered Carbon and will get to this once the bolts arrive.

Curious if you’ve wrestled with the transmission fluid yet? Seen some Y/tube videos on it, doesn’t look too too bad, not sure how to create a fill gadget to get on top of the transmission though.

 

[Kach Vartan]

Could be something as simple as the fasteners and not being able to find someone to make the studs. I have yet to find a composite Advantek gasket on the market. So, I went the other way and TBT the OEM gasket is light years better anyway.

For all the bolts and fasteners you linked to, any concern with using the black oxide type? Planning on painting my diff cover black and would like the hardware to match.

 

[CarbonSteel]

For all the bolts and fasteners you linked to, any concern with using the black oxide type? Planning on painting my diff cover black and would like the hardware to match.

If you are in a high salt/high humidity area, they will rust. I used the yellow coated ones.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Makes sense to me! Ordered what you ordered Carbon and will get to this once the bolts arrive.

Curious if you’ve wrestled with the transmission fluid yet? Seen some Y/tube videos on it, doesn’t look too too bad, not sure how to create a fill gadget to get on top of the transmission though.

I have not--mine has a whine that will not go away and I have been hesitant to mess with it in case I have a warranty claim, though the local dealer said they would change the fluid and install the PPE pan and it would not void the warranty.

You are going to need this tool or something very much like it along with a "gauntlet glove" for your hand because you WILL be branded by the exhaust pipes while checking the level.

And a fluid pump:

It is a very straightforward process, but keep in mind the longer you allow it to drain the more fluid will be needed. Initial fill should be this on the dipstick when cold and idling in park:

At operating temperature (which is between 206F and 215F), the final level should be this:

With that said, I have read that when cold and idling in park, if you fill to one "square" below the at temperature mark, when the fluid heats to operating temperature, it will be right on the money.

i.e. fill to between to the "4" mark and it will be at the "3" mark when at temperature. I would fill it to "4" when cold and then check it at temperature to confirm.

 

[Nc211]

To illustrate Carbon’s comments on the longer bolts, think these pictures do a good job. Notice the thickness of the new diff cover in the background, which is substantially more than the factory cover. The black bolts came with the cover. The silver bolts are the ones he recommends in his initial post for the project.

 

[Nc211]

I have not--mine has a whine that will not go away and I have been hesitant to mess with it in case I have a warranty claim, though the local dealer said they would change the fluid and install the PPE pan and it would not void the warranty.

You are going to need this tool or something very much like it along with a "gauntlet glove" for your hand because you WILL be branded by the exhaust pipes while checking the level.

And a fluid pump:

It is a very straightforward process, but keep in mind the longer you allow it to drain the more fluid will be needed. Initial fill should be this on the dipstick when cold and idling in park:

At operating temperature (which is between 206F and 215F), the final level should be this:

With that said, I have read that when cold and idling in park, if you fill to one "square" below the at temperature mark, when the fluid heats to operating temperature, it will be right on the money.

i.e. fill to between to the "4" mark and it will be at the "3" mark when at temperature. I would fill it to "4" when cold and then check it at temperature to confirm.

Thanks Carbon!!

Curious of your thoughts about Amsoil ATF? I used it in my 2014 Mercedes E350 at about 65k miles, and it made a WORLD of difference in smoothness, was really impressed. I also used to have a 2006 Mazda 3 that I bought for my wife when we got married in 2006. A Volvo frame, ford engine and transmission, Mazda body. I changed the transmission fluid over to approved Mobile 1 at around 5k miles, and that too made a massive improvement of smoothness, engagement, and noise. Traded it in (a mistake) a few years later at around 50k miles and was still smooth as silk.

I have a 5 gallon jug of Amsoil AFT left over from the Mercedes that fits the Ford 10 speed too. Very tempted to use it..

 

[CarbonSteel]

Thanks Carbon!!

Curious of your thoughts about Amsoil ATF? I used it in my 2014 Mercedes E350 at about 65k miles, and it made a WORLD of difference in smoothness, was really impressed. I also used to have a 2006 Mazda 3 that I bought for my wife when we got married in 2006. A Volvo frame, ford engine and transmission, Mazda body. I changed the transmission fluid over to approved Mobile 1 at around 5k miles, and that too made a massive improvement of smoothness, engagement, and noise. Traded it in (a mistake) a few years later at around 50k miles and was still smooth as silk.

I have a 5 gallon jug of Amsoil AFT left over from the Mercedes that fits the Ford 10 speed too. Very tempted to use it..

Nothing wrong with Amsoil (I use their gear oils), but if you have an issue with the transmission and Ford determines that unapproved fluid was used, you will have a warranty fight on your hands. There are only 3 fluids that I have found that are Ford approved:

	Kendall	VersaTrans ULV
	Phillips 66	VersaTrans ULV
	Motorcraft	Mercon ULV

I would guess that Phillips (who owns Kendall) makes the Motorcraft fluid and that is why they are approved.

Note how Amsoil (and many other transmission fluid companies) use weasel words:

Use AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic ATF in transmissions and other applications that require any of the following specifications...

You will not find the words "Approved by Ford" or "Meets Ford Specification XXX" anywhere in the documentation--that is because it is NOT approved by Ford. Ergo, though I would not expect to have any issues using Amsoil just be aware of the risk.

https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g3110.pdf

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