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Ducati1098

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Question about the bump stops listed in the cookbook. I see part numbers MB3Z-18198-C and MB3Z-5K570-C. I think these reference the Sasquatch bump stops. In another thread here, it lists the same part numbers for both the non-sas and sas bilsteins, but I believe they are different sizes. Can anyone confirm that MB3Z-18198-C and MB3Z-5K570-C are the Sasquatch bump stops?
Hoss 3.0: NB3Z-5K570-A
Hoss 2.0/badlands: MB3Z-5K570-C
Standard: MB3Z-5K570-B

Hoss 3.0: NB3Z-18198-A
Hoss 2.0/badlands: MB3Z-18198-C
Standard: MB3Z-18198-B
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BadlandsJ

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Hoss 3.0: NB3Z-5K570-A
Hoss 2.0/badlands: MB3Z-5K570-C
Standard: MB3Z-5K570-B

Hoss 3.0: NB3Z-18198-A
Hoss 2.0/badlands: MB3Z-18198-C
Stamdard: MB3Z-18198-B
Thanks.

Although, I thought the non-sas badlands and sasquatch (both Hoss 2.0) had different length bump stops?
 

Ducati1098

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Thanks.

Although, I thought the non-sas badlands and sasquatch (both Hoss 2.0) had different length bump stops?
I don’t know. These are straight out of the parts catalog 🤷‍♂️
 

mpeugeot

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Thanks.

Although, I thought the non-sas badlands and sasquatch (both Hoss 2.0) had different length bump stops?
Here is what I used to replicate a stock 2 door non-sasquatch Bronco suspension on my OBX.

Shocks
MB3Z-1824-D (x2)
MB3Z-1825-D (x2)

Springs
MB3Z-5310-K (x2)
MB3Z-5560-F (x2)

Bump stops
MB3Z-18198-C (x2)
MB3Z-5K570-C (x2)
 

mpeugeot

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From my previous research.


2D 2.7 Badlands No Sasquatch
Shocks F: MB3Z-1824-D R: MB3Z-1825-D
Springs F: MB3Z-5310-K R: MB3Z-5560-F
Bump Stops F: MB3Z-18198-C R: MB3Z-5K570-C

2D 2.7 OBX Sasquatch
Shocks F: MB3Z-1824-J R: MB3Z-1825-K
Springs F: MB3Z-5310-F R: MB3Z-5560-F
Bump Stops F: MB3Z-18198-C R: MB3Z-5K570-C
 

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BadlandsJ

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From my previous research.


2D 2.7 Badlands No Sasquatch
Shocks F: MB3Z-1824-D R: MB3Z-1825-D
Springs F: MB3Z-5310-K R: MB3Z-5560-F
Bump Stops F: MB3Z-18198-C R: MB3Z-5K570-C

2D 2.7 OBX Sasquatch
Shocks F: MB3Z-1824-J R: MB3Z-1825-K
Springs F: MB3Z-5310-F R: MB3Z-5560-F
Bump Stops F: MB3Z-18198-C R: MB3Z-5K570-C
Thanks, everyone. Looks like they really are the same bump stops on the Badlands non-Sas and Sas. Even my VIN search (for non-Sas Badlands) in the Ford parts catalog verifies that. I’m still confused because everything I’ve read on bronco6g up until now has said that the Bronco non-Sas has more travel due to longer bump stops on the Sasquatch package. So now I just don’t understand where the difference in travel is supposed to come from. Perhaps the shock body length is different. 🤷‍♂️
 
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artart88

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I will be putting SAS takeoffs onto my non-SAS and wanted to ask a few questions.
The takeoffs came off a 2022 Badlands SAS 4-Door 2.7 w/trailer package and mine is a 2023 BD non-SAS 4-Door 2.7 w/o trailer package.

1. How important is it to replace the various nuts when doing this? The takeoffs I received have almost all of them included and I have my base hardware as well. I intend to do so either way, but want to ask in case I end up a nut or two short somehow during installation.

2. Replacing the nuts, it looks like I should get.
12x W520213-S440
4x W717969-S440

The dealer site photo seems to indicate that W520213 is 2 nuts per and W717969 is 4 per, is that correct? So I would order 6x W520213-S440 and 1x W717969-S440.

3. Would I not also want to replace the nut for the lower rear mount? W719178-S440?
Did you ever get answers to your questions? I have the same questions.
 

Texasgrillchef

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I learned a ton about IFS and Ryan from 4WP, in both his video(s) and his conversations here, really opened my eyes to some things.

I come from the jeep side where a "budget lift" is a regular and appropriate things.... with a budget lift you basically just put some spacers on top of the suspension to give you some quick increased clearance for larger tires.

The problem is that with an IFS, when you add lift in that way, without taking other things into account, you reach the limits of the front axles and CV joint angles.

The weird thing is that you can "safely" budget lift the lower trims but not the upper trims...

1623679399246.png


Ryan was able to shed some light on something that didn't make intuitive sense to me at first but it an important point:

On the Base-OB the shocks themselves don't have a very large range of motion. On the yellow bilsteins (BL and Sas), the travel is so much greater and you're already lifted, that they basically already allow for near maximum droop as far as the CVs are concerned.

What that means is that counterintuitively, it's easier to "cheaply" lift a lower trim Bronco than an upper trim....

The lower trim shocks don't allow the wheels to drop enough to create a problem if you add some spacers to raise the vehicle, so you can get a base up to squatch height pretty easy with a budget boost. On the upper trims if you add more lift with spacers the wheels can drop so far that you bind the axles and can create serious problems.

Ryan's point was that if you want to eventually get to a 3" lift for 37s... even if it's only a small increase over your BL or Sas height, you're already at the end of the CV capability. Starting with Sas doesn't mean you get to save money by just adding cheap spacers for the 37" clearance, you have to swap out coilovers and UCA anyway... So, if your plan is 37s, it may make more sense to *not* sas from the factory since you're going to have to replace those components anyway.

Granted, the Bilsteins, with their longer range of travel mean better articulation off road, but if your goal is to just lift your Bronco fast and cheap, it could potentially make more sense to go with a lower trim and add spacers.

(Of course, if you want to lift your BL or Sas, and aren't worried about damage that may occur if you were to hang one of your front wheels in the air... a spacer may be worth it to you... or if you're worried about damage but don't mind limiting droop, you could put limiter straps in or something... I'm sure we'll see plenty of different solutions once Broncos become more prolific.)

The more I think about this more clear (I think) things become to me.

Basically, here's the breakdown as I see it:

- If all you want is lift to clear 35" on the street, it's almost certainly cheaper to get a Base-OB and add a budget boost.
- If you want maximum off-road capability for 33-35" it's probably cheaper to Sas.
- If you want maximum off-road capability for 37" it's cheaper to go base and upgrade coilovers and UCA.


And here's the link to the video where Ryan very quickly talks about how a "level lift" (budget boost / spacer) wont work because of CV angles on the "Yellow Bilstein" (BL, SAS) equipped Broncos:

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-37”-tires-on-2021-bronco-4wp-explains.16623/
keep in mind though on a SAS, you get a M220 dif versus the M190. Much needed IMHO if your going to run 35’s or 37’s
 

Texasgrillchef

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For me, I went with SAS, because it’s the least expensive route to get to 37’s with a M220 diff, and all the other benefits and additions of the package..

if you take a base model, the. Add the left needed to get to 37’s and the cost of upgrading your diff to an M220, and upgrading your steering as well. you exceed the cost of the SAS with perch collars and spacers to get the same 37’s. especially if you have to pay for the labor to do all the work. If you do it yourself then it maybe cheaper. But if you’re paying labor. Forget it…
 

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snake2332

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Thanks for the database. I wanted to make sure I had the 4dr Hoss 3.0 take-offs that I bought for $800. Looks like there is only 1 spring, so no worries there, and the rear shock ends in KB so it's from a 4-door. The front shock ends in KC which isn't on the spreadsheet, so I'm guessing it's from a 4-door 2023 Wildtrak.

Going to go install them now - can't wait to hit some familiar bumps and washboard roads with them.
 

mpeugeot

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For me, I went with SAS, because it’s the least expensive route to get to 37’s with a M220 diff, and all the other benefits and additions of the package..

if you take a base model, the. Add the left needed to get to 37’s and the cost of upgrading your diff to an M220, and upgrading your steering as well. you exceed the cost of the SAS with perch collars and spacers to get the same 37’s. especially if you have to pay for the labor to do all the work. If you do it yourself then it maybe cheaper. But if you’re paying labor. Forget it…
All Broncos come with the M220 rear differential, I think that you mean the M210 front differential.

The cost to upgrade the M190 to M210 was $1500 for me and the HOSS 3.0 steering rack was under $1000 after core return.

$2500 is much less than the cost of the Sasquatch package, but doesn't consider labor, wheels, and tires. Which makes the Sasquatch package an excellent value.
 

TLO

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My loaded up 2 door Heritage (with winch) that I use for overlanding with RTT could use some help recovering some of the lost ground clearance.
I was thinking some 1 or 1.5" perch collars would help nicely (and help prevent hitting the bump stops as often as I am now), but...
I wonder if it'd be easier/less work swapping out the entire coil overs front and back with 4 door Sasquatch take-offs.
Certainly less dangerous than spring removal!
Are the actual spring rate differences going to amount to lifting up my 2 door an appreciable amount?

Do I have other practical options?
 

mpeugeot

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My loaded up 2 door Heritage (with winch) that I use for overlanding with RTT could use some help recovering some of the lost ground clearance.
I was thinking some 1 or 1.5" perch collars would help nicely (and help prevent hitting the bump stops as often as I am now), but...
I wonder if it'd be easier/less work swapping out the entire coil overs front and back with 4 door Sasquatch take-offs.
Certainly less dangerous than spring removal!
Are the actual spring rate differences going to amount to lifting up my 2 door an appreciable amount?

Do I have other practical options?
I would just go with a perch collar lift.

Other "affordable" options include the Ford Performance suspension (which is a lift) and Bilstein 6100's. Your other relatively low cost options are the Eibach Pro Truck 2.0 struts, but used you will see them $700-900, and new I have seen them from $1500-1800 (and once at $900 new when I purchased them).
 
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Tooold

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Sorry if I'm missing something or clarifying the obvious.

We Don't know the spring ratings for a specific spring part #?

As in: We are left to make assumptions regarding "spring rates" based off of Ford's listed "curb weight" for a specific "vin" or "modle"?
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