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What did you do TO / WITH your Bronco today? πŸ‘¨πŸ»β€πŸ”§πŸ§°πŸšΏπŸ› 

Ford Motor Company

First Edition
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Official Ford Account
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Ford
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Your Bronco Model
First Edition
Towed it to the dealership, parked it for 2 days, and had a completely dead battery.

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Good afternoon. Would you please send over a private message with your VIN and dealer info so I can look into this concern with your Bronco's battery?
 

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cynicalrider

Wildtrak
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Wildtrak
Clubs
 
I hate that it happened, but the UCA was obviously unbolted at some point to get the aftermarket coilovers installed. It looks like it wasn't torqued correctly and worked loose causing the thread damage - not seeing how that could be Ford's fault...
This was my thought as well.
 

Ninjak

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Installed a MBRP Cat-back Dual exhaust & a Ford Performance Differential Cover that I coated with blue anodize Metalcast.

DUAL2.jpg
How does the exhaust sound? Looks good. Also what is in your tow receiver? That looks interesting. I will likely never tow anything, so having something like that would be nice.
 

jatt143

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Clubs
 
Good afternoon. Would you please send over a private message with your VIN and dealer info so I can look into this concern with your Bronco's battery?
It's already taken care of. dealership replaced with a new battery. Thank you!
 

lwilliams34

Big Bend
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Clubs
 
Thank you! :thumbsup:

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Redline Tuning is pleased to be a sponsor on the Bronco6G forum and want to showcase our 100% Bolt-In Hood QuickLIFT system for the Bronco. Our system is the ORIGINAL Bolt-In system for the Bronco and installs in less than 10 minutes with no modification required to your vehicle or for you to un-bolt you hood to mount any brackets. We offer two different lift heights for the Bronco. Our standard QuickLIFT system raises your hood to the same height as the factory Prop Rod and our Max Lift system raises the hood 8 inches higher for maximum access to the engine compartment. Both systems are available in PLUS, Carbon and ELITE versions as shown below.

bronco-maxlift-jpg-jpg-jpg.jpg



bronco-quicklift-plus-jpg-jpg-jpg.jpg





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QuickLIFT PLUS features:
* All black powder-coated mounting hardware
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available directly from our website here:
QuickLIFT (same height as stock)
https://www.redlinetuning.com/2021-Ford-Bronco-Hood-QuickLIFT-PLUS-p/21-11040-02.htm
MaxLift (8" higher than stock)
https://www.redlinetuning.com/2021-Ford-Bronco-Hood-QuickLIFT-PLUS-p/21-11039-02.htm

bronco-maxlift-carbon-jpg-jpg-jpg.jpg




QuickLIFT CARBON features:
* All black powder-coated mounting hardware
* Black e-coated gas springs with real carbon fiber sleeves
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available directly from our website here:
To add the Carbon option check the box show below on our website:
carbon-jpg-jpg-jpg.jpg



QuickLIFT (same height as stock)
https://www.redlinetuning.com/2021-Ford-Bronco-Hood-QuickLIFT-PLUS-p/21-11040-02.htm
MaxLift (8" higher than stock)
https://www.redlinetuning.com/2021-Ford-Bronco-Hood-QuickLIFT-PLUS-p/21-11039-02.htm

bronco-maxlift-elite-jpg-jpg-jpg.jpg




QuickLIFT ELITE features:
* All black powder-coated mounting hardware
* 316L Stainless Steel gas springs
* 5 year warranty
available directly from our website here:
QuickLIFT (same height as stock)
https://www.redlinetuning.com/2021-Ford-Bronco-Hood-QuickLIFT-ELITE-p/21-11040-03.htm
MaxLift (8" higher than stock)
https://www.redlinetuning.com/2021-Ford-Bronco-Hood-QuickLIFT-ELITE-p/21-11039-03.htm


Free shipping in the CON. U.S. on all Bronco systems using coupon code "Bronco6G" at checkout.

You can watch the video below to see how easy our installation is, the only tool required is a 13mm socket:





Here is a video of the different gas spring finishes and the system in action:



Redline Tuning has been developing our Hood QuickLIFT systems for over 20 years and have applications for over 350 unique vehicles, check out our website for your vehicle application.

Please contact us for any questions.
Just ordered the Redline Hood Struts for my Big Bend. Have them on my Shelby GT350 and love them!
 

JJHTX

Black Diamond
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Yesterday. Went here, then later on Imogene did this.
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Man that sucks; sorry that happened to you. I saw your Bronco (in working order) this week on the trails (I did Yankee Boy Basin, Ophir, Imogene). Mine is also a BD 2.3/auto non-sas (35s and Ford Performance Coilovers)

Ford Bronco What did you do TO / WITH your Bronco today? πŸ‘¨πŸ»β€πŸ”§πŸ§°πŸšΏπŸ›  IMG_6066
 

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redvettx2

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Black Diamond
Installed a MBRP Cat-back Dual exhaust & a Ford Performance Differential Cover that I coated with blue anodize Metalcast.

DUAL2.jpg
My Favorite Build. Love this rig. Great job.
 

Fordified1

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Clubs
 
I hate that it happened, but the UCA was obviously unbolted at some point to get the aftermarket coilovers installed. It looks like it wasn't torqued correctly and worked loose causing the thread damage - not seeing how that could be Ford's fault...
Was my fault for not replacing the nut that Ford says throw away after one use. I did torque it correctly and it seemed to have proper resistance a lock nut should have when I put it back into place.
Ford somewhat at fault for going cheap with the ball joints in that they are small and use single-use fasteners. A proper ball joint used to always have a reusable castle nut with a cotter pin. 12mm is tiny in my opinion, and too small to drill for a cotter pin without weakening it significantly, thus why they use lock-nuts. This is all bean-counter stuff in my opinion. I’m taking the financial hit and learned something about this newer junk.
 

Fordified1

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Clubs
 
Stock UCA's? Stock shocks? Curious to what caused this. Also interested to see if it's repair will be under warranty if it's the stock UCA/UBJ.
All stock except Eibach Pro Truck 2.0 coilovers. (which are fantastic on slow technical trails btw) Not going to attempt to get warranty.
Was that ball joint separated when the lift was installed?
My guess is that the thread damage was caused by a loose fastener. The clunking you heard.
Maybe the thread damage was caused by over torque during install?
I re-used nuts that Ford recommends throwing away after one use. They still went back on with normal lock-nut resistance and I torqued them to spec, so never gave what I have done dozens of times on other vehicles a second thought. I did learn an expensive lesson but in my opinion the ball joints are way too small for an off-road worthy truck and should have had castle nuts with cotter-pins instead of lock nuts.
EDIT: And my friend who helped me repair it pointed out that his jeep has castle nuts with cotter pins on the ball joints.
 
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