Sub not turning on.

[kcjaman79]

Hi there. I have a new 23 Big Bend SAS (2000 miles) mid package and at times it takes a while for the sub to kick in. Yes I actually have the full 7 speaker system non-B&O. I would assume that it only powers on when it senses signal from the main unit however I often have to turn it up past 17 or so and power it off and on many times then finally the bass kicks in from the sub. Has anyone else experienced this? I don't want a dealer trip just for that but not sure if it's a bad amp or just something loose. This speakers systems not the best but is total crap without the sub working.

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[Bkbk]

This happens to me all the time. Turning up above 15 or so seems to get it to turn on, but nothing is consistent. I'm already planning to replace all the speakers and sub so I'm not bothering with the dealership.

 

[2022 base]

Hi there. I have a new 23 Big Bend SAS (2000 miles) mid package and at times it takes a while for the sub to kick in. Yes I actually have the full 7 speaker system non-B&O. I would assume that it only powers on when it senses signal from the main unit however I often have to turn it up past 17 or so and power it off and on many times then finally the bass kicks in from the sub. Has anyone else experienced this? I don't want a dealer trip just for that but not sure if it's a bad amp or just something loose. This speakers systems not the best but is total crap without the sub working.

It could be a bad voice coil and when you turn it up the woofer moves enough to play. You may need to bring it in. Other than the woofer coil, it could be the amp. Either way you may need to take it in.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

Hi there. I have a new 23 Big Bend SAS (2000 miles) mid package and at times it takes a while for the sub to kick in. Yes I actually have the full 7 speaker system non-B&O. I would assume that it only powers on when it senses signal from the main unit however I often have to turn it up past 17 or so and power it off and on many times then finally the bass kicks in from the sub. Has anyone else experienced this? I don't want a dealer trip just for that but not sure if it's a bad amp or just something loose. This speakers systems not the best but is total crap without the sub working.

Hi there! Will you send us a message with your VIN and your local Ford dealer? I can look into things on my end.

 

[kcjaman79]

It could be a bad voice coil and when you turn it up the woofer moves enough to play. You may need to bring it in. Other than the woofer coil, it could be the amp. Either way you may need to take it in.

I know that is not the issue. Once it comes on I can turn down to lower level and have the full bass response from the sub. Thanks for thought.

 

[kcjaman79]

Hi there! Will you send us a message with your VIN and your local Ford dealer? I can look into things on my end.

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[Sardine]

I'm having this issue after adding in the Ford Fusion amp and Kicker sub. My Bronco came with the sub delete so I did the mod everyone was doing.

My sub only kicks on if I raise the volume past a certain mark. Once it kicks on it functions normally for the entirety of the ride until the car is turned off.

After research, apparently the amp might not be receiving enough "kick on" voltage to turn on. It only receives enough once the volume is high.

The fix is to install something like this apparently: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541TR4/PAC-TR-4-Trigger-Module.html

So weird it's happening to someone with a stock B&O system, though.

 

[mack6319]

Anyone find a cause or a solution for this? My new ‘23 Big bend does this. 7 speaker system with sub. I don’t want to waste my time at the dealer if there’s an easy fix.

 

[kcjaman79]

Basically no! Every time I have had it at the dealer and actually showed the service writer (and he said yea it's not on), they come back and say nothing is wrong. The tech said it was working. Well I have told them after a key cycle or turning it up loud it will work as it is supposed to. Its dumb that these techs put no investigative effort to solve issues. It still drives me nuts and hurts my dogs ears when I crank it past 20 for many seconds until it kicks in. I am stuck for now dealing with it until it's next visit where I will ask them to drag the damn tech out while I wait so I can prove to them it's screwed up.

I feel that the amp is not receiving ample signal from the head unit thus why it's not triggered to turn on which is how a lot of aftermarket amps work I think. IMO it should turn on as soon as the button for the radio or ignition is pressed.

 

[SubmarineNuke]

There's a few different ways, but we don't usually discuss my turn ons on a car forum. That's really bad form

 

[slow3v]

I know it's an old thread but I'm having the same exact issue on my 23 BD. Does anyone have any idea what causes this? Maybe updating modules in FDRS will help. I'll let you know when I get around to it.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

I know it's an old thread but I'm having the same exact issue on my 23 BD. Does anyone have any idea what causes this? Maybe updating modules in FDRS will help. I'll let you know when I get around to it.

Good morning! I would be glad to help you out with these sub speaker concerns should you need further assistance. Just shoot us a direct message with your VIN and dealer name/location, and I'll get right on it. To send a direct message, just click on our username and select "Send Direct Message". Thank you!

 

[kcjaman79]

I thought a software update fixed it as it seemed to work like normal and my sound settings were all reset. But it still does it off and on. I have to blast it for it to kick in. I gave up on the dealer trying to do anything about it. Its just a dumb fault that should not be in a $50k+ vehicle.

 

[Brian_B]

This ~shouldn't~ be happening with an OEM amp installed - but if you've given up on warranty support, a lot of folks that were using Fusion (or other) amps found that some of those factory amps were looking for a 12V power on signal, but the Bronco (for whatever reason) only uses about 6V. Same symptoms as what you guys are saying though - turns off randomly, will usually turn back on if you crank the volume.

They were solving it by using one of these on the remote turn-on line:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541TR4/PAC-TR-4-Trigger-Module.html

You'd need the wiring diagram for the factory harness to install that (I don't have a bookmark handy but I know it's around here somewhere), and it would take a bit of splicing, but shouldn't have to pull any wires.

*edit* Found the diagram
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...h-real-sub-wiring-diagram.69097/#post-1851862
The amp is labeled "DSP" in this - even though it really isn't digital... the EN/CLIP line is the one that was the culprit for the people getting third party Ford amps.

Can't guarantee that's your issue - it could just be a failing amp. It's cheap to try, but getting at the amp itself is a hassle and if I were going to the trouble of breaking in there, I would go in there with the mindset of just upgrading it at the same time.

 

[CartierChiro]

This ~shouldn't~ be happening with an OEM amp installed - but if you've given up on warranty support, a lot of folks that were using Fusion (or other) amps found that some of those factory amps were looking for a 12V power on signal, but the Bronco (for whatever reason) only uses about 6V. Same symptoms as what you guys are saying though - turns off randomly, will usually turn back on if you crank the volume.

They were solving it by using one of these on the remote turn-on line:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541TR4/PAC-TR-4-Trigger-Module.html

You'd need the wiring diagram for the factory harness to install that (I don't have a bookmark handy but I know it's around here somewhere), and it would take a bit of splicing, but shouldn't have to pull any wires.

Can't guarantee that's your issue - it could just be a failing amp. It's cheap to try, but getting at the amp itself is a hassle and if I were going to the trouble of breaking in there, I would go in there with the mindset of just upgrading it at the same time.

Would you still need that little doohickey if you’re upgrading the amp as well? Or is it one of those things to have now just as a precaution

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