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Yeah that comes straight from the workshop manual. I am pretty sure it actually states 18 degrees.
I will dig out the text and post it here when I have some time. I am traveling this week.
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@AonarchFrom the workshop manual.
Halfshaft
Special Tool(s) / General Equipment
Removal
Tire Lever
NOTICE: Do not hold the halfshaft by the CV joint.
NOTICE: The inner CV joint must not be bent more than 18°.
I think limit straps are definitely an option, but maybe not the option leaving the most performance on the table. A diff drop that drops all 3 mounts even just an inch would reduce angles pretty significantly, and still allow for the full travel range we see out of pretty much every coilover setup available.Seems pretty clear at this point that someone needs to make a limit strap kit for these extended length shocks. Seems like we would need a 90deg tab on the top of one of the bar pin bolts.
Fair point, we need all the droop we can get. Will be interesting to see your results, and how much it actually helps and how much u need to lower the skid plate. Did you just get a spacer one?I think limit straps are definitely an option, but maybe not the option leaving the most performance on the table. A diff drop that drops all 3 mounts even just an inch would reduce angles pretty significantly, and still allow for the full travel range we see out of pretty much every coilover setup available.
I ordered a T6 Ranger diff drop from across the pond to see how well everything fits and what I'll need to fab up to make it work.
Yea I'll definitely have to notch the diff skid at a minimum even more than it is already for the rc diff drop. I ordered the full t6 ranger "bolt-on" kit but I really only wanted their upper mount spacer and the driveshaft spacer. The overseas ranger kit drops all 3 mounts unlike the diff drops we have here that only drop the front of the diff half inch or so. I'll have to either just space out the passenger side with washers or come up with a new bracket, and then I plan on taking the front mount as it goes. If I can use the one they send great, if not I'll build or modify what I have between theirs and the RC bracket. I believe the kit I bought said it moves the diff down a full inch and forward 20mm or so. From what I can tell this will barely clear the cross member.Fair point, we need all the droop we can get. Will be interesting to see your results, and how much it actually helps and how much u need to lower the skid plate. Did you just get a spacer one?
Yeah, a decent well thought out diff drop is definitely needed. All the ones out there seem like a quick fix afterthought. Dropping only the front two mounts. Post your results when you finish. I would be curious how the interface with the drive shaft works out.Yea I'll definitely have to notch the diff skid at a minimum even more than it is already for the rc diff drop. I ordered the full t6 ranger "bolt-on" kit but I really only wanted their upper mount spacer and the driveshaft spacer. The overseas ranger kit drops all 3 mounts unlike the diff drops we have here that only drop the front of the diff half inch or so. I'll have to either just space out the passenger side with washers or come up with a new bracket, and then I plan on taking the front mount as it goes. If I can use the one they send great, if not I'll build or modify what I have between theirs and the RC bracket. I believe the kit I bought said it moves the diff down a full inch and forward 20mm or so. From what I can tell this will barely clear the cross member.
All will be experimental and I'm not expecting it for a couple weeks still, but it was fairly cheap just comes from Australia lol
I called RC but it seems they are catching on and refuse to sell their diff drop separately from their lift kits. I decided to build my own drop bracket, I will post a thread when I get it all installed.Yeah, a decent well thought out diff drop is definitely needed. All the ones out there seem like a quick fix afterthought. Dropping only the front two mounts. Post your results when you finish. I would be curious how the interface with the drive shaft works out.
Only an issue is you don't run bump stops. Also the more you lift the more you adjust out your lower control arms which extend the shafts.I called RC but it seems they are catching on and refuse to sell their diff drop separately from their lift kits. I decided to build my own drop bracket, I will post a thread when I get it all installed.
It is not as intuitive as it might seem, as much as i'd like to drop everything equally straight down at all 3 points of contact, the rear contact is very difficult to drop since it has a weld nut and stud in place that need to be removed. Big Meats has a good thread on how he got around that, but its a chore. Mine will mostly drop the front, and right side, and add an extension plate to the back to help compensate for the slight rotation downward.
The second important thing that must be considered is CV plunge. If you are using a diff drop, and not dropping the lower control arms and using taller knuckles, you will be introducing extra plunge in the half shafts as they are misaligned to the geometry of the suspension. By my calculations 20mm of diff drop is the limit (with stock suspension hardpoints, no cradle drop) where you use up all the half shaft plunge. Dropping lower than that will compress or pull the CV's further than they are designed to travel which is certainly worse than a slightly higher CV angle. Even dropping 20mm will reduce max angle by more than 10%!
The CV limit is more in full rebound than jounce when running extended travel coil overs (I am running Icon). With the half shaft travel set in its center at ride height (stock everything), you run into the compression limit at full rebound at 20mm drop. Actually, it's already exceeding by a mil or two but that's fine by me, bushings are compliant.Only an issue is you don't run bump stops. Also the more you lift the more you adjust out your lower control arms which extend the shafts.
do you have numbers for oem internal CV travel limits?The CV limit is more in full rebound than jounce when running extended travel coil overs (I am running Icon). With the half shaft travel set in its center at ride height (stock everything), you run into the compression limit at full rebound at 20mm drop. Actually, it's already exceeding by a mil or two but that's fine by me, bushings are compliant.
You can get a bit more drop by pulling the LCA's out like you said, but you will quickly then run into the pull-out limit in jounce, maybe you could run 25mm safely. Regardless, if you don't have adjustable UCA's you will quickly run into camber problems by pulling the LCA's out.
20mm is the sweet spot for happy CV travel and angle IMO. I'd rather beef up the CV's than run more drop at that point. No way 1.5" drop (~35-40mm) on stock half shafts is not hitting travel limits internally.