Rear door twisting

[Brian_B]

So, I just noticed this today. My rear door is twisting. It looks fine at the hinges. At the latch, the top is pulling out by about 1/4” and the bottom is sunk in by about 1/4”

It does rattle a bit now, but feels tight and doesn’t have any abnormal play. The door opens and closes fine.

When I bought this - it had installed by the dealer 35” MTs. They didn’t do anything extra to the rear spare bracket.

Is this just a case of rub some more dirt on it and don’t worry? Is this a classic case of sag and a reinforcement will fix it up? Is this something I should go back to the dealer about since they added the tires (not at my specific request, although I’m sure there is some fine print somewhere that excuses any liability)? Any other suggestions or advice?

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[PWillette]

The tailgate is rated for 120lbs I believe so it should be able to support a 35" tire/wheel. If overloaded the tailgate will typically will sag...I haven't heard of one twisting unless impacted. Did you try adjusting the rubber bump stop (just above the latch inside the jamb)?

 

[broadicustomworks]

Looks like an impact result. Not catastrophic impact, but one enough to tweak the gate. Maybe as simple as someone backing into your tire at a parking lot if you don't recall anything you might have done to tweak it.

I had similar from a poor choice in Moab for a while.
You can adjust a lot of that out via adjusting the striker (it moves in 4 directions, so be mindful a small increment makes a big difference, do a little, check it, adjust accordingly until you get what you are looking for). At least for the bottom.

For the top, see if it is even making contact with the bump stop before adjusting it.

If it were me, here is what I would do (and it sounds brutal), and what I have to do to fit a lot of aftermarket doors on old stuff I restore:

Open the gate, stand on the inside of it.
Grab the top with your hands, put a knee low against the bottom edge.
Pull the top towards you while pushing against the bottom with your knee a couple of times.
Shut it and see if you made any progress.
Repeat if not.

There is also adjustment on the inner side with the hinges, even more if you remove the passenger tail light.
But be aware if you go messing with that you could end up with the passenger side no longer being lined up while trying to get the driver's side aligned.

It's a lot of trial and error.

EDIT: As an even more "backyard" way you can wrap a piece of 2X4 in a microfiber and place it along the bottom inner jamb and push on the door. Again, start small with the force and increase as only necessary to get movement.

 

[coadr]

It might not be bent! There's a small bumpstop on the hinge side of the tailgate, try twisting it clockwise to recess it more which should pull the top in. Additionally, I ended up taking my entire tailgate off when I installed my reinforcement and was able to align it perfectly afterwards if you're open to breaking out the tools.

 

[mike8675309]

2022 2 Door Sasquatch. I've been bouncing around off-road this summer and just took a look. I don't have a problem. Are the various bumpers used to tension the non-hinged side out of adjustment on yours?

 

[userdude]

Looks like an impact result. Not catastrophic impact, but one enough to tweak the gate. Maybe as simple as someone backing into your tire at a parking lot if you don't recall anything you might have done to tweak it.

I had similar from a poor choice in Moab for a while.
You can adjust a lot of that out via adjusting the striker (it moves in 4 directions, so be mindful a small increment makes a big difference, do a little, check it, adjust accordingly until you get what you are looking for). At least for the bottom.

For the top, see if it is even making contact with the bump stop before adjusting it.

If it were me, here is what I would do (and it sounds brutal), and what I have to do to fit a lot of aftermarket doors on old stuff I restore:

Open the gate, stand on the inside of it.
Grab the top with your hands, put a knee low against the bottom edge.
Pull the top towards you while pushing against the bottom with your knee a couple of times.
Shut it and see if you made any progress.
Repeat if not.

There is also adjustment on the inner side with the hinges, even more if you remove the passenger tail light.
But be aware if you go messing with that you could end up with the passenger side no longer being lined up while trying to get the driver's side aligned.

It's a lot of trial and error.

EDIT: As an even more "backyard" way you can wrap a piece of 2X4 in a microfiber and place it along the bottom inner jamb and push on the door. Again, start small with the force and increase as only necessary to get movement.

This reminded me of the electrician I used to work with who had been a tow truck driver. He locked his keys in his Astro van (remember those?) one day and before I knew, he was bending the back top corner back with, ahem!, a lot of force. He then got a wire coat hanger and pulled the lock, then bent it back. I was like, WTH!

 

[BlueBronco]

The tailgate is rated for 120lbs I believe so it should be able to support a 35" tire/wheel.

For the record...

Tailgate is rated for 133lbs.

 

[Brian_B]

Did you try adjusting the rubber bump stop (just above the latch inside the jamb)?

It might not be bent! There's a small bumpstop on the hinge side of the tailgate,

Good call - I had not played with that. There was a bit of adjustment inward that I could make, that brought the top almost in line, but with the stop buried I couldn't get it perfect. I tried to adjust the plate it hits against on the tailgate, but it didn't have any adjustment to it.

You can adjust a lot of that out via adjusting the striker

Which striker are you referring to? I tried adjusting the striker where the bottom support peg hits, but it didn't have any real play in it.

Pull the top towards you while pushing against the bottom with your knee a couple of times.

Oh man, I tried this this morning. That door is pretty stout, I nearly took out my kneecap. I think I'll have to drop the tire off and maybe get some more mechanical advantage to make that do anything.

Additionally, I ended up taking my entire tailgate off when I installed my reinforcement and was able to align it perfectly afterwards if you're open to breaking out the tools.

I'm leaning this direction - how hard was it to realign?

 

[Shawn_1121]

It might not be bent! There's a small bumpstop on the hinge side of the tailgate, try twisting it clockwise to recess it more which should pull the top in. Additionally, I ended up taking my entire tailgate off when I installed my reinforcement and was able to align it perfectly afterwards if you're open to breaking out the tools.

tell me more about this ford performance tailgate bracket and how much you like the spare tire mount from AAL

 

[broadicustomworks]

Which striker are you referring to? I tried adjusting the striker where the bottom support peg hits, but it didn't have any real play in it. The post that sticks out.
Shown here with arrows, 5 bolts to loosen.

Oh man, I tried this this morning. That door is pretty stout, I nearly took out my kneecap. I think I'll have to drop the tire off and maybe get some more mechanical advantage to make that do anything.
You can also try removing the tire carrier (8bolts), which would take out a ton of rigidity.
You will be amazed at just how thin the gate is once you do that, or take that “bump out” plastic cover off and peer inside it.

 

[coadr]

tell me more about this ford performance tailgate bracket and how much you like the spare tire mount from AAL

Sourced the Raptor hinges and bracket through flip's store, required trimming just a bit off one corner of the stock spare tire carrier. And then I used a 1.25" spacer to push the spare out and fit the AAL carrier over top! Tbh I don't keep the carrier on a lot of the time, especially since I just installed the TrailRax rack this past weekend so I think my traction boards and rotopax will transition onto that soon.

 

[broadicustomworks]

Sourced the Raptor hinges and bracket through flip's store, required trimming just a bit off one corner of the stock spare tire carrier. And then I used a 1.25" spacer to push the spare out and fit the AAL carrier over top! Tbh I don't keep the carrier on a lot of the time, especially since I just installed the TrailRax rack this past weekend so I think my traction boards and rotopax will transition onto that soon.

I've been eyeing that AAL carrier for a while now.
Was hoping to catch a BF sale I couldn't pass up.
Seems handier than handles on a box.

 

[Shawn_1121]

Sourced the Raptor hinges and bracket through flip's store, required trimming just a bit off one corner of the stock spare tire carrier. And then I used a 1.25" spacer to push the spare out and fit the AAL carrier over top! Tbh I don't keep the carrier on a lot of the time, especially since I just installed the TrailRax rack this past weekend so I think my traction boards and rotopax will transition onto that soon.

if you ever think of selling the spare tire mount, lmk

 

[Dadsquatch]

Which hard top do you have? Anderson? It looks textured. Just wondering if an aftermarket hard top may be the cause in any way due to the back window where it marries up to the tailgate. Longshot, but something I noticed.

 

[flip]

Tailgate Alignment
Inspection

NOTE: Removal steps in this procedure may contain installation details.

1. Check tailgate-to-body dimensions.

Adjustment

All alignments

1. Remove the nuts and the spares wheel.
   Torque: 41 lb.ft (55 Nm)

1. Open the tailgate about 5 to 10 degrees.

1. Note down the movement in tailgate due to spare wheel removal. Noted movement due to tire weight should be accounted during final alignment.

Tailgate left and right, up and down alignment

1. Remove the RH rear lamp assembly.
   Refer to: Rear Lamp Assembly (417-01 Exterior Lighting, Removal and Installation).

1. Open the tailgate.

1. 1. Remove the bump stop.
2. 1. Remove the bolts and the striker.
3. 1. Loosen the bolts.
      Loosen:
      : 2 turn(s)

1. Loosen the bolts.
   Loosen:
   : 2 turn(s)

1. Adjust the tailgate as required.

1. Tighten the bolts.
   Torque: 30 lb.ft (40 Nm)

1. Open the tailgate.

1. 1. Tighten the bolts.
      Torque: 17 lb.ft (23 Nm)
2. 1. Install the striker and the bolts.
      Torque: 18 lb.ft (25 Nm)
3. 1. Install the bump stop.
      Torque: 22 lb.ft (30 Nm)

1. Install the RH rear lamp assembly.
   Refer to: Rear Lamp Assembly (417-01 Exterior Lighting, Removal and Installation).

Tailgate in and out alignment - on hinge side

1. Open the tailgate.

1. Remove the fasteners and the tailgate hinge cover.

1. Mark the location of the tailgate hinge to aid in installation.

1. Loosen the bolts.
   Loosen:
   : 2 turn(s)

1. Close the tailgate.

1. Adjust the tailgate as required.

1. Open the tailgate.

1. Tighten the bolts.
   Torque: 30 lb.ft (40 Nm)

Tailgate in and out alignment - on latch side

1. 1. Remove the bump stop.
2. 1. Remove the bolts and the striker.
3. 1. Loosen the bolts.
      Loosen:
      : 2 turn(s)

1. Close the tailgate.

1. Adjust the tailgate as required.

1. Open the tailgate about 5 to 10 degrees.

1. Note down the movement in tailgate due to spare wheel removal. Noted movement due to tire weight should be accounted during final alignment.

1. 1. Tighten the bolts.
      Torque: 17 lb.ft (23 Nm)
2. 1. Install the striker and the bolts.
      Torque: 18 lb.ft (25 Nm)
3. 1. Install the bump stop.
      Torque: 22 lb.ft (30 Nm)

1. Close the tailgate.

All alignments

1. Install the spare wheel and the nuts.
   Torque: 41 lb.ft (55 Nm)

1. Inspect the body-to-tailgate door dimensions.

1. Install the positioned aside and removed components.

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