[How-To] Subwoofer Upgrade - Replacing/Upgrading the Factory Sub

[DrTiki]

Has anyone replace the B&O sub with an 8" Kicker but used the factor amp?
Have our Bronco on order, but trying to priortize which upgrades to do first and I have seen mixed reviews on the B&O sound quality, specificaly the sub.
Thanks

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[RagnarKon]

Has anyone replace the B&O sub with an 8" Kicker but used the factor amp?
Have our Bronco on order, but trying to priortize which upgrades to do first and I have seen mixed reviews on the B&O sound quality, specificaly the sub.
Thanks

The B&O system is actually pretty good, but it's definitely not what I would consider a "Premium" sound system, despite the fact that it's marketed as such. So if you bought the Lux package expecting it to be a premium factory sound system... well... temper your expectations. The premium sound systems on other vehicles—and even the B&O packages on Ford's other vehicles—are MUCH better.

I would just wait until you get your Bronco and decide where to go from there. Unfortunately the B&O package is difficult and pricey to upgrade... you can't really do a piece-meal upgrade like you can with the standard audio system. I suspect if you really care about audio you're going to want to install an aftermarket amplifier, which... because the B&O package is an 8-channel system, means you'll be spending $800+ on amplifiers alone.

 

[DrTiki]

The B&O system is actually pretty good, but it's definitely not what I would consider a "Premium" sound system, despite the fact that it's marketed as such. So if you bought the Lux package expecting it to be a premium factory sound system... well... temper your expectations. The premium sound systems on other vehicles—and even the B&O packages on Ford's other vehicles—are MUCH better.

I would just wait until you get your Bronco and decide where to go from there. Unfortunately the B&O package is difficult and pricey to upgrade... you can't really do a piece-meal upgrade like you can with the standard audio system. I suspect if you really care about audio you're going to want to install an aftermarket amplifier, which... because the B&O package is an 8-channel system, means you'll be spending $800+ on amplifiers alone.

Thanks . . . I drove a couple with the B&O when we were shopping and it was decent. I think it is better than the Wrangle Alpine system my wife has and definately better than the stock system that is in my F150.
I have just read a lot of people have been disappointed in the overall bass quality of the system.

 

[RagnarKon]

Thanks . . . I drove a couple with the B&O when we were shopping and it was decent. I think it is better than the Wrangle Alpine system my wife has and definately better than the stock system that is in my F150.
I have just read a lot of people have been disappointed in the overall bass quality of the system.

Yeah on most premium audio systems most of the bass actually comes from the speakers in the door, and then the subwoofer is there to just emphasize and round-out the low-end below ~60 Hz or so.

The Bronco doesn't have speakers in the door... so... it's really up to the subwoofer. The kick panels do contribute a little bit, but because they're tucked down by your feet they don't do much.

 

[mclaffer]

If you watched my last video you will know that I installed the B&O subwoofer. This time I have upgraded that B&O subwoofer with a Kicker 8" sub!

Check below the video for a TON more information that I've collected.

Other videos/guides I've created on the topic of audio upgrades:

• [How-To] Factory Bronco Speaker Replacement
• [How-To] Amp Install - Kicker Key 200.4
• [How-To] FORScan Audio/Speaker Mods
• [How-To] Subwoofer Upgrade - Trim panel removal & Kicker install

AUDIO SYSTEM VARIANTS

As of now (mid-2023) there are four variants of audio systems in the Bronco. How you add/upgrade your subwoofer will depend on which setup you have.

2021 - 2022MY Six-Speaker
This was the audio system that was included in all non-Lux packaged Broncos. There is NO factory subwoofer, nor is any wiring available to support a subwoofer.

2023MY Seven-Speaker
Included in early 2023MY Broncos. This is identical to the 2021 - 2022MY setup, with the addition of an amplifier and a subwoofer.

2023MY Seven-Speaker with Sub Delete
Ford messed up and ran out of subwoofer components. Functionally the same as the 2021 - 2022MY setup. HOWEVER, it contains the wiring and enclosure necessary to hook up a subwoofer & amplifier.

2021 - 2023 B&O
This is the premium audio system included with the Lux package. There are 7 speakers with a single subwoofer measuring roughly 8" in size (a little less than 8" to be exact).

PICKING YOUR SUBWOOFER

At a high level... there are three decisions you need to make when picking a subwoofer:

• Voice Coil Impedance
• Speaker diameter & depth
• RMS power requirements

In addition those three items, there are other specifications such as frequency response, sensitivity, etc. etc. Most people will not have to worry about these items unless they are really trying to optimize their setups. Given I am gearing this post more towards the novice DIY type... I am going to ignore these items. However, you are free to ask questions about these topics or look online. In addition, if any of you car audio pros feel like there is an important aspect I am ignoring... post in in the comments.

Voice Coil Impedance

You will find that subwoofers intended for car audio generally come in two impedance ratings: 2Ω and 4Ω. There is a lot of electrical and power engineering I could dig into, but just to generalize it:

2Ω voice coils will be much louder and more more "boomy", as they can handle more power flowing through the voice coils. Those who dislike 2Ω voice coils often describe it as sounding very "sloppy", while those that like it often describe the bass as very "full" sounding. If you are driving those 2Ω voice coils with an underpowered amplifier, you run the risk of overheating your amplifier and/or creating very "muddy" sounding bass.

4Ω voice coils will have a more tight and clean sound. Uses less power than 2Ω voice coils, and generally more "safer" for underpowered amplifiers. For this reason... if you are running a factory amplifier rather than aftermarket, I generally recommend sticking with 4Ω voice coils. Those who like the sound of a 4Ω subwoofer would describe it as "accurate" sounding, while someone who dislikes 4Ω voice coils will often say it sounds "constrained".

Speaker Diameter

Generally speaking, the bigger the subwoofer the better. BUT, the bigger the subwoofer the more power and space it will require. Unless you are willing to devote your entire cargo space to a subwoofer, most of us will have to come up with some sort of compromise when it comes to the size of the subwoofer.

If you are mounting your subwoofer in the factory location—in the cargo area passenger side panel—you have two sizes available: 6.75" and 8" subwoofer speakers. BUT, there is aftermarket enclosures available—more on this in the enclosure section.

Obviously your subwoofer will need to be able to physically mount inside of whatever enclosure you select. This will be highly dependent on which enclosure and subwoofer you select, and there is a near-infinite amount of combinations available. The only real advice I can give here is "RTFM and measure before buying".

RMS Power Requirements

Obviously you need to pick an amplifier that is capable of powering your subwoofer. More on that in the next section...

PICKING YOUR AMPLIFIER

There is a TON of amplifiers out there in the marketplace. I definitely encourage you to shop around, and gather suggestions from the forum.

One of the more popular amplifiers is the Kicker Key 500.1, which is the amplifier I personally selected—largely because it was compatible with the Plug-n-Play Kit I bought. My brother—who generally knows more than me about car audio—also suggested the Kicker CX series of amplifiers. In my past I would have highly suggested AudioControl amplifiers, but admittedly I have zero experience with their current product offerings.

Arguably the most important part of any subwoofer amplifier is the amount of power it can deliver at a given impedance rating. It's probably easiest to explain this using an example...

Pretend I have selected the following components:

• Amp: Kicker Key 500.1
• Sub: Kicker Comp RT 48CWRT84

The amplifier I have selected has the following specifications. Notice that the maximum power output of the amplifier depends on the impedance rating of the subwoofer.

The subwoofer has the following specifications. Notice the recommended amplifier power is 300 watts. This is the recommended power output when the subwoofer's voice coils is wired in parallel.

What does this parallel business mean?? Well... there is two ways to wire a dual voice coil subwoofer. If you wire subwoofer in parallel, the impedance rating seen by the amplifier is HALF of the value of the voice coil rating. If you wire the amplifier in series, the impedance is DOUBLE the value of the voice coil rating. A 2Ω subwoofer in parallel will cause the amplifier to see 1Ω of impedance. If that same subwoofer is wired in series, the amplifier will see 4Ω of impedance. Wiring diagrams below:

In this case, our subwoofer has 4Ω voice coils, and when wired in parallel, the impedance seen by the amplifier is 2Ω. The Kicker Key 500.1 is rated for 300 watts and 2Ω impedance, which matches the subwoofer's requirements. So we're good to go.

Modern amplifiers are also typically packed with a ton of added features that you may or may not find helpful. Definitely read user manuals, check out reviews online, etc. etc.

SUBWOOFER ENCLOSURE

General speaking there are three choices for subwoofer enclosures:

• Using a powered subwoofer. This has the amplifier, the subwoofer speaker, and the enclosure in a single unit. The Kicker Hideaway series is a popular example of a powered subwoofer.
• Using an external enclosure. This can be as simple as an standard subwoofer box you stick in your cargo area, an enclosure that mounts to your tailgate—such as the Stinger TXFBB12, or even a DIY box you built yourself.
• Mounting it to the factory location. Three options for this:
  • 2023MY base audio enclosure - 170mm enclosure (~6.75")
  • B&O enclosure - 200mm enclosure (~8")
  • Aftermarket enclosure, such as the JL Audio Stealthbox.

Personally, I like the factory location as I value my cargo space, but obviously the choice is yours.

Whichever you decide... check your measurements.

HOW TO WIRE YOUR SUBWOOFER AMPLIFIER

Obviously this will vary widely depending on exactly what gear you purchase. So I am going to speak in extreme generalities. If you need help filling in the gaps, let me know.

POWER

Most people will have to pull their amplifier power from the battery, but the 2023 have the option to pull their power from the factory wiring, assuming they have a relatively low-powered amplifier.

Variant	Power from Battery	Power from Factory Wiring
'21-'22 Six Speaker	Yes	No
'23 Seven Speaker	Yes	Yes, but careful (12 ga. wire)
'23 Seven Speaker (Sub Delete)	Yes	Yes, but careful (12 ga. wire)
'21-'23 B&O	Yes	No

GROUND

Just about everyone will be able to use the ground near the passenger rear cargo area behind the panel. Those with the 2023MY may also use the factory wiring provided, but keep in mind the ground wire should be the same gauge as the power wire or larger (thicker cable).

AUDIO SIGNAL

This is where it gets interesting...

'21-'22 Six Speaker

Those of you in the unlucky 2021-2022 6-speak camp will have to steal their subwoofer amplifier signal from the left and right kick panel speakers. There really is no other way around it. Of course, certain amplifiers and kits made by companies such as @plugnplaykits can make this task substantially easier for you, but fundamentally it all has to come from the kick panels.

Factory Setup

With Subwoofer Upgrade (Proposed)

'23 Seven Speaker / '23 Seven Sub Delete

2023MY Broncos have all of the wiring in place for an amplifier, regardless of whether you have the sub delete option or not. Upgrades are as easy as taking the old amplifier/subwoofer out (or their fake equivalents), and installing the new amplifier and subwoofer.

Note the 2023MY Broncos with the sub delete option will need to use Forscan to turn on the subwoofer output from the ACM. This output will be a low level (aka: line level) output, not a high level (speaker level) output.

Factory Setup

Factory Setup - Sub Delete

With Subwoofer Upgrade (Proposed)

'21-'23 B&O Package

The B&O package makes it tricky. The amplifier in the rear of your Bronco near the subwoofer is not just a simple amplifier. It is an entire digital signal processor (DSP) that also powers more than half of the speakers in your Bronco. That DSP talks to the factory Audio Control Module (ACM) over a digital connection using a protocol called A2B. Therefore you cannot simply replace the DSP with an amplifier.

There are several companies out there that have aftermarket equipment capable talking on the A2B protocol. BUT, if you are simply going for a factory subwoofer upgrade, your amplifier will have to daisy-chain off of the B&O DSP output.

Factory Setup

With Subwoofer Upgrade (Proposed)

MY PERSONAL SETUP

I have a 2022 Bronco with the standard 6-speaker setup. To feed the subwoofer amplifier I am using a Plug-N-Play kit from @plugnplaykits. That kit steals the signal from the front kick panels, passes it through a load resistor to clean up the signal a bit and give the factory ACM something to look at, and passes it back over the wiring hardness to a Kicker Key 500.1.

OTHER THREADS/VIDEOS...

These are thread I've come across that I felt were extremely helpful. If you got one I missed, link it and I'll add it to this list.

Threads

• 2023MY Speaker/Sub Upgrade Megathread
• @jshapz - 2023 7 speaker subwoofer upgrade
• @cmcbronco - B&O sub installed on Base Bronco ….sorta….
• @John P. - John’s 2 Door Badlands Build (B&O Replaced with Active DSP)
• @Ksjrb03 - B&O sound system complete upgrade - Done

Videos

• Kicker Hideaway Powered Sub Install
• @1Five1 Garage - Interior Trim Removal and Soundproofing

FACTORY WIRING DIAGRAMS

Hope that was helpful!!!

Tremendously detailed!! thank you for the sharing.... the 8"inch Kicker seems to be the way to go.

 

[Beachbum]

Does anyone here just take their Bronco to someone and get the work done? I don't have the tools or know how to do the work myself. Plus I don't want to tear apart my $58k Bronco after only a week. lol I wish I could do all the work myself but after reading most of the Audio threads my heads about to explode. I definitely have the cheesy audio setup after reviewing my window sticker and it sounds like crap. I came from a VW that had Fender and it sounded so much better.

I just want to be able to max out the volume on the factory radio and not sound like something from the 70's. Can I just replace the speakers, subwoofer and amp with quality equipment and get decent sound? I'm getting older so I don't need the neighbors 2 blocks away to hear my music but i want something that will sound nice while I'm driving.

Thank you

 

[RagnarKon]

Does anyone here just take their Bronco to someone and get the work done?

I can say that I’ve talked to a couple people through DMs that did eventually decide to pay someone to do it.

I’ve also talked to several people that just said, “just tell me what to buy and where to plug it in”… and they were able to get it installed by watching my (and other’s) videos without any trouble.

And then I’ve also talked to people who clearly knew more about car audio than I do and we had an extremely in-depth conversations that lasted several weeks.

So… whatever floats your boat, no judgement from me.

In my personal opinion… a car audio install probably costs $500 - $1000 in labor alone. And for that price I rather give it a try, make some mistakes, break a few $3 plastic clips, and learn how to do it myself. There were parts that were a big struggle for sure—but it’s all on video. So if you do decide to do it… hopefully you can avoid some of the issues I had.

 

[Beachbum]

I can say that I’ve talked to a couple people through DMs that did eventually decide to pay someone to do it.

I’ve also talked to several people that just said, “just tell me what to buy and where to plug it in”… and they were able to get it installed by watching my (and other’s) videos without any trouble.

And then I’ve also talked to people who clearly knew more about car audio than I do and we had an extremely in-depth conversations that lasted several weeks.

So… whatever floats your boat, no judgement from me.

In my personal opinion… a car audio install probably costs $500 - $1000 in labor alone. And for that price I rather struggle a bit, make some mistakes, break a few $3 plastic clips, and learn how to do it myself.

You're not helping with my decision. I know I can save a lot of money in just labor alone but don't feel skilled enough with taking apart my new Bronco. I did watch some of your videos and they are extremely helpful. I would also have to buy tools but hey you can never have to many tools. I'm going to check out some places just to get an idea of costs.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Sigmanutz]

You're not helping with my decision. I know I can save a lot of money in just labor alone but don't feel skilled enough with taking apart my new Bronco. I did watch some of your videos and they are extremely helpful. I would also have to buy tools but hey you can never have to many tools. I'm going to check out some places just to get an idea of costs.

Thanks for the reply.

It's definitely worth giving a shot. I just purchased my 23 Wildtrak High a weeks ago as well. Crutchfield is a great website that offers really good deals, they ship fast and accept returns easily. Below is a list of things to try. I'd start with the first suggestion and then move to the next until you are satisfied, and I don't mind helping you along.

1) Use Forscan to disable factory EQ
(most people have noticed a difference after doing this)

2) Replace factory speakers
(most people have changed their 4inch dash speakers, as well as the 4inch speakers in the rear pods - you can switch the rear pods out for a larger 6.75 inch speaker assuming you buy the SSV Works pods or Mabett pods)

3) Install an amplifier to the 6 speakers
(most people have installed a Kicker 200.4 under their steering wheel panel. This is probably most likely what you're looking for, as it is easy to wire up - just make sure that you also buy the PlugnPlay wiring harness sold by Hoel Wiring or PlugNPlayKits. The only cable you need to "run", will be the battery power cable - make sure it is included in your plugnplay wiring harness)

4) Install a subwoofer and amplifier
(lots of people have replaced their fake sub and fake amp that comes on the 23 Broncos, with a Ford Fusion factory amp, and a Kicker 48CWRT674, [use my link below for $32 off]. I can also link you to the $75 Ford amp)

I just finished doing everything I mentioned. Overall, the sound is significantly better. The Bronco went from having zero bass, to sounding like a factory "premium" stereo. Tool-wise, you won't need much more than a socket wrench, and automobile panel removal tools ($5-30). Crutchfield includes the relevant harnesses for free, the only other thing you may consider purchasing is some bass blockers for the dash speakers ~$10 and maybe some sound deadening material for the rear of the vehicle ~$10-$25 (but not necessary).

If you decide to go this route, I can share more info and links.

Good luck!

https://www.crutchfield.com/rf/96a41b22-162b-4b4f-a665-f7263b36d5ce/

 

[mpeugeot]

I can say that I’ve talked to a couple people through DMs that did eventually decide to pay someone to do it.

I’ve also talked to several people that just said, “just tell me what to buy and where to plug it in”… and they were able to get it installed by watching my (and other’s) videos without any trouble.

And then I’ve also talked to people who clearly knew more about car audio than I do and we had an extremely in-depth conversations that lasted several weeks.

So… whatever floats your boat, no judgement from me.

In my personal opinion… a car audio install probably costs $500 - $1000 in labor alone. And for that price I rather give it a try, make some mistakes, break a few $3 plastic clips, and learn how to do it myself. There were parts that were a big struggle for sure—but it’s all on video. So if you do decide to do it… hopefully you can avoid some of the issues I had.

See above, his videos are excellent and the upgrades are pretty easy. Just the Kicker Key 200.4 and 46HS10 sub-woofer provide a huge improvement without even changing the speakers.

 

[BroncoVegas19]

It's definitely worth giving a shot. I just purchased my 23 Wildtrak High a weeks ago as well. Crutchfield is a great website that offers really good deals, they ship fast and accept returns easily. Below is a list of things to try. I'd start with the first suggestion and then move to the next until you are satisfied, and I don't mind helping you along.

1) Use Forscan to disable factory EQ
(most people have noticed a difference after doing this)

2) Replace factory speakers
(most people have changed their 4inch dash speakers, as well as the 4inch speakers in the rear pods - you can switch the rear pods out for a larger 6.75 inch speaker assuming you buy the SSV Works pods or Mabett pods)

3) Install an amplifier to the 6 speakers
(most people have installed a Kicker 200.4 under their steering wheel panel. This is probably most likely what you're looking for, as it is easy to wire up - just make sure that you also buy the PlugnPlay wiring harness sold by Hoel Wiring or PlugNPlayKits. The only cable you need to "run", will be the battery power cable - make sure it is included in your plugnplay wiring harness)

4) Install a subwoofer and amplifier
(lots of people have replaced their fake sub and fake amp that comes on the 23 Broncos, with a Ford Fusion factory amp, and a Kicker 48CWRT674, [use my link below for $32 off]. I can also link you to the $75 Ford amp)

I just finished doing everything I mentioned. Overall, the sound is significantly better. The Bronco went from having zero bass, to sounding like a factory "premium" stereo. Tool-wise, you won't need much more than a socket wrench, and automobile panel removal tools ($5-30). Crutchfield includes the relevant harnesses for free, the only other thing you may consider purchasing is some bass blockers for the dash speakers ~$10 and maybe some sound deadening material for the rear of the vehicle ~$10-$25 (but not necessary).

If you decide to go this route, I can share more info and links.

Good luck!

https://www.crutchfield.com/rf/96a41b22-162b-4b4f-a665-f7263b36d5ce/

this all great information.
Coming from a person (me) that has never done an audio/speaker install on any car.
I went from
I’ll just hire someone to do it for me….
To now
I’m willing to try and do it myself.

99% of the threads I’ve read on upgrading the speakers,, include the fusion amp and the kicker sub woofer (either 6 3/4 or 8 “) .
Which I agree is a great upgrade compared to the stock..

But just out of curiosity, what would be the next level up in regards to amp and sub woofer? I’m considering spending a little extra money on the sound, but I have no idea what would be better choice.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

this all great information.
Coming from a person (me) that has never done an audio/speaker install on any car.
I went from
I’ll just hire someone to do it for me….
To now
I’m willing to try and do it myself.

99% of the threads I’ve read on upgrading the speakers,, include the fusion amp and the kicker sub woofer (either 6 3/4 or 8 “) .
Which I agree is a great upgrade compared to the stock..

But just out of curiosity, what would be the next level up in regards to amp and sub woofer? I’m considering spending a little extra money on the sound, but I have no idea what would be better choice.

If you choose to go much beyond simply replacing the non-functional parts with functional parts you may need to supply 12V power to your new subwoofer amp beyond what the stock wiring provides - so be sure to factor that into your cost/complexity calculations.

 

[BroncoVegas19]

If you choose to go much beyond simply replacing the non-functional parts with functional parts you may need to supply 12V power to your new subwoofer amp beyond what the stock wiring provides - so be sure to factor that into your cost/complexity calculations.

Thank you for that info. I’m not sure exactly what it means, but it gives me a topic to research online.
It’s all brand new to me, but with you and others reply’s il get it down to we’re it all makes sense in my head

 

[35tires]

I have the gearshade box and a jl audio 8w1 going in on Monday. I’ll let everyone know how it pans out.

 

[ultimateone]

Rag or anyone else, is it worth to swap the OEM sub to something else? I have the 7 speaker system as of a week ago and already changed the dashboard speakers. But was wondering if its worth the hassle to swap out the stock sub

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