Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[Blaven]

the IPC, not the as built, plain English settings. There are a few items named chimes…… can’t remember what it’s called exactly but it’s obvious. Change setting from speakers only to instrument cluster only.

I know things are less accurate there but I tried it and it worked. Lots of stuff said “disabled” that are actually enabled.

there are lots of tempting options to change but I refrained. Mostly. I also tried tilting mirrors in reverse, didn’t work.

Found it thanks!

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[mattsmeesh]

Installed my kicker key, using the direct wire to the battery and a PnP harness. Turned it on and everything seems to be working fine, but I have a battery error now (see screenshots).

Any thoughts about what I might have done wrong, and what I need to do to fix it?

 

[MCD1Bronco]

Where did you hook the wire to at the battery? Where did you ground? Pictures of install please

 

[kevin.gt]

Installed new 6.5 inch kick woofers (Dayton Audio $30 each)

Do you have the specific model #? I see a few options but the free air ones look like they are 8 ohm

 

[kevin.gt]

Where did you hook the wire to at the battery? Where did you ground? Pictures of install please

There’s a factory grounding location at the driver kick panel, and there’s a M6 battery terminal waiting for an accessory

 

[Lurker B6G]

Do you have the specific model #? I see a few options but the free air ones look like they are 8 ohm

I went with the classic woofer - it is a paper cone and the fit is a little tight against the front (kick molding) but no noises or rattles. With the leather interior and carpet I will not be getting them wet.

I read someone who used the fiberglass ones and was happy (less front depth and water resistant) and a litte more sensitivity (efficient). I think that these might be my first choice if I did it again, but I am VERY pleased with the classics (bigger voice coil and thus more a litte more power handling capability). I don't think that you could go wrong with either, and both are as good as what you get from the big names...

And here is a new offering that I would have considered if it had been available.

 

[MCD1Bronco]

There’s a factory grounding location at the driver kick panel, and there’s a M6 battery terminal waiting for an accessory

yes I was referring to Matt’s post where he was having electrical issues after installing.

mines grounded to a ground location behind the glove box toward the center stack

 

[yokayyb]

Any recommendations for an alternative amp to the kicker key?

Currently upgraded dash to focals 30w 4ohms and rears to kicker cs 6.5. Not planning on adding a sub.

 

[BigBend530]

Just installed Key 200.4 and sound is a little more clear and louder but very flat and factory tone settings do nothing to sound. Had previously installed JL C1's in dash and kick panels (components) and Focals in rear pods. Had good sound and bass. After Key 200 everything seems flat.

Wired amp to battery, ground at factory spot near driver wiper. Ran DSP with car off and then adjusted gains with car running and left them near vertical.

DC
Fader On
Compression On
Bi-Amp Off
EQ on
Time delay on
Hi pass off.

No Forscan or Soundbar update for rear speakers done.

Any suggestions on changing settings, etc.?

 

[MCD1Bronco]

turn EQ off, made a big difference for me. try the time delay as well. also you won't need to redo the tuning process when making these changes

 

[Slim23]

Just installed Key 200.4 and sound is a little more clear and louder but very flat and factory tone settings do nothing to sound. Had previously installed JL C1's in dash and kick panels (components) and Focals in rear pods. Had good sound and bass. After Key 200 everything seems flat.

Wired amp to battery, ground at factory spot near driver wiper. Ran DSP with car off and then adjusted gains with car running and left them near vertical.

DC
Fader On
Compression On
Bi-Amp Off
EQ on
Time delay on
Hi pass off.

No Forscan or Soundbar update for rear speakers done.

Any suggestions on changing settings, etc.?

I would try it with the compression turned off.

 

[Mc1guil]

For those of you running the kicker key 200.4 and the 500 to power a sub in the back, what are the optimal settings you used? Switched on the 200.4 and how did you do the auto tune since the 500 also has the auto-tune ?
Hooking everything up this weekend.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

Disconnect power from the 500 when you run the 200.4 DSP. You don’t want the sub’s amp running when the 200.4 is adjusting the imaging for your mids/highs.

I didn’t realize the 500 came with that feature. It didn’t come with the microphone.

if you didn’t get the 46CXARC control for the 500, I’d suggest you do. It’s helpful to adjust between top on/off to keep the bass where you want it.

 

[Slim23]

I set the 200.4 crossover at 80Hz and then experimented with the 500.1 crossover until I liked the sound. If that helps.

Only the 200.4 needs an external microphone during DSP. The 500.1 doesn't.

Because I listen mostly to acoustic jazz and classic rock, I didn't want a lot of boom. Therefore, I left the bass boost at zero.

I am very satisfied. It even does classical surprisingly well.

That onboard DSP is a miracle. However, I would have preferred a louder system over all. It's loud enough, but it doesn't sound like Ted Nugent live in 1975.

 

[sbonomo]

I have recently upgraded the infinity reference speakers with Hertz 3-way MPK 163.3 PRO components . I still have the reference 4" speakers in the rear pods. All 8 speakers are being ran by a the 200.4. The hertz 3-ways are a huge upgrade over the mid-level infinity speakers. My question is has anyone tried bridging the 200.4 to 2-channels? I don't really hear any sound from the rear (granted i am never in the backseat) so was thinking why not give the fronts 2x the power and just scrap the rears all together or run them off of the head unit. I would love to hear what people are trying as we try to figure out this pitiful stereo we are burdened with!

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