Rear Seat Delete, DIY Platform 2-Door

[Bikeric]

Hah! Seriously there is no places locally to buy a damn 10 cent resistor anymore. @Bikeric used a 2.4 ohm resistor on the seat belt pretensioner plug harness since he deleted the belts it looks like. So 1.4kohm resistor to do a belt buckle plug bypass and 2.4ohm resistor to do a seat belt pretensioner bypass.

Correct!! 2.4ohm at the belt pretensioner plug. I didn’t want to cut the plug and solder it in case I ever wanted to reinstall them.
Watching this thread to see if the 1.4kohm works for the buckle.
I’m lucky to have an Affiliated Electronics store near my work. It’s like a Radio Shack without the toys.

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[climb2descend]

Correct!! 2.4ohm at the belt pretensioner plug. I didn’t want to cut the plug and solder it in case I ever wanted to reinstall them.
Watching this thread to see if the 1.4kohm works for the buckle.
I’m lucky to have an Affiliated Electronics store near my work. It’s like a Radio Shack without the toys.

I was able to get to an electronics store and got a 1.4kohm 1/4 watt and it didn't work, gah! I've quadruple checked the resistance and no go. After doing some digging and reading around on buckles, its a hall effect sensor, so yah, just plug the buckle back in.

Looks like the pretensioner is easy to defeat with a resistor between 1.70-2.98 ohms, and @Bikeric tested a 2.4ohm with success.

 

[Bikeric]

I was able to get to an electronics store and got a 1.4kohm 1/4 watt and it didn't work, gah! I've quadruple checked the resistance and no go. After doing some digging and reading around on buckles, its a hall effect sensor, so yah, just plug the buckle back in.

Looks like the pretensioner is easy to defeat with a resistor between 1.70-2.98 ohms, and @Bikeric tested a 2.4ohm with success.

I will check, but it was minimal like a 1 watt.
The buckle is a Hall Effect sensor that is looking for metal. No resistor was found to work previously, but it really is easy to just put the buckle in its hole.

 

[Butzy]

Well now I feel dumb.....

 

[DumbAzzGuard]

I found them on Amazon. Sorry, I don't remember the manufacturer.

I just spent over an hour looking, can't find them.

 

[Snow]

This thread inspired me to move my ass and get it done. build a base level with under-floor access and will be adding a second deck 12” higher that’ll match the sides shape all the way to the front and give me a locked down area for when the roof is off.

 

[broncorik]

Do you get any warning indicators on the dash or chimes going off due to the removed seats or seatbelts? I saw in another thread that someone detached the seatbelt receptor from the seat and then attached the belt into it. It was hidden under the board. However it was unclear to me if that eliminated all the warnings and chimes.

I do not believe airbags are affected in anyway. Is that correct?

Thanks again and look forward to some more photos in the coming days.

That was me and yes you absolutely need to plug in the seatbelt receiver harnesses or you'll get a dashboard light... I had to take apart the receivers from the seat frames and velcro them out of the way.

 

[Donkeygyrl]

Ugly it will never work lol

 

[broox]

Adding mine to the thread...

More details on my platform in this thread

 

[71to21-2DR]

Well, I did the first stage of my seat removal took them out!
Trim the studs down to the height of the nuts put two pieces of rubber that usually lines toolboxes in work trucks flipped upside down.
Next stage is to build a platform with storage for a woofer and tools and things
But this will get me by for now

 

[Big Norwegian]

Nuked my back seats on my 2-Door and made a deck from wood to fit the contour. The deck fit just fine from the front to the back with out bolting down. Between the bolt tops, side seatbelt brackets and the rear tailgate lip it just fit level. Covered in a Lowes outdoor 5x7 rug cut down to fit. I have a working trapdoor that just needs just cut out that the carpet is still covering. Simple KISS design. Had to unbolt the speaker to get it through the back door.

Cheers,

HD

Great idea cargo space is so limited in the 2 door, I wish I would have thought about this before I got a 4 door!

 

[Chook]

Nuked my back seats on my 2-Door and made a deck from wood to fit the contour. The deck fit just fine from the front to the back with out bolting down. Between the bolt tops, side seatbelt brackets and the rear tailgate lip it just fit level. Covered in a Lowes outdoor 5x7 rug cut down to fit. I have a working trapdoor that just needs just cut out that the carpet is still covering. Simple KISS design. Had to unbolt the speaker to get it through the back door.

Cheers,

HD

Perfect!

 

[Chook]

Adding mine to the thread...

More details on my platform in this thread

Brilliant. Well done.

 

[Fillups]

I realize there are lots of 2-door seat delete threads out there, but I have a back-to-basics question for the DIY crowd.

I have my piece of half-inch plywood cut to fit reasonably well. Forgive the sloppy paint around the edges, the plan is to do dark gray peel and stick carpet squares on top. My question for those that have been here and done this, did you use the two seat bolts from the top down to hold the plywood in? When I started it off, I thought the rear studs would stick up thru the wood enough to put the nuts on those as well, but it looks like they will just be locator pins at this point. I plan to counter sink bolts more, so the carpet sits about level with bolt heads in the end. They are just finger tight in pics.

I’m asking because in some other folks finished pictures, I don’t see any bolt heads sticking up through the carpet, so wondering if they are just laying the plywood on top of everything?

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