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Not a Kicker speaker install... with pics!

Havoc1

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So a lot of people here have been doing the kicker speaker install, well here's your not a kicker walk through install.

Personally, I chose to go with the JBL GX series speakers for a number of reasons, one of them being I'm a fan of JBL. Are there better products out there? Absolutely! But I wasn't going to dump too much into a sound system that won't be used much, especially if I'm overlanding with others from work. I just wanted something better than what it came with.

Another reason I chose JBL over others is that the speakers are in the same price range as the kickers AND came with capacitors built in already so I didn't have to worry about base blockers.

One big concern that people run into is that "there are no connectors for the 4" speakers." Some people ordered the metra 72-5600 (I was one of them) the issue I ran into was that the only way I was able to get it to connect was to plug it in backwards (reversed polarity). Will the speaker still work? Yes, but not properly as the reverse polarity basically has the cone move down when it's supposed to move up, and up when it's supposed to move down. So the way I fixed the issue was to cut the wires and switch them so I get + to + and - to - (basically wired the connector backwards on itself). I'll admit in the photo I'll post below, I goofed and cut the factory harness for the rear pods. Of course, in typical "aha moment" fashion for me, it dawns on me to just switch the wires on the connector rather than the factory harness. Thankfully for me it was just the one rear pod (they have a 3" removable harness between ACM harness and the speaker) and I don't really care because I'm ordering the sound bar as well so those will be removed. But for those that don’t want to take these extra steps here's a link to some connectors that will work from Amazon.
Ford Bronco (2021+), Ford Maverick (2022+) Speaker Wiring Harness https://www.amazon.com/dp/[banned vendor link]/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_K9PA4F4TTYGE847XV4AE

Another issue with the 4" is, for the rear only, the pod covers don't fit over the tweeter, as it sticks out about a 1/4" to far, again not an issue for me as I'll be removing them in the near future anyway. If you're one of those that will replace the rear pods and want to keep them and the cover on I suggest concert series for JBL, or whatever brand you choose just make sure the tweeter part of the component is flush or slightly recessed. Someone else on here suggested to cut the "eyebrow" I believe is what they called it off the GX428, but I don't see how they managed to get the cover on as the whole tweeter sticks out just far enough to not keep the cover secure.

I have had zero issues up front except for a broken tab on the LF 4" cover. Every time I had to remove trim when I was working as a tech, I almost alway broke a tab. It's bound to happen no matter how long you've worked on cars. My suggestion to those that have not done it yet is to A) keep super glue or trim repair kit handy. B) start by removing the trim from the side, then for the corner in the hard to reach corner, go at it from two angles and be easy. Crutchfield also states that you're supposed to break off the alignment tabs for the fronts but as you can see in the picture, the tabs are still there and new speaker is installed.

I used the same metra 82-5605 as others for the 6.5's in the kick panel, it sits pretty tall, but I didn't have an issue putting the kick panel back on. I also did not need to remove the grab handles. It was literally just two pieces on trim, the kick panels and the scuff plates that needed to be removed. The only true issue that I saw with the metra adapters is that there was no way to route the wires without pinching them between either the speaker and the adapter, or the adapter and vehicle so I drilled a whole just big enough for the + side of the wire connectors to fit through and routed it through.

Now for the sound quality, it's so much cleaner than the stock speakers! I have lows and highs. My only complaint is that with the built in capacitors, I don't get all the lows from my 6.5's but as soon as parts are available for the dsp and harness kit I want, I'll install that and a hideaway sub. Hopefully the soundbar helps a little too? If anyone has better insight on the bar let me know please. JBL is usually good with being able to hit and handle the lows fairly well.

I'm sure I missed some stuff, and I'll do my best to answer questions as well.

Ford Bronco Not a Kicker speaker install... with pics! 20220520_121026



Ford Bronco Not a Kicker speaker install... with pics! 20220520_121227


Ford Bronco Not a Kicker speaker install... with pics! 20220520_121256


Ford Bronco Not a Kicker speaker install... with pics! 20220520_122038


Ford Bronco Not a Kicker speaker install... with pics! 20220520_144734


Ford Bronco Not a Kicker speaker install... with pics! 20220520_145425


Ford Bronco Not a Kicker speaker install... with pics! 20220521_100006


Ford Bronco Not a Kicker speaker install... with pics! 20220521_110553


Ford Bronco Not a Kicker speaker install... with pics! 20220520_130059
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It's amazing how much better the system sounds just by changing the speakers.
 

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The JBL sound bar will require a software flash from the dealer to sound the way it should . You probably know that, but just restating what is already known. I Like JBL as well, they usually have a good sound.
 

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So a lot of people here have been doing the kicker speaker install, well here's your not a kicker walk through install.

Personally, I chose to go with the JBL GX series speakers for a number of reasons, one of them being I'm a fan of JBL. Are there better products out there? Absolutely! But I wasn't going to dump too much into a sound system that won't be used much, especially if I'm overlanding with others from work. I just wanted something better than what it came with.

Another reason I chose JBL over others is that the speakers are in the same price range as the kickers AND came with capacitors built in already so I didn't have to worry about base blockers.

One big concern that people run into is that "there are no connectors for the 4" speakers." Some people ordered the metra 72-5600 (I was one of them) the issue I ran into was that the only way I was able to get it to connect was to plug it in backwards (reversed polarity). Will the speaker still work? Yes, but not properly as the reverse polarity basically has the cone move down when it's supposed to move up, and up when it's supposed to move down. So the way I fixed the issue was to cut the wires and switch them so I get + to + and - to - (basically wired the connector backwards on itself). I'll admit in the photo I'll post below, I goofed and cut the factory harness for the rear pods. Of course, in typical "aha moment" fashion for me, it dawns on me to just switch the wires on the connector rather than the factory harness. Thankfully for me it was just the one rear pod (they have a 3" removable harness between ACM harness and the speaker) and I don't really care because I'm ordering the sound bar as well so those will be removed. But for those that don’t want to take these extra steps here's a link to some connectors that will work from Amazon.
Ford Bronco (2021+), Ford Maverick (2022+) Speaker Wiring Harness https://www.amazon.com/dp/[banned vendor link]/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_K9PA4F4TTYGE847XV4AE

Another issue with the 4" is, for the rear only, the pod covers don't fit over the tweeter, as it sticks out about a 1/4" to far, again not an issue for me as I'll be removing them in the near future anyway. If you're one of those that will replace the rear pods and want to keep them and the cover on I suggest concert series for JBL, or whatever brand you choose just make sure the tweeter part of the component is flush or slightly recessed. Someone else on here suggested to cut the "eyebrow" I believe is what they called it off the GX428, but I don't see how they managed to get the cover on as the whole tweeter sticks out just far enough to not keep the cover secure.

I have had zero issues up front except for a broken tab on the LF 4" cover. Every time I had to remove trim when I was working as a tech, I almost alway broke a tab. It's bound to happen no matter how long you've worked on cars. My suggestion to those that have not done it yet is to A) keep super glue or trim repair kit handy. B) start by removing the trim from the side, then for the corner in the hard to reach corner, go at it from two angles and be easy. Crutchfield also states that you're supposed to break off the alignment tabs for the fronts but as you can see in the picture, the tabs are still there and new speaker is installed.

I used the same metra 82-5605 as others for the 6.5's in the kick panel, it sits pretty tall, but I didn't have an issue putting the kick panel back on. I also did not need to remove the grab handles. It was literally just two pieces on trim, the kick panels and the scuff plates that needed to be removed. The only true issue that I saw with the metra adapters is that there was no way to route the wires without pinching them between either the speaker and the adapter, or the adapter and vehicle so I drilled a whole just big enough for the + side of the wire connectors to fit through and routed it through.

Now for the sound quality, it's so much cleaner than the stock speakers! I have lows and highs. My only complaint is that with the built in capacitors, I don't get all the lows from my 6.5's but as soon as parts are available for the dsp and harness kit I want, I'll install that and a hideaway sub. Hopefully the soundbar helps a little too? If anyone has better insight on the bar let me know please. JBL is usually good with being able to hit and handle the lows fairly well.

I'm sure I missed some stuff, and I'll do my best to answer questions as well.

20220520_121026.jpg



20220520_121227.jpg


20220520_121256.jpg


20220520_122038.jpg


20220520_144734.jpg


20220520_145425.jpg


20220521_100006.jpg


20220521_110553.jpg


20220520_130059.jpg
Great write-up. Looks like you didn’t add an amp. How’s the sound and volume from the kick speakers?

There’s a hole under the kick speakers (covered by the black thing) you can route wires through.
 
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Havoc1

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The JBL sound bar will require a software flash from the dealer to sound the way it should . You probably know that, but just restating what is already known. I Like JBL as well, they usually have a good sound.
Yea, I don't understand why Ford did that to be honest it's one of the dumbest things they did for this. Next to the recirc turning off and on "for improved cooling performance from the system."

Great write-up. Looks like you didn’t add an amp. How’s the sound and volume from the kick speakers?

There’s a hole under the kick speakers (covered by the black thing) you can route wires through.
Correct, no amp yet. Sound quality is a lot better than stock. I didn't mess with the equalizer settings from where I set them before, turned it up to 12 comes in super clear and loud enough to listen to going down the highway with windows down. Speed adjusted volume set to high, not sure what it actually sets it to, but before if I wanted windows downs driving I would need at least 15, and it was muffled.

I can actually hear and feel the lows coming through. The highs don't breakup anymore. I used bohemian rhapsody to test everything because of the highs and lows they have in the song.

But just for driving around town now, I keep it at about 6 vs 8 before the upgrade. I know I bounced around a lot here trying to answer your question. I was just writing as thoughts popped into my head with before and after.

Long answer short: These vs factory
- these sound like you're right next to the music or a person talking
- factory sounds like taking a Bluetooth speaker and throwing the speaker in a backpack
 

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Yea, I don't understand why Ford did that to be honest it's one of the dumbest things they did for this. Next to the recirc turning off and on "for improved cooling performance from the system."
I noticed weird stuff from either a door or motor as soon as I rolled off the lot. Got home and I did a scan on Forscan and had a DTC for HVAC recirculating Damper motor - Possible failure. I’m actually taking it in this morning to have them check. In past experiences if a door doesn’t stay open or oscillates it’s a bad motor. Recirculate shouldn’t open and close on its on.
 
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I noticed weird stuff from either a door or motor as soon as I rolled off the lot. Got home and I did a scan on Forscan and had a DTC for HVAC recirculating Damper motor - Possible failure. I’m actually taking it in this morning to have them check. In past experiences if a door doesn’t stay open or oscillates it’s a bad motor. Recirculate shouldn’t open and close on its on.
Yea, it's actually in the owners manual now claiming it's more effective. It's really not, the system ends up working harder to cool the air.
 

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Yea, it's actually in the owners manual now claiming it's more effective. It's really not, the system ends up working harder to cool the air.
Dealer confirmed my door is inoperative. New one on order.
 

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Dealer confirmed my door is inoperative. New one on order.
@Havoc1 from the way I read the manual the recirc opens or closes in certain modes. Like if you put on max it will auto close. If you use auto and the interior is hot it will automatically close. Or potentially if using defrost it may open or close to help defogging. These are all functions most climate control systems have today. If you have AC in normal manual mode recirculate should not open and close on its own. If it does I think there may be a faulty motor like I had that is searching for the correct setting.
 
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@Havoc1 from the way I read the manual the recirc opens or closes in certain modes. Like if you put on max it will auto close. If you use auto and the interior is hot it will automatically close. Or potentially if using defrost it may open or close to help defogging. These are all functions most climate control systems have today. If you have AC in normal manual mode recirculate should not open and close on its own. If it does I think there may be a faulty motor like I had that is searching for the correct setting.
Thanks I'll scan mine and see if I have dtc's and go from there. I need to take mine in anyway for the transmission anyway
 

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Thanks I'll scan mine and see if I have dtc's and go from there. I need to take mine in anyway for the transmission anyway
Regular scanner may not pick it up since FDRS data but Forscan will detect DTC. The tech was surprised when I told him I had scanned and it had a code. He said you have a scanner that will read FDRS data? Yes I do
 
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Regular scanner may not pick it up since FDRS data but Forscan will detect DTC. The tech was surprised when I told him I had scanned and it had a code. He said you have a scanner that will read FDRS data? Yes I do
I used to work for Ford, I still have ids/fdrs and everything on my laptop along with the vcm and vcmm.

Idk what forscan is honestly. Hell, I never even heard it before joing this site a few months back and it still confuses me every time someone mentions it lol.
 

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I used to work for Ford, I still have ids/fdrs and everything on my laptop along with the vcm and vcmm.

Idk what forscan is honestly. Hell, I never even heard it before joing this site a few months back and it still confuses me every time someone mentions it lol.
It is back wards engineered software that allows you to See the as built data and modify the modules as built. It is also very similar in layout to dealer IDS scan too and has powerful diagnostic capability. Can scan and diagnose all modules and get real time pid data. It’s as close as you can get to IDS. It’s only for Ford and Mazda vehicles. You can load it on any Windows PCM and be in business for about $75. A no brainer for the techies.
 
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It is back wards engineered software that allows you to See the as built data and modify the modules as built. It is also very similar in layout to dealer IDS scan too and has powerful diagnostic capability. Can scan and diagnose all modules and get real time pid data. It’s as close as you can get to IDS. It’s only for Ford and Mazda vehicles. You can load it on any Windows PCM and be in business for about $75. A no brainer for the techies.
Does it come with a vcm for that price?
 

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Does it come with a vcm for that price?
Yeah All you need is the OBDLink-Ex that is linked on the Forscan.org site that is around $59. That is the VCM. You can then download Forscan, buy the extended license which is like $12.95 a year. They will send you an activation code to plug into the Forscan program and your in business.
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