Help! Asfir LCA skid stripped nut

[Lifeliberty]

Since it appears that only a couple threads are ruined, would it be safe to use a thread chaser and keep the bolt?

I would clean up the threads if you can. I dont know the size but if you can find the right thread die do it.
Safe? Maybe, sure i don't know. But congratulations on getting your nut!

You may want to get a new shock absorber worst case scenario, someone else would know more

And i was thinking about you using the large bolt as a spacer, good thinking to get back on the road, i wouldn't feel great leaving it that way

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[BroncoAZ]

From some of the lift kit install videos I’ve seen, the shock stud is pressed in from the top. One of the videos shows it being knocked out with an air hammer and the lift install uses a replacement bolt rather than the stud. Hammering out the stud and replace with a bolt should also give you a little more clearance.

 

[Stonetree]

From some of the lift kit install videos I’ve seen, the shock stud is pressed in from the top. One of the videos shows it being knocked out with an air hammer and the lift install uses a replacement bolt rather than the stud. Hammering out the stud and replace with a bolt should also give you a little more clearance.

I called the local Ford parts department. They said that bolt assembly is attached to the shock, so the bolts aren't sold separately. It's all pressed together. Unfortunately, I don't have an air hammer.

 

[Stonetree]

I would clean up the threads if you can. I dont know the size but if you can find the right thread die do it.
Safe? Maybe, sure i don't know. But congratulations on getting your nut!

You may want to get a new shock absorber worst case scenario, someone else would know more

And i was thinking about you using the large bolt as a spacer, good thinking to get back on the road, i wouldn't feel great leaving it that way

I'm definitely not leaving it that way for long. The original nut is long enough that I really don't think two messed up threads will make a difference. This gave me an excuse to buy a tap and die set. The Ford parts counter couldn't tell me the pitch of the thread, just that's is an M12. The die set I ordered has the two common M12 thread pitches. So I'll clean up the threads as best I can and torque it down to 90Nm, as noted in the service manual. I'll use a good bit of blue loctite. Should be good then. I'd hate to have to buy a new shock and get it installed for two threads. But, it I notice movement later, I won't have a choice.

 

[Lifeliberty]

I'm definitely not leaving it that way for long. The original nut is long enough that I really don't think two messed up threads will make a difference. This gave me an excuse to buy a tap and die set. The Ford parts counter couldn't tell me the pitch of the thread, just that's is an M12. The die set I ordered has the two common M12 thread pitches. So I'll clean up the threads as best I can and torque it down to 90Nm, as noted in the service manual. I'll use a good bit of blue loctite. Should be good then. I'd hate to have to buy a new shock and get it installed for two threads. But, it I notice movement later, I won't have a choice.

Fyi, You can take your good nut to a hardware store like Ace (not big box like lowes home depot) and they can tell you size, pitch, whatever, and get you the right die

 

[BroncoAZ]

I called the local Ford parts department. They said that bolt assembly is attached to the shock, so the bolts aren't sold separately. It's all pissed together. Unfortunately, I don't have an air hammer.

I think a 3# sledge would get that stud out of there.

 

[Stonetree]

Fyi, You can take your good nut to a hardware store like Ace (not big box like lowes home depot) and they can tell you size, pitch, whatever, and get you the right die

Hmmm.... I did not know that. Thanks!

 

[Stonetree]

I think a 3# sledge would get that stud out of there.

Tempting

 

[JScheier]

Looking at that bolt (stud), counting 6 threads up from the bottom, that 'ring' looks to be from the nut. You can take a pick and probably get that piece off the bolt, and then either use a thread chaser or a known good nut in that size to clean the threads up.

 

[orion]

OP, those shock studs come out pretty easy. You will have to pull the whole coil over out to do it but that would be the way to go. Pull them and install a nut and bolt...

 

[Silver-Bolt]

FYI, that nut was not a Grade 10.9. Metric nuts are not grade the same as metric bolts. That nut appears to be a Class 8. No way it could handle 117NM.

 

[Stonetree]

FYI, that nut was not a Grade 10.9. Metric nuts are not grade the same as metric bolts. That nut appears to be a Class 8. No way it could handle 117NM.

I figured it wasn't a high grade. I sent an email to Asfir about the problem. Here's the response.

"Sorry to hear you are having a problem with the below nut.

We do not really have a solid solution how to release the nut and can only suggest that you try to release it by using a chisel and hammer and very slowly and carefully try to free it from it's position.

We apologize for not having a better idea and for any inconvenience caused.

I have also passed your mail onto engineering to check the NM issue."

So, hopefully, they'll change the torque notation on the document that comes with the LCA skid plates. They did ship out a new bag of hardware since I mangled some of the original.

 

[Silver-Bolt]

I figured it wasn't a high grade. I sent an email to Asfir about the problem. Here's the response.

"Sorry to hear you are having a problem with the below nut.

We do not really have a solid solution how to release the nut and can only suggest that you try to release it by using a chisel and hammer and very slowly and carefully try to free it from it's position.

We apologize for not having a better idea and for any inconvenience caused.

I have also passed your mail onto engineering to check the NM issue."

So, hopefully, they'll change the torque notation on the document that comes with the LCA skid plates. They did ship out a new bag of hardware since I mangled some of the original.

The factory nuts are made to a specific Ford design and can handle the high torque load. What they sent you is a low carbon steel thin pattern nylon insert lock nut. Not to be used on structural applications. If these weren't also the lower shock mounting nuts they would be fine. These are key structural components of the rear suspension and should not be down graded.

 

[Stonetree]

The factory nuts are made to a specific Ford design and can handle the high torque load. What they sent you is a low carbon steel thin pattern nylon insert lock nut. Not to be used on structural applications. If these weren't also the lower shock mounting nuts they would be fine. These are key structural components of the rear suspension and should not be down graded.

I agree. I'm not going to use the Asfir nuts on the shock bolts. I ordered new nuts from my Ford dealer. From the service manual, these nuts are to be replaced when removed. It's obvious the Ford nuts are much stronger.

 

[wetdog]

Its always a plus to have strong nuts!
Maybe get in there with a small high speed cutting wheel(not a pussy dremel) and cut the head off that stud and punch it through.

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