- First Name
- Jim
- Joined
- May 12, 2024
- Threads
- 28
- Messages
- 1,309
- Reaction score
- 2,653
- Location
- Citrus county, FL
- Vehicle(s)
- Former 72 & 73 Bronco driver, f250 7.3 powerstroke
- Your Bronco Model
- Everglades
- Thread starter
- #1
I was goi g to make a tutorial but that’s getting into the weeds so it’s not gonna happen, I’m just showing off my mudflaps I guess.
It’s a simple design that I have seen other resellers using.
My mudflap 2.0 has proven effective for both cost and performance. Nothing I see on the market performs better. Equal but not better. 2 years of testing, 30k miles.
I have dragged them over logs forward and reverse, in mud and rocks with no damage.
my application 2.0 version is for 37” tires using a max clearance fender liner bracket.
version 1.0 you make a simple hanger to bolt off your rear crash bar mount instead.
You determine the length you want.
I run long front as it keeps the mud down big time, here in FL it’s all mud. I took the front off for my TN adventure because mine are so long I did not want to chance an issue on the boulders. But I’ll likely make a short front set so I can run the boulders with them on.
I removed the plastic block behild the front wheels for extra clearance and it makes easier install for the mudflaps also. If you don’t do this you need some spacers so it sits flush.
I cut back my rock sliders and steps for greater clearance but not necessary if you leave the block in place.
Amazon mud flap blanks under $50 pick the size you want to work with. Product is = Buyers Products RC18PPB Black Polymer Mud Flaps.
This polymer can be folded back on itself and not break, it’s darn tough.
Amazon hardware $20. See pic.
Razor knife to cut the blanks to size.
Cardboard for your template:
Front wheel mud flap attachment uses factory fender liner push pin holes with your new hardware, no drilling in metal required.
Rear mudflaps drill 3 holes in plastic wheel well lines.
Hardware pics
remove this junk from behold the front fender liner.
Make your template and cut your new flaps to fit.
Here are the 3 attachments needed it’s that simple.
Rear
They fit nice and tight, tires do not catch on the material.
And with 3 retainer points each, they are very easy to remove if you for some reason needed to.
Cut these back for max clearance if you remove the block. Heck you might not even have them anyway.
It’s a simple design that I have seen other resellers using.
My mudflap 2.0 has proven effective for both cost and performance. Nothing I see on the market performs better. Equal but not better. 2 years of testing, 30k miles.
I have dragged them over logs forward and reverse, in mud and rocks with no damage.
my application 2.0 version is for 37” tires using a max clearance fender liner bracket.
version 1.0 you make a simple hanger to bolt off your rear crash bar mount instead.
You determine the length you want.
I run long front as it keeps the mud down big time, here in FL it’s all mud. I took the front off for my TN adventure because mine are so long I did not want to chance an issue on the boulders. But I’ll likely make a short front set so I can run the boulders with them on.
I removed the plastic block behild the front wheels for extra clearance and it makes easier install for the mudflaps also. If you don’t do this you need some spacers so it sits flush.
I cut back my rock sliders and steps for greater clearance but not necessary if you leave the block in place.
Amazon mud flap blanks under $50 pick the size you want to work with. Product is = Buyers Products RC18PPB Black Polymer Mud Flaps.
This polymer can be folded back on itself and not break, it’s darn tough.
Amazon hardware $20. See pic.
Razor knife to cut the blanks to size.
Cardboard for your template:
Front wheel mud flap attachment uses factory fender liner push pin holes with your new hardware, no drilling in metal required.
Rear mudflaps drill 3 holes in plastic wheel well lines.
Hardware pics
remove this junk from behold the front fender liner.
Make your template and cut your new flaps to fit.
Here are the 3 attachments needed it’s that simple.
Rear
They fit nice and tight, tires do not catch on the material.
And with 3 retainer points each, they are very easy to remove if you for some reason needed to.
Cut these back for max clearance if you remove the block. Heck you might not even have them anyway.
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