Victory: dialed in the Kicker 200.4 and 500.1 amps with upgraded speakers and Gearshade hidden 8" sub

[SROC3]

I had the 6-speaker setup. We all know that story.

I bought:
- 4" Kicker CS dash speakers
- 6.5" Kicker CS rear pod speakers
- Kicker Key 200.4 DSP amp
- Gearshade hidden enclosure w/8" Kicker sub and Kicker Key 500.1 amp
- Kit 19.1 Harness from Plug N Play

I had no previous experience with stereo upgrades ever. And I had never used Forscan. A lot has changed in 3 weeks.

I know that many people have this setup or something very similar and are struggling to get it all dialed in and balanced. I think I finally got there.

We all have the same problems after the install:
1. The front speakers are too bright and loud
2. The rear speakers do very little
3. Balancing the head unit, speaker amp, sub amp and DSP settings is tricky

But after many attempts, I finally have balanced everything. Soundstage is finally full, with deep base and no issues.

Even after the hardware install and monkeying around for a week I was very pleased but still feeling like the front speakers were too bright and loud, the bigger rear pods still weren't doing much at all (and fading rear made the sub volume go down), and the sub wasn't putting out as much punch as I expected, even at over 50% gain. And at volume 15, it was now crazy loud.

I had "successfully" done all the Kicker Key setup functions on both amps. There were no clipping problems.

Through some deduction and discussion with others on this forum, I suspected that my problem was that I had the gain too high on the 200.4 "Amp 1" dial, which controls the 4 front speakers (even though the Key setup functions led me to these settings). And perhaps my previous attempts I had something not quite right?

So I decided to open it up again and this time do a thorough preparation to give myself the best chances making all these Kicker Key DSP algorithms work correctly.

I got a Forscan tool and did these setting adjustments (only the bottom 3 matter for this exercise, but OMG the others are wonderful):

1. Added Rock Crawl GOAT mode (to Wildtrak)
2. Disabled Honk/Honk door-close outside of car with engine on
3. Disabled Ding/Ding/Ding key-in ignition chime
4. Disable Ding/Ding/Ding at startup
5. Disabled driver & passenger seatbelt chime
6. Disabled door ajar chime
7. Turn Signal Volume down
8. Rear pod signal switched to: tweeter/speaker/sub
9. Removed factory EQ settings for new amp
10. Moved warning chime sounds (parking sensors etc) to come through the head unit's built-in speaker. This is critical with amplification your will have amplified warning chimes blasting through all your speakers.

Before I reran the Key setup and DSP with pink noise, and before I redid the gain setting exercise, I followed these preparation tips:
- subwoofer disconnected
- EQ off on my phone (I hadn't done this previously)
- Speed sensitive volume off on head unit (I hadn't done this previously)
- Volume at 14
- Reset 200.4 (I hadn't done this previously)
- Windows up, inside quite garage
- Head unit fader and EQ to neutral
- gains at zero
- crossover off
- And instead of placing the microphone on the top of headrest, I placed it in the middle of the armrest (move it forward and lower may help pull the sound stage rearward. (I hadn't done this previously)

I got the victory tones from the Key DSP setup.

After that, I did the gain adjustments. The winning solution was to turn "Amp 1" dial down to near zero", and "Amp 2" dial at about 20% (this boosts rear speakers and still no clipping at high volume). It is sooo much better than my previous attempts. I listened to different song types and A/B tested the differences of the DSP settings on vs. off. With it off, it still sounds great but has a muddier midrange. I left the DSP settings on. Also, the volume knob is now at a more reasonable number for how loud it is.

I then went to the back and re-did the Key 500.1 sub amp setup processes. I ran the tests at volume 19 instead of the recommended 23. When playing the gain matching track, I was getting no warning light even at max gain. So I backed if off to 50% gain. The victory lights eventually flashed, and I did the Key 500.1 Algorithm setup. I will admit that when I A/B test this, I can't hear any difference, but I left it on anyway.

It sounds exactly how I want it!

Update to update: Started with Hi-pass crossover on the 200.4 amp off. Then at 60, and then at the recommended 80Hz and it didn't sound like I was losing anything, which I assume means it's better/safer (it still has plenty of bass coming to kick panels - you can feel the air waves hitting your pants - they couldn't do that before the amp). I have the 500.1 subwoofer Low pass at 80Hz.

I also just turned the "radio detect" button off. I still have radio signals so not sure how else this feature helps/hurts? Anyone? Bueller?

But I think I'm done! Hope this helps someone.

NICE!!!!!!! Glad you got it all sorted man!

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[SkyKing]

NICE!!!!!!! Glad you got it all sorted man!

Appreciate your guidance!

 

[SROC3]

Appreciate your guidance!

Anytime man! I'm looking forward to my upgrade (10 inch kicker dowfiring + JL 500.1 amp) early next week I'll update ya on how it goes!

 

[mdube72]

I had the 6-speaker setup. We all know that story.

I bought:
- 4" Kicker CS dash speakers
- 6.5" Kicker CS rear pod speakers
- Kicker Key 200.4 DSP amp
- Gearshade hidden enclosure w/8" Kicker sub and Kicker Key 500.1 amp
- Kit 19.1 Harness from Plug N Play

I had no previous experience with stereo upgrades ever. And I had never used Forscan. A lot has changed in 3 weeks.

I know that many people have this setup or something very similar and are struggling to get it all dialed in and balanced. I think I finally got there.

We all have the same problems after the install:
1. The front speakers are too bright and loud
2. The rear speakers do very little
3. Balancing the head unit, speaker amp, sub amp and DSP settings is tricky

But after many attempts, I finally have balanced everything. Soundstage is finally full, with deep base and no issues.

Even after the hardware install and monkeying around for a week I was very pleased but still feeling like the front speakers were too bright and loud, the bigger rear pods still weren't doing much at all (and fading rear made the sub volume go down), and the sub wasn't putting out as much punch as I expected, even at over 50% gain. And at volume 15, it was now crazy loud.

I had "successfully" done all the Kicker Key setup functions on both amps. There were no clipping problems.

Through some deduction and discussion with others on this forum, I suspected that my problem was that I had the gain too high on the 200.4 "Amp 1" dial, which controls the 4 front speakers (even though the Key setup functions led me to these settings). And perhaps my previous attempts I had something not quite right?

So I decided to open it up again and this time do a thorough preparation to give myself the best chances making all these Kicker Key DSP algorithms work correctly.

I got a Forscan tool and did these setting adjustments (only the bottom 3 matter for this exercise, but OMG the others are wonderful):

1. Added Rock Crawl GOAT mode (to Wildtrak)
2. Disabled Honk/Honk door-close outside of car with engine on
3. Disabled Ding/Ding/Ding key-in ignition chime
4. Disable Ding/Ding/Ding at startup
5. Disabled driver & passenger seatbelt chime
6. Disabled door ajar chime
7. Turn Signal Volume down
8. Rear pod signal switched to: tweeter/speaker/sub
9. Removed factory EQ settings for new amp
10. Moved warning chime sounds (parking sensors etc) to come through the head unit's built-in speaker. This is critical with amplification your will have amplified warning chimes blasting through all your speakers.

Before I reran the Key setup and DSP with pink noise, and before I redid the gain setting exercise, I followed these preparation tips:
- subwoofer disconnected
- EQ off on my phone (I hadn't done this previously)
- Speed sensitive volume off on head unit (I hadn't done this previously)
- Volume at 14
- Reset 200.4 (I hadn't done this previously)
- Windows up, inside quite garage
- Head unit fader and EQ to neutral
- gains at zero
- crossover off
- And instead of placing the microphone on the top of headrest, I placed it in the middle of the armrest (move it forward and lower may help pull the sound stage rearward. (I hadn't done this previously)

I got the victory tones from the Key DSP setup.

After that, I did the gain adjustments. The winning solution was to turn "Amp 1" dial down to near zero", and "Amp 2" dial at about 20% (this boosts rear speakers and still no clipping at high volume). It is sooo much better than my previous attempts. I listened to different song types and A/B tested the differences of the DSP settings on vs. off. With it off, it still sounds great but has a muddier midrange. I left the DSP settings on. Also, the volume knob is now at a more reasonable number for how loud it is.

I then went to the back and re-did the Key 500.1 sub amp setup processes. I ran the tests at volume 19 instead of the recommended 23. When playing the gain matching track, I was getting no warning light even at max gain. So I backed if off to 50% gain. The victory lights eventually flashed, and I did the Key 500.1 Algorithm setup. I will admit that when I A/B test this, I can't hear any difference, but I left it on anyway.

It sounds exactly how I want it!

Update to update: Started with Hi-pass crossover on the 200.4 amp off. Then at 60, and then at the recommended 80Hz and it didn't sound like I was losing anything, which I assume means it's better/safer (it still has plenty of bass coming to kick panels - you can feel the air waves hitting your pants - they couldn't do that before the amp). I have the 500.1 subwoofer Low pass at 80Hz.

I also just turned the "radio detect" button off. I still have radio signals so not sure how else this feature helps/hurts? Anyone? Bueller?

But I think I'm done! Hope this helps someone.

Did you take a picture of where your Key 500 settings are currently dialed in at ?

 

[mdube72]

I have the new Gearshade 2Dr sub box with the redesign to mount the B&O amp on the front. Got it dialed in pretty well, but would love to see screen shots of other members Key 500 settings. I ran the Key set up and felt the gain was quite low. Right now I’m running with the Key settings turned off. Might retry the set up again. Even trying to set it up at volume 19 - the volume is so loud running the tracks. Thanks to @GearShade for the first new box. These kicker L7T8 subs pack a punch. Very impressed so far. Using the Plug-n-Play harness made wiring this up so easy.

 

[SkyKing]

Did you take a picture of where your Key 500 settings are currently dialed in at ?

I don’t have a pic but…

for 200.4:
Auto Turnon: DC
Fader: On
Compression: Off
Bi-amp mode: Off
Kicker EQ: enabled
Time Delay: enabled
Hi pass filter: 80
Amp 1 gain: 10%
Amp 2 gain: 25%
Radio Detect: off

For 500.1:
Hi pass: 15Hz
Low pass: 80Hz
DC Offset: On
Input Signal: High
Bass Boost: 25%
Gain: about 40% (this could be pushed higher but would more likely require use of a wired remote sub volume knob for certain songs)

 

[SkyKing]

I have the new Gearshade 2Dr sub box with the redesign to mount the B&O amp on the front. Got it dialed in pretty well, but would love to see screen shots of other members Key 500 settings. I ran the Key set up and felt the gain was quite low. Right now I’m running with the Key settings turned off. Might retry the set up again. Even trying to set it up at volume 19 - the volume is so loud running the tracks. Thanks to @GearShade for the first new box. These kicker L7T8 subs pack a punch. Very impressed so far. Using the Plug-n-Play harness made wiring this up so easy.

Yes at volume 23 I was worried it was going to destroy itself during the Key setup and gain matching exercise.

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

@SkyKing - thanks for posting, it motivated me to try the setup again and the results seem much more balanced.

My 200.4 settings are pretty much the same w/ no gain front and about 15% rear. I did turn Time Delay to off since I figured the Bronco driver vs all settings would fight with it.

 

[SROC3]

I had the 6-speaker setup. We all know that story.

I bought:
- 4" Kicker CS dash speakers
- 6.5" Kicker CS rear pod speakers
- Kicker Key 200.4 DSP amp
- Gearshade hidden enclosure w/8" Kicker sub and Kicker Key 500.1 amp
- Kit 19.1 Harness from Plug N Play

I had no previous experience with stereo upgrades ever. And I had never used Forscan. A lot has changed in 3 weeks.

I know that many people have this setup or something very similar and are struggling to get it all dialed in and balanced. I think I finally got there.

We all have the same problems after the install:
1. The front speakers are too bright and loud
2. The rear speakers do very little
3. Balancing the head unit, speaker amp, sub amp and DSP settings is tricky

But after many attempts, I finally have balanced everything. Soundstage is finally full, with deep base and no issues.

Even after the hardware install and monkeying around for a week I was very pleased but still feeling like the front speakers were too bright and loud, the bigger rear pods still weren't doing much at all (and fading rear made the sub volume go down), and the sub wasn't putting out as much punch as I expected, even at over 50% gain. And at volume 15, it was now crazy loud.

I had "successfully" done all the Kicker Key setup functions on both amps. There were no clipping problems.

Through some deduction and discussion with others on this forum, I suspected that my problem was that I had the gain too high on the 200.4 "Amp 1" dial, which controls the 4 front speakers (even though the Key setup functions led me to these settings). And perhaps my previous attempts I had something not quite right?

So I decided to open it up again and this time do a thorough preparation to give myself the best chances making all these Kicker Key DSP algorithms work correctly.

I got a Forscan tool and did these setting adjustments (only the bottom 3 matter for this exercise, but OMG the others are wonderful):

1. Added Rock Crawl GOAT mode (to Wildtrak)
2. Disabled Honk/Honk door-close outside of car with engine on
3. Disabled Ding/Ding/Ding key-in ignition chime
4. Disable Ding/Ding/Ding at startup
5. Disabled driver & passenger seatbelt chime
6. Disabled door ajar chime
7. Turn Signal Volume down
8. Rear pod signal switched to: tweeter/speaker/sub
9. Removed factory EQ settings for new amp
10. Moved warning chime sounds (parking sensors etc) to come through the head unit's built-in speaker. This is critical with amplification your will have amplified warning chimes blasting through all your speakers.

Before I reran the Key setup and DSP with pink noise, and before I redid the gain setting exercise, I followed these preparation tips:
- subwoofer disconnected
- EQ off on my phone (I hadn't done this previously)
- Speed sensitive volume off on head unit (I hadn't done this previously)
- Volume at 14
- Reset 200.4 (I hadn't done this previously)
- Windows up, inside quite garage
- Head unit fader and EQ to neutral
- gains at zero
- crossover off
- And instead of placing the microphone on the top of headrest, I placed it in the middle of the armrest (move it forward and lower may help pull the sound stage rearward. (I hadn't done this previously)

I got the victory tones from the Key DSP setup.

After that, I did the gain adjustments. The winning solution was to turn "Amp 1" dial down to near zero", and "Amp 2" dial at about 20% (this boosts rear speakers and still no clipping at high volume). It is sooo much better than my previous attempts. I listened to different song types and A/B tested the differences of the DSP settings on vs. off. With it off, it still sounds great but has a muddier midrange. I left the DSP settings on. Also, the volume knob is now at a more reasonable number for how loud it is.

I then went to the back and re-did the Key 500.1 sub amp setup processes. I ran the tests at volume 19 instead of the recommended 23. When playing the gain matching track, I was getting no warning light even at max gain. So I backed if off to 50% gain. The victory lights eventually flashed, and I did the Key 500.1 Algorithm setup. I will admit that when I A/B test this, I can't hear any difference, but I left it on anyway.

It sounds exactly how I want it!

Update to update: Started with Hi-pass crossover on the 200.4 amp off. Then at 60, and then at the recommended 80Hz and it didn't sound like I was losing anything, which I assume means it's better/safer (it still has plenty of bass coming to kick panels - you can feel the air waves hitting your pants - they couldn't do that before the amp). I have the 500.1 subwoofer Low pass at 80Hz.

I also just turned the "radio detect" button off. I still have radio signals so not sure how else this feature helps/hurts? Anyone? Bueller?

But I think I'm done! Hope this helps someone.

Hey bro could you share the FORscan settiings for: Disabled Ding/Ding/Ding key-in ignition chime

1. Disable Ding/Ding/Ding at startup
2. Disabled driver & passenger seatbelt chime
3. Disabled door ajar chime
4. Turn Signal Volume down
5. Rear pod signal switched to: tweeter/speaker/sub
6. Removed factory EQ settings for new amp

(its not YOUR 1-7..., just got numbered that way...weird.)

 

[ejaffe]

I noticed I have open circuit DTC codes now for each of the speakers after doing Forscan. I don't think it's from the change because I only modified the EQ and the rear speakers so I think it may be from the amp. Anyone else notice this?

 

[SkyKing]

Hey bro could you share the FORscan settiings for: Disabled Ding/Ding/Ding key-in ignition chime

1. Disable Ding/Ding/Ding at startup
2. Disabled driver & passenger seatbelt chime
3. Disabled door ajar chime
4. Turn Signal Volume down
5. Rear pod signal switched to: tweeter/speaker/sub
6. Removed factory EQ settings for new amp

(its not YOUR 1-7..., just got numbered that way...weird.)

I used the spreadsheet (first link in this thread):
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...k-sport-mode-chimes-seatbelts-and-more.28489/

The only one I did that was not on this spreadsheet was the moving of the alert chimes to only come out of the head unit's built in speaker (which was critical because they had become "amplified"). I put that in a post at the end of a thread.

 

[SkyKing]

I noticed I have open circuit DTC codes now for each of the speakers after doing Forscan. I don't think it's from the change because I only modified the EQ and the rear speakers so I think it may be from the amp. Anyone else notice this?

I am a newbie but do you mean you're see warning codes in FORscan that weren't there before as a result of making tweaks? Are there any operational symptoms or would you never know if you didn't have a tool to look for trouble codes?

 

[ejaffe]

I am a newbie but do you mean you're see warning codes in FORscan that weren't there before as a result of making tweaks? Are there any operational symptoms or would you never know if you didn't have a tool to look for trouble codes?

No lights on the dash so I wouldn't have known about it without plugging in.

 

[SkyKing]

No lights on the dash so I wouldn't have known about it without plugging in.

I feel like I should throw the FORscan device away before I get myself in trouble with it. Maybe toss it into a volcano to ensure that its sorcerous power can never be wielded for future wrongdoing.

 

[ejaffe]

That's an idea. One thing I found is the ABS code may appear when the battery is disconnected. Certainly did that when installing the amp. I also looked at my original report before Forscan and saw the speaker open circuit code already existed so that must be from the amp.

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