Rough Country MLC-6 Multiple Light Controller

[Mumblemouth]

I assume you don’t need to connect the switch ground to the relay box since the factory fuse box is already grounded out?

Those add-a-taps are exactly what i used.

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[Brian_B]

Oh that’s good news! It’ll make it so much easier to run the lines.

For wiring the WUPP unit:

This is a stock photo. But it's clean and you can see all the terminal points named clearly.

The switches are labeled (+) and (-), with the intention that you just put a dry contact across there. ACC + power is present on all the (+) terminals, and when the circuit is closed that puts 12V on the (-) terminal, the relay actuates.

It wasn't well described in the installation manual that way. But made sense once I figured out they were just expecting a dry contact / switch to go across, and all the (+) terminals are common to ACC +

I have 60A fused main battery line coming in on BAT (+), and 10 A fused add-a-tap from the fuse box (used 360 camera power, can't recall fuse number off the top of my head) for the ACC +.

I have an external switch panel, so rather than run 6 pairs of wires, I ran a 9 conductor wire to my switch panel - one has the same ACC +, the others are the second leg of each switch, wired to the (-) terminal to close that circuit and actuate the appropriate relay. (the extra two wires are on their own fused lines for external relays)

 

[Mumblemouth]

Aaaah. I think I understand now. So the colored wires from my upfitter switches (or tapped from the fuse box) would be the dry contact going into the negative side of the green bank. Am I understanding that right?

The ACC and the BATT I understand fully.

For wiring the WUPP unit:

This is a stock photo. But it's clean and you can see all the terminal points named clearly.

The switches are labeled (+) and (-), with the intention that you just put a dry contact across there. ACC + power is present on all the (+) terminals, and when the circuit is closed that puts 12V on the (-) terminal, the relay actuates.

It wasn't well described in the installation manual that way. But made sense once I figured out they were just expecting a dry contact / switch to go across, and all the (+) terminals are common to ACC +

I have 60A fused main battery line coming in on BAT (+), and 10 A fused add-a-tap from the fuse box (used 360 camera power, can't recall fuse number off the top of my head) for the ACC +.

I have an external switch panel, so rather than run 6 pairs of wires, I ran a 9 conductor wire to my switch panel - one has the same ACC +, the others are the second leg of each switch, wired to the (-) terminal to close that circuit and actuate the appropriate relay. (the extra two wires are on their own fused lines for external relays)

 

[Brian_B]

Aaaah. I think I understand now. So the colored wires from my upfitter switches (or tapped from the fuse box) would be the dry contact going into the negative side of the green bank. Am I understanding that right?

The ACC and the BATT I understand fully.

Sounds right

 

[CWGrisw0ld]

Did you get the 6 relay/12 fuse or the 6 relay/6fuse option?

I like the foot print of the WUU one or whatever, but the extra amperage would be nice.

I got the 6 Relay 11 Fuse version - if you look at the 6 relay/6 fuse version they sell, they have multiple wires crimped into a single lug connector which is generally a bad idea.

 

[Mumblemouth]

Got that WUUP relay box set up. I reckon 25amps should be sufficient for any lights I’ll add. A compressor or winch will need to be on its own relay anyways. I just drilled out some holes on the battery tie down..cut some bolts down shorter and that’s really it. I’ll clean up the wiring a bit more but I ran out of sunlight.

 

[Brian_B]

Got that WUUP relay box set up. I reckon 25amps should be sufficient for any lights I’ll add. A compressor or winch will need to be on its own relay anyways. I just drilled out some holes on the battery tie down..cut some bolts down shorter and that’s really it. I’ll clean up the wiring a bit more but I ran out of sunlight.

I never even thought of the hold down bracket - thats a clever idea

 

[Jeff Lebowski]

So, is the takeaway from everyone that the MLC is not a good solution to the low amperage issue with the existing aux switches ?

 

[Mumblemouth]

So, is the takeaway from everyone that the MLC is not a good solution to the low amperage issue with the existing aux switches ?

It just doesn’t fit very well.

 

[DansDrives]

Figured I'd share here since I made the MLC-6 work. I got an insanely good deal on one of these, so I figured I'd just give it a shot, knowing damn well it does not fit my Bronco Raptor. I modified it to fit on top of the fuse box, cutting the base plate and using home wall outlet spacers with longer bolts to mount it. And you know what? It works GREAT! I've had it installed for about a month now with no issues and it's made wiring a breeze. It's not worth the full price considering it just plain doesn't f***ing fit and they should have designed it properly, but if you can find one on sale or from someone who doesn't want to deal with it, then I have no complaints. So, for about $5-10 in parts and paint and a cut off wheel, you can make this little thing work great. You do have to be careful when you drill up threw the fuse box since there is very little clearance within the box itself, but if you mess it up that cover is around $20.

 

[CWGrisw0ld]

I did something similar to Dan, but instead of the MLC, I mounted this $30 Amazon box on top of the fuse box cover.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DKJ7JW99?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

 

[DansDrives]

I did something similar to Dan, but instead of the MLC, I mounted this $30 Amazon box on top of the fuse box cover.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DKJ7JW99?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

Damn, that's a great little product! I might order one of these up for my F150 Raptor.

 

[Jeff Lebowski]

I did something similar to Dan, but instead of the MLC, I mounted this $30 Amazon box on top of the fuse box cover.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DKJ7JW99?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

That is an awesome little device !! Few questions:

1) How's the quality? I'm always so apprehensive when it comes electrical system purchases and their propensity to catch on fire...
2) I am trying to install 4 bumper lights split onto 2 circuits/relays. Each relay/circuit will support 2 lights triggered through its own individual upfitter switch. Each light pairing draws 35.6A. I see that each relay supports up to 40A however there seems to be only one inline fuse rated for 40A. Do you think I could replace one of the other fuses to a 40A rating ? so I would now have 2 fuses rated for 40 amps each.

 

[CWGrisw0ld]

That is an awesome little device !! Few questions:

1) How's the quality? I'm always so apprehensive when it comes electrical system purchases and their propensity to catch on fire...
2) I am trying to install 4 bumper lights split onto 2 circuits/relays. Each relay/circuit will support 2 lights triggered through its own individual upfitter switch. Each light pairing draws 35.6A. I see that each relay supports up to 40A however there seems to be only one inline fuse rated for 40A. Do you think I could replace one of the other fuses to a 40A rating ? so I would now have 2 fuses rated for 40 amps each.

I've only had it in for 3 months or so, but I have 2 40 amp fuses on switches 1 and 2 and......so far so good.

 

[Mega3000]

Thanks for the ideas guys.
Here is another layout with the WUUP. Powering fog and offroad lights from Diode Dynamics.

Feedback welcome.

The 100A breaker is for a future project not on the WUUP.

This ended up so much cleaner than the wiring harnesses custom for these lights.

Plan to add a light bar next.

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