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Rear Brake Pad Service

Kevin Scarbel

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I just want to be clear on rear pad replacement. Thank you in advance for those with experience.

Turn on maintenance mode.
Unbolt the EPB (Electronic Parking Brake) actuator motor from the back of each caliber.
Screw in (clockwise) the bolt on the back of the brake caliber with a Torx socket.
With a disc brake caliber kit*, screw the piston in (don't push it straight in alike the front axle or damage will result). Make sure the two piston indentations are at 6 and 12 o'clock to line up with the inner pad.

*https://www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-11-piece-63264.html
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Brian_B

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If you are able to turn on BMM you don’t have to do anything further with the parking brake.

The whole “take it off and unscrew” is only if you can’t get BMM to work for whatever reason.

Beyond that it’s just a standard disc brake
job
 
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Kevin Scarbel

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If you are able to turn on BMM you don’t have to do anything further with the parking brake.

The whole “take it off and unscrew” is only if you can’t get BMM to work for whatever reason.

Beyond that it’s just a standard disc brake
job
Thanks Brian. On many vehicles, say Honda, if you push in the piston rather than turning it back in with the tool, you damage the caliber. And that's after screwing in the Torx bolt on the back side. (All that on Hondas although you have NOT actuated the electronic parking brake)
If I use my special tool to push in the caliber piston, which means turning it at the same time, I wonder if that would cause an issue?
 

Brian_B

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I just used a clamp on mine and pushed, I didn’t twist

That said just because it didn’t break doesn’t mean I did it correctly.
 

Brian_B

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Here's the official instructions - they mention to make sure the brake hose doesn't get twisted/kinked, and to be sure not to pry on the caliper site hole or use a C-clamp to push in the piston. It does reference the caliper compression tool though, and there is an alignment groove on the piston to make sure you have lined up.

Other than that - no mention of needing to twist the caliper as you push or anything. Pull the two anchor bolts, support the caliper while you do the pads, reverse the procedure to re-install.
 

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Kevin Scarbel

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Here's the official instructions - they mention to make sure the brake hose doesn't get twisted/kinked, and to be sure not to pry on the caliper site hole or use a C-clamp to push in the piston. It does reference the caliper compression tool though, and there is an alignment groove on the piston to make sure you have lined up.

Other than that - no mention of needing to twist the caliper as you push or anything. Pull the two anchor bolts, support the caliper while you do the pads, reverse the procedure to re-install.
  • Front Calipers: Typically use a straight-push compression tool or C-clamp style spreader because front pistons do not need to rotate to retract.
  • Rear Calipers: Most modern Ford rear disc brakes feature an integrated parking brake mechanism. This means the piston must be rotated (wound back) simultaneously while being compressed. Turning them straight back without rotation can permanently damage the internal adjuster. Depending on the specific model (such as certain newer Ford Ranger or F-150 rear calipers), you may need either a right-handed or left-handed threaded wind-back adapter.
 
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Kevin Scarbel

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Put it in brake maintenance mode, remove the caliper, push the piston straight in.

No turning required
This includes pre-2025 2.3L models with vacuum brake boosters, and 2025-on with electric brake boosters ?
 
 





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