Raptor First Oil Change - - Be Aware (or BEWARE!)

[toymaster]

..... I only have 3,000 miles on the Braptor, but I am in the crowd that — right or wrong — believes an early oil change can’t hurt and may be beneficial. .....

It ain't faith, there is proof. Also, 3K ain't early. About to do my second change at ~3K. I did 500 miles and I can tell by MPG that motor fully broke-in during a 1,500 mile trip I just took; happened between 1500 and 3000.

For those doing their own oil changes on their Raptors is the drain plug one time use? If so what is the proper relacement plug? I was under the impression it was not the same plug as the 2.7L but would love some clarification so that I can have some on hand.

I, like you, OP, feel the first oil change should be early. However I believe in much earlier.

First 20 minutes, then at 500 miles, 1000, and 3000 initially......

I have both a new 3.0 and 2.7, oil plugs are identical. Those mile marks you used is what I use on my motorcycles, even I think that may be overkill on a 6 quart engine.

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[mattymik]

do your own oil changes. You caught the error because you had a receipt. What else did they screw up that was not on the receipt.

I actually built my own Bronco, from scratch, for this very reason. Trust no one.

 

[da_jokker]

I'm in need of my first oil change (non-raptor) and am planning on having the dealer do ot because of the potential of being blamed for a bad oil pan plug....

...you post has me wondering which option has better odds.

 

[BroncoAZ]

you still remove the plug once the initial drain is done or at least you should.

The whole point of those plugs is to avoid removing the plug on each oil change and to avoid the mess. I wouldn’t bother adding one if I still need to remove it every time.

I ran the Fumoto valve on my Cummins truck for a dozen years. It worked great and I didn’t worry about a few ounces that might remain in the pan, especially with 3 gallons of oil.

 

[PA BRaptor]

This is EXACTLY why I do oil changes on my own vehicles. I know what came out and how much and then what and how much went back in.

 

[Roostracing]

I took my Raptor to my local Ford Dealership for its first oil change this past weekend. I only have 3,000 miles on the Braptor, but I am in the crowd that — right or wrong — believes an early oil change can’t hurt and may be beneficial. After waiting an hour for their quick lane service, I got my vehicle back and drove off. As we were driving I had my wife look at the receipt and tell me how many quarts were added. The receipt stated that 6 quarts of 5W20 were added. I immediately pulled over to look at the receipt (as though my wife was incapable of reading) and verify through the owner‘s manual that the 3.0 liter takes 7.5 quarts. Not only does the 3.0 take 7.5 quarts, it takes 7.5 quarts of 5W30. I then manually checked the oil level and it did show a low oil level. I immediately turned around and went back to the Ford Dealership. The Ford advisor took my receipt and stated that she needed to speak with the technician that performed the service. The tech came out and removed the dipstick showing me that the oil level was “reaching” the hash marks. I asked how many quarts did you put in? His response: 6. I then asked why would you put in 6 quarts if the manual calls for 7.5 quarts? His UNBELIEVABLE response was that new engines do not require 7.5 quarts. HUH? At that very moment, the service manager walked up and asked the tech how many quarts he put in; he responded 6. The service manager then told him that was wrong and 7.5 should have been put in. I then asked what weight he put in — he stated 5W30. I asked why my receipt said 5W20 and he said it was an error. The service manager then asked him how he knew it was an error. The tech went into an explanation as to how oil is retrieved and the service manager accepted the explanation, confident that the correct weight was used. They then took my vehicle and topped it off with the missing 1.5 quarts.

I decided to post this merely to remind people to trust but verify. Don’t fall into the trap that you are at an authorized Ford Dealership thus the service will be correct (as I did — driving off without looking at the receipt). More importantly, if something doesn’t sound right (“new engines do not require 7.5 quarts”) elevate your concern and have them support what they are stating. Luckily, I had a service manager that intervened immediately.

This is the reason why I did the oil change myself. If you wanna do it right, sometimes you gotta do it yourself. Sucks to think this way but it happens all the time. I wouldnt doubt it has 5w20 in it being the guy was an idiot. I dont think 5w20 will hurt it at all but thats not what you paid for.

I changed mine at 4500 miles with Amsoil signature series with a wix filter.

 

[BroncoWTFAN]

Just did mine at the first 2000 miles, didn't spill a drop taking the yellow plastic plug out. I let it sit for about an hour to fully drain. I reused the plug this time, next time will replace it with the same exact plug. I ordered the after market plug and decided not to install it due to the difference of what could be left in the pan.

It's really simple to do, very novice job.

1 - Remove oil fill cap
2 - Remove oil plug (Some models have a metal shield in that area, just remove it first, loosen front two and remove the back two with a 15mm socket)
3 - Remove oil filter housing (plastic 27mm top, use the right 27 mm socket to remove)
4 - Wait an hour for it to drain completely, cold or hot does not really matter, just adds or removes time. Note: Wait till it barely drips, this can take a while
5 - Replace filter and the 3 o-rings, use your finger with a dab of oil to moisten the rings (Note : The tiny one is a pain to get back on but nothing crazy)
6 - Reinstall filter and cover (Tighten to torque spec or just till it stops, do not over tighten)
7 - Reinstall drain plug, also moisten the ring with a dab of oil first.
8 - Install Oil 6.5 qts. (Or whatever you think as this is debated between 6 thru 7 qts.)
9 - Replace oil fill cap
10 - Run the no start process for 10 seconds (Brake and Gas depressed)
11 - Check oil level as per the dipstick hash marks
12 - start for a while and stop
13 - Check oil level

Parts needed
Oil (Synthetic 5-30W) - I went with the OEM Motorcraft synthetic blend
Filter - OEM which now looks different from the factory installed one
Tools (27mm socket, 15mm socket for the body armor plate)
Torque wrench is ideal to have, but can be done without
Pliers or wrench to start the turn of the plastic plug, very light pressure needed

The above is from memory and just documenting for my own self preservation, please correct me if a step is wrong and I will fix it.

Does anyone know the Ford part number for the OEM yellow plug? The ones on amazon are not OEM rather copies which look exactly 100% the same.

The sliver metal shavings were for sure in the membranes but not a crazy amount.

I did find a small dent in my radiator bottom, not sure how it got there but it's there, it's nothing huge but an indentation along the edge towards the middle. Is this anything to worry about?

 

[PA BRaptor]

Great description of the steps taken.

Re step 10, what is the ‘Run the no start process’?

 

[Jerseybraptor]

Great description of the steps taken.

Re step 10, what is the ‘Run the no start process’?

It primes the engine for a few seconds before starting it. Not necessary imo but cool feature. You can look up videos on YouTube.

 

[PA BRaptor]

Great, thank you!

 

[Chieftain]

Man I’m glad I found this thread when I did. Went to the dealer for my first oil change (free with FordPass points) and they gave me 6qts. Tech thought it was the 2.7L engine but even their service manual vs the owners manual in the vehicle state different oil capacities.

 

['18 M2]

So it’s how many quarts?

 

[swamp2]

I'm doing my own also get one of these you will thank me later.

Did you consider/compare to the UPF plug?

 

[AKDV]

I was unable to find a good video describing this no start process. Can someone point me in the right direction?

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