Problems with Curt trailer light wiring w/o LED's - Instructions?

[fv9]

I installed the Curt trailer wiring harness w/o LED's on my 22 4 door BD. Everything seemed fine when tested and I havent had to tow ever since. Well, I need to tow a small trailer trailer Thursday morning and went to test the lights using a flat four test light. No joy but discovered the fuse blew. So, replaced it and tested my left blinker. All three lights lit up on the tester. Turned off the auto headlights and two lights were lit. Turned off the left blinker and turned on the right. Went back and no lights. Fuse blew again. So, it appears something is wrong. I have found the install instructions to reference as I retrace the wiring, but by chance does anyone have any advice on what might be happening or what I should check? I need to get this figured out tomorrow. Thanks!

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[dgorsett]

Mine, installed in 2022 on a 21 no LED has worked fine. I would suggest checking ground. as I recall, mine, an early version, I had to ground both the red and white wire. But again, an early version and they really weren't design for non LED. Since you're blowing fuses you need to check your power wire for a pinch/short.

 

[TX-Dennis]

Best guess is that your power wire has gotten abraded and is grounding out intermittently. Get underneath and trace its full length with a strong light source.

 

[fv9]

I found the issue. A zip tie broke and the main wiring harness was riding against the muffler, which then melted the jacket. Ill just cut the section out, reconnect with butt connectors, and find a better place to secure the harness away from the muffler. Thanks all.

 

[TX-Dennis]

I found the issue. A zip tie broke and the main wiring harness was riding against the muffler, which then melted the jacket. Ill just cut the section out, reconnect with butt connectors, and find a better place to secure the harness away from the muffler. Thanks all.

That's why I used way more zip ties (larger stronger ones, too) than what came in the kit. Was challenging to keep the wire away from heat and rotation, but it can be done.

 

[fv9]

Welp, I cut out the section and use butt connectors. Problem know is the two blinker connectors are always receiving current even when the blinkers aren’t on. Used the plug in flat 4 tester with lights AND a regular test light. No blown fuse this time though. No idea why they are both receiving current when the blinkers are off. Frustrating.

 

[dgorsett]

J

Welp, I cut out the section and use butt connectors. Problem know is the two blinker connectors are always receiving current even when the blinkers aren’t on. Used the plug in flat 4 tester with lights AND a regular test light. No blown fuse this time though. No idea why they are both receiving current when the blinkers are off. Frustrating.

just a couple thoughts: damage to control box from short? Or, I would suggest hooking up to an actual trailer. My plug acted weird when just hooked up to a set of aux led lights but works fine hooked up to a trailer.

 

[fv9]

J

just a couple thoughts: damage to control box from short? Or, I would suggest hooking up to an actual trailer. My plug acted weird when just hooked up to a set of aux led lights but works fine hooked up to a trailer.

I was wondering about the control box as well. As for for a trailer, I can try that, but my test light confirmed the same as the flat four tester.

 

[BigFootie]

Very possible the direct short damaged the box. Those tend to be the weak link in the aftermarket trailer set ups.

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