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Large Gauge Wire Routing Thru Cabin Interior

Shiver Me Timbers

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Hi Guys…

I’m new to the BG6 Forum and have a ‘22 2 Dr 2.3L Man. Big Bend “Squatch” that I’m outfitting. I’ve recently mounted an EcoFlow 2KW Solar Generator in the rear cargo area and need to run a large (8 Ga) gauge wire from the battery to a separate EcoFlow 800W Charger that’s mounted next to the solar gen in the cargo area.

Does anyone have suggestions or specific Bronco experience on the best route for passing a large gauge wire through the firewall and back to the rear cargo area?

I’ve enjoyed reading all the B6G threads! Grateful to be here and for any/all feedback!
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Migo

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Inside option is best done through the existing wire run on along the door sills and then out the grommet on the driver's side. If you don't mind wiring outside the vehicle, I ran a power wire for my compressor from the engine bay, along the frame rail attached to the existing wire loom, and into the cargo area through a small grommet that is under the cargo flooring.
 

Beach_Bum

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In the Interior Modification sub-forum, there is a thread on the EF 800W Alternator Charger (You can search just that forum). It is a thick wire and is a PIA to get through the grommet above the dead pedal.
 

WarthogJr

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Look for a grommet on the driver’s side. I put a big power cable through it to supply my amplifiers…pretty sure it was a 4 gauge.
 

Brian_B

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I ran double #4 underneath the carpet via the passenger side and popped up behind the rear seats - I couldn't get it to set nicely in the sill and get the trim back on. That said, smaller wire (I believe a single #8 wouldn't be a problem, assuming you are picking up a local chassis ground in the rear) snaked through the door sills would be the preferred path, plenty of other wiring goes that path.

The PITA part is getting it through the firewall, for sure. But possible. Very easy run once you get it from there.

Going underneath along the frame and popping up in the rear is an option that's easier to install, but you have to be conscious of all that wiring being exposed outdoors -- sticks love to catch on wiring harnesses and yank on them, and if you have them anywhere a rock can hit it you can be sure it will bash the crap out of it.
 

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I discovered from a thread on here that there is a rubber boot on the passenger side right under the coolant overflow and from the inside, remove the glove box and you can see it in the upper right.

From the engine bay, there is a large rubber nipple on that boot you can cut off and then from the other side make a cut large enough for your wires. I ran 2 8 gauge wires from the back and the hardest part was cutting off that nipple. Once that was done the rest was easy. All the panels snap on and off fairly easy.

I popped off the larger passenger rear cargo panel covering the sub, it’s one giant piece. Popped both passenger door sills and snapped loose the other panels they connect to. After that the wire runs in the existing plastic wire looms in the door sills. I added some zip ties for good measure. Run the wires all the way up, through the plastic panel by the passenger side feet on the right under the glove box and out of that rubber boot and then ran those wires over the back of the engine bay with the other wires and to the battery.

I have other stuff going out through the rubber plug on the driver side and i didn’t want all those wires under the pedals. Took a bit but it was worth it. Happy to help if you run into issues.
 

Squirrel13

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I’m to this point as well. Any tips for crossing behind the dash? Need to run the 8g from the eaton block into cab and terminates on the blue sea. Ham antenna wire also needs to cross behind the dash

Ford Bronco Large Gauge Wire Routing Thru Cabin Interior IMG_1945


Ford Bronco Large Gauge Wire Routing Thru Cabin Interior IMG_1951
 

Jmanly

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Get a fiberglass fish tape to run cable under the dash. I ran a 1/0 wire to rear for my air compressor. Under dash then through door sills
 

Brian_B

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Yeah getting across the dash isn’t too hard - a fish tape / wire to get it behind the HVAC area is all you need. Might be able to get it without one if your cable is stiff enough. It’s a bit too tight to get your hands in there but plenty of room for cable, and in the footwells very open and lots of stuff you can zip tie the cable along to keep it secure.

It’s just that 12 inches or so immediately behind the hvac / radio that’s a little crowded
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