There’s nothing preventing you from alternative plans. From their standpoint they wanted to avoid drilling or hooping on silicone to seal a hole.Now I’m thinking about using this spot if I cut and splice. I’ve already broken the zip tie that used to be part of that plug. Just got to get the right goo to seal it up. And I think it’s accessible without taking the taillight off.
It's to have the reverse light function. Mine are wired to the aux switch and all the wiring is inside the vehicle behind the interior panel and through the tailgate. I went with amber spots for true chase lights and have other lights for reverse lights.
I ended up going through the smaller hole and cutting and splicing the wires. I’ll get some stuff to seal it up tomorrow.
It’s just two more bolts than normal & a quick unplug of each light. Probably adds another 3 min to removing the spare. The two additional bolts are the same size as the lug nuts, so no additional tools from normal are needed.
I finally got around to wiring up the Aux Switch (#6 in case you were wondering).
Excellent job! It’s all worth it in the end.I finally got around to wiring up the Aux Switch (#6 in case you were wondering).
Im not showing the rear wiring. It went pretty easy. Just pull the side panel back at the top until you can drop the aux pigtail back behind it. As has been mentioned many times actually connecting to the aux wire is a pain. I normally don’t like crimp but connectors but unless I removed the entire side panel I didn’t have much choice. And yes you cringe every time you pop a panel off.
Now to the front and the glovebox. Take the entire glovebox off. Once you release the stay on the right side the glovebox drops all the way down and comes off super easy.
Do you see the white/orange wire coming from the back? Neither could I. I ended up taking off the speaker panel (which you shouldn’t have to do) and kept looking around. The other problem is that the early wiring notes have it as white/grey. I finally found it tucked way high on the far right. The trick is the wires are taped to the main harness. I do the tape to give you more play.
The other wires were easier to find. Remember there are four wire ends down here. White/orange from the back. Grey/orange runs down from the visor. Then you have two jumper wires that run from the glovebox to the engine compartment. It doesn’t matter which of these jumpers you use, just don’t forget when you get under the hood. I chose the white one. The other is brown/white.
So just white to white/orange. And then put back all the panels you removed to find the dang wires.
Back under the hood it was a simple white to which ever switch wire you want to use. Since the lights are at the back of the rig I went with switch 6. For me it was yellow/orange.
That was it. Now I can flip on the white lights at any time.
Nice idea!I ended up tapping the reverse light wire on the inside of the cargo area and was able to bypass all the external wire routing. From here I just ran it right alongside the existing wire loom and through the tailgate.
Did you just cut off their harness that goes inline with the factory plugs?I ended up tapping the reverse light wire on the inside of the cargo area and was able to bypass all the external wire routing. From here I just ran it right alongside the existing wire loom and through the tailgate.
They don’t have a harness for a 6 inch light bar from DD so I ran my own wiring to the light. The light bar came with a pigtail so I connected my wiring to that.
Yup looks a lot cleaner!I didn’t want to run the wires outside the vehicle either, so I looked around and found that if I lift up the rubber going between the tail light area and the cab I could push the small end of the harness through and avoid the external routing.
Nice looking wiring job, looks like you’ve done that a few times.I ended up tapping the reverse light wire on the inside of the cargo area and was able to bypass all the external wire routing. From here I just ran it right alongside the existing wire loom and through the tailgate.
