Pull it off and see if she notices a difference
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That looks super clean and seems like the best of both worlds!I added factory disconnect to my WT. was easy to install and wire - did it in my driveway.
Same as the sway on the road and definitely keeps the wheels planted when disconnected.
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That's probably the smart/reasonable approach and I appreciate the adivce. Not yet but have the off rodeo in a couple weeks so hopefull I can play with one that has the factory disconnects then. Got a trip planned for Moab later this year so hoping to have it ready for that!
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I added the factory disconnect and wired to a 10 amp switch. It works great, although I've noticed that the solenoids get a bit warm to the touch when the disconnect is on. 10 amp is the lowest amp switch and the 15 amp makes it event hotter. It hasn't failed yet. Knock on wood. If it does, it'll be NO sway bar.
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actually it will sway bar all the time, no disconnect…my understanding is they should be wired in parallel not in series…
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It does disconnect when you flip the switch ON, (you can feel it let loose), and reconnects when you flip the switch off on level ground. I tested it on ramps before took it out on a trail, one under the left front tire and one under the right rear. Flip the switch and the bronco levels out. Works great!
The hot selnoids were my only concern., but it hasn't failed yet. Time will tell.
I'll be honest, I'm NO electrician!! I don't understand what you meant by being wired in parallel vs to a switch. Please enlighten me. I'm here to learn!
6 volts instead of 12 volts, see post below.
I changed mine to this wiring and it helped, they don't get near as hot and it operates just fine.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...nnect-technical-information.5659/post-2255825
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Thank you! Diving into that thread now!
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I read through it, learned something, and out to the garage I go. Thank you both.
There’s a tread that recommends you wire then parallel va the original way Stinkyfab did it (serial). I’m going to change mine when I get the time. It’s a simple fix.
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I added the Ford Stabilizer Bar Disconnect and also was worried about continuous use-solenoids heating up. Thus, I have only switched on when needing articulation. Reading through the thread, and looking at the detailed post attached, I started thinking that when articulation is needed the suspension might already be loaded and maybe require a full 12vdc to activate. I suspect the factory cuts the voltage down noted in the above opinions.
So, I drew up a simple TDO (time delay-on) circuit. Went to Amazon and bought a 12 to 6vdc transformer, a 10 second delay-on relay, a couple of single weatherpack connectors and a box that would fit into the driver's side inner fender. The 2 weatherpacks are set up so that if the relay or transformer fails, the delay box can be bypassed.
The circuit works great--tested under enough load that the rear tire was loose (I could rock it from the drivers seat). The bar immediately released and after 10 seconds the voltmeter showed an immediate drop to 6 vdc, and the bar stayed disconnected. I drove down the road steering back and forth with and without disconnect, and it works. By the way, when disconnected the front end does dive on sudden turns--but no worse than any old truck
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If anyone is interested, I have attached the schematic, BOM and a few pix. Not shown, I did add some ventilation holes.
So, I drew up a simple TDO (time delay-on) circuit. Went to Amazon and bought a 12 to 6vdc transformer, a 10 second delay-on relay, a couple of single weatherpack connectors and a box that would fit into the driver's side inner fender. The 2 weatherpacks are set up so that if the relay or transformer fails, the delay box can be bypassed.
The circuit works great--tested under enough load that the rear tire was loose (I could rock it from the drivers seat). The bar immediately released and after 10 seconds the voltmeter showed an immediate drop to 6 vdc, and the bar stayed disconnected. I drove down the road steering back and forth with and without disconnect, and it works. By the way, when disconnected the front end does dive on sudden turns--but no worse than any old truck
If anyone is interested, I have attached the schematic, BOM and a few pix. Not shown, I did add some ventilation holes.
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