What is the difference between the Tow-Pro Elite and Tow-Pro Liberty?
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FORD ACCESSORY BRAKE CONTROLLER INSTALL MADE EASY.!
- Thread starter jd-ford-hd
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- #17
Best I can tell one is dual voltage, 12 and 24 volt. The other is 12 volt only. Also the Liberty controls 1 or 2 trailer axles, the Elite controls 1, 2, or 3 trailer axles.
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Great post. Just installed mine today and put the knob in the same location. Quick and easy install, looks perfect and way better than the factory spot on the armrest.
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Good project for a rainy weekend coming up. Been sitting on mine waiting to install it for over a year I think.
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- #20
Great…you’ll love this brake controller. Loaded up my 14 foot trailer for a 4th of July trip to our river bottom and the brakes worked flawlessly.!
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- Chris
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- Jul 19, 2020
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- 18
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- 418
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- 1,097
- Location
- North Carolina
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- Bronco First Edition (Reservation)
- Your Bronco Model
- First Edition
It's a 1 beer install time.
Just finished this tonight. All of like 30 minutes start to finish, what an easy upgrade
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- #23
My original post here was for my 4 dr Badlands w/factory tow. Here is everything (pics) that I used on my 2dr Badlands wo/factory tow, for the benefit of those doing the complete tow install with trailer brakes from scratch. Running the dedicated "blue" brake circuit and +12v to the rear is the hardest part of the project, but not beyond most people's capabilities.! Blue wire runs through a firewall rubber grommet to be routed to rear. I picked up +12v at the accessory post on the battery with an inline fuse which means the 7 way has continuous +12v, not switched. I used a high quality, all weather, 12ga 3 conductor extension cord, cut the ends off and ran +12v, -negative and "blue" brake circuits to the rear. Works just like the factory tow with only minor differences in rear sensor warnings still active while in reverse. The plug by the gas pedal activates the controller without any mods.
Great post, @jd-ford-hd ! Picked up my brake controller from the dealer today and had it installed 30 minutes after I got home. This is a MUCH easier and cleaner approach than the instructions recommend.
The only surprise during the install was something left for me by the previous owner. Tracing and removing this nonsense is a job for another day
How is someone gonna pay so much for a vehicle only to do this to it?
The only surprise during the install was something left for me by the previous owner. Tracing and removing this nonsense is a job for another day
How is someone gonna pay so much for a vehicle only to do this to it?
Almost gave up on searching then finally ran across this post. Great info and just what I needed to install on my 23 BL w/o the tow pkg. I already had everything in your setup installed for a 4 pin and fixing to start my install of the Redarc controller and 7 pin. One question, the wire on the 7pin labeled as reverse, is that not required since the controller is plugged into the factory harness ? Just 3 wires to the rear for Brakes , power & ground ?My original post here was for my 4 dr Badlands w/factory tow. Here is everything (pics) that I used on my 2dr Badlands wo/factory tow, for the benefit of those doing the complete tow install with trailer brakes from scratch. Running the dedicated "blue" brake circuit and +12v to the rear is the hardest part of the project, but not beyond most people's capabilities.! Blue wire runs through a firewall rubber grommet to be routed to rear. I picked up +12v at the accessory post on the battery with an inline fuse which means the 7 way has continuous +12v, not switched. I used a high quality, all weather, 12ga 3 conductor extension cord, cut the ends off and ran +12v, -negative and "blue" brake circuits to the rear. Works just like the factory tow with only minor differences in rear sensor warnings still active while in reverse. The plug by the gas pedal activates the controller without any mods.
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- #26
Since your 4 pin is in place, yes, only 12volt positive, negative and the "blue" circuit for activation of the brakes. The factory connector above the gas pedal has 4 wires: 12v+/neg./signal wire to activate controller/blue wire to deliver the braking voltage and lord only knows the trouble to find the other end of it. That’s the reason I suggest clipping that wire at the controller harness connector and run that circuit separate.
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