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PearlJamFanLV

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I used PLA first then out of abundance of caution due to heat of car in Houston decided to use PETG. Either should work on this part. Strength isn’t much of an issue. There is some shear considerations but mostly compression and almost no bending stress if threaded to shoulder. It’s just a guide.
I believe I have both at home, I will give it a try. Thanks for the post and share.
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roboticsrob

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Don't print anything functional out of PLA, it does quite poorly with temperatures, and UV. Others have given good advice, FDM 3D prints are generally weakest parallel to the build platform, since you're reliant on layer adhesion. PETG generally has quite good layer adhesion though. In general, I'd advise against printed threads of any kind on an FDM printer, and instead find the right size heatset insert, get some threaded rod, and use some thread locker (into the heatset insert) to create basically the same part, but without the printed threads.
 
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darinhouston

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Don't print anything functional out of PLA, it does quite poorly with temperatures, and UV. Others have given good advice, FDM 3D prints are generally weakest parallel to the build platform, since you're reliant on layer adhesion. PETG generally has quite good layer adhesion though. In general, I'd advise against printed threads of any kind on an FDM printer, and instead find the right size heatset insert, get some threaded rod, and use some thread locker (into the heatset insert) to create basically the same part, but without the printed threads.
All (mostly) technically true but really not an issue for this print - it's functionality is pretty light duty and PLA works just fine for many functional applications (and can fail more friendly than other filaments) - this print really works quite well and it won't be in the sun if you keep it in a bag or glove box so UV isn't an issue. But, use whatever technique and material you wish. PETG is recommended, however, for this print.

For those asking for a STL file, I've attached a zip file with both a standard STL file and a (somewhat preferred but still compatible) .3mf file.
 

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darinhouston

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BTW, if someone hits the pin with the door hard enough to break it they're more likely to have larger problems from chipping paint on their door or body than worrying about the strength of 3DP.
 
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darinhouston

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find the right size heatset insert, get some threaded rod, and use some thread locker (into the heatset insert) to create basically the same part, but without the printed threads.
By the way, if anyone does this with a heatset insert I’d love to see a video of your technique. The shape and dimensions aren’t particularly favorable to that to my mind. But if you have skills, do share them please.
 

JBlanco

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Nice! Dusting off my PETG filament and dropping it into the dehydrator!
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