- Thread starter
- #1
So I've been working on some power modifications for my RSE stepslides, to make them more integrated with the vehicle and give more control to deployment.
My first experiement failed, but I did find a few handy spots for relays and/or grounds that might assist other projects:
While I prefer building a plate to keep all my aux-wiring organized and in one spot, these single points were very helpful for quick experiments.
Inside the engine compartment, along the seam between the cowl and the firewall, there are body grounds screwed into welded nuts on each side of the compartment. There are also several unused weld nuts that would be ideal for grounds and/or relays.
Unfortunately, the unused weld-nuts are not yet tapped. I thought my project was over until I bought the correct taps, but realized the the bolt used for the existing ground is very hard and tapered. I believe this screw is designed to self tap into the softer weld-nuts.
The existing bolt worked fine when used to tap the two unused weld-nuts beside it (as pictured above), but I can't guarantee this is what it was designed for. A tap would be safer if you have any hesitation, or don't have a replacement metric bolt on hand to replace this one, if broken or stuck.
This was my end result:
My first experiement failed, but I did find a few handy spots for relays and/or grounds that might assist other projects:
While I prefer building a plate to keep all my aux-wiring organized and in one spot, these single points were very helpful for quick experiments.
Inside the engine compartment, along the seam between the cowl and the firewall, there are body grounds screwed into welded nuts on each side of the compartment. There are also several unused weld nuts that would be ideal for grounds and/or relays.
Unfortunately, the unused weld-nuts are not yet tapped. I thought my project was over until I bought the correct taps, but realized the the bolt used for the existing ground is very hard and tapered. I believe this screw is designed to self tap into the softer weld-nuts.
The existing bolt worked fine when used to tap the two unused weld-nuts beside it (as pictured above), but I can't guarantee this is what it was designed for. A tap would be safer if you have any hesitation, or don't have a replacement metric bolt on hand to replace this one, if broken or stuck.
This was my end result:
Sponsored