2 ohm vs 4 ohm Kicker RT 8" Sub

[mig1980]

Good day everyone. As many have done, I will be replacing my 6 speaker system on my '23 Wildtrak with Kicker speakers.

I plan to install a Kicker 8" sub in the OEM sub enclosure (with the fake amp and sub) along with a Key 500.1 amp.

Trying to decide if I should purchase the Kicker 48CWRT84 (4 ohm) or the 48CWRT82 (2 ohm). I would love your feedback.

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[RagnarKon]

4 ohm imo.

It's kind of hard to explain the differences between the two without actually hearing them side-by-side. BUT...

• 4Ω voice coils are a little more accurate, precise, or tight sounding
• 2Ω voice coils will be louder and more boomy sounding

If you have an underpowered amplifier trying to power a 2Ω subwoofer it can make it sound very sloppy sounding, so for car audio 4Ω is usually the answer. BUT you won't have that issue with the 500.1 so not a concern.

I personally prefer 4Ω voice coils in a ported subwoofer enclosure. My brother—who is generally more versed in car audio than I am—prefers 2Ω voice coils with a sealed subwoofer enclosure.

 

[derichio02]

Really depends on how you are going to install also. The dual 2-ohm can be wired is series to give you a 2-ohm output and the 500.1 will supply 300wats rms power. If the 2-ohm is wired in parallel that would get you to 1-ohm which the Key 500.1 can handle but it would output too much power an likely blow the sub which is rated at 300 watts rms. Same logic works for the 4-ohm. In my opinion the dual 4-ohm gives you the most flexibility and safety.

 

[mpeugeot]

If you want a Kicker 48CWR84 4Ω 8 inch sub, I have one lying around ($80 shipped), I ended up with the 48TRTP122 12" sub-woofer because I wanted a bit more punch.

You don't need the shallow mount sub-woofer for the factory enclosure.

 

[Area51BS]

Use the sub impedance with advertised amp rating. Example 500 watts in to 4ohms. Use a 4 ohm sub. The damping factor drops if you run a 2 ohm sub. Damping factor is basically the amplifiers ability to control cone movement. It drops as impedance is lowered. Sure the amp may be 2 ohm stable. But sound will be better with 4 ohm. Some may disagree.

 

[Razorback]

Not to hijack this thread this thread since it involves the Kicker Key500.1... But the amp is rated at 500W @1 Ohm... @ 4 Ohms it's 150W; while the 8" Focal P FSE Flex is a 4 Ohm speaker with 200W and 400W peak. Would the Key500.1 be underpowered?

 

[Johnny Mo]

Not to hijack this thread this thread since it involves the Kicker Key500.1... But the amp is rated at 500W @1 Ohm... @ 4 Ohms it's 150W; while the 8" Focal P FSE Flex is a 4 Ohm speaker with 200W and 400W peak. Would the Key500.1 be underpowered?

Not sure about the focal, but the kicker is a dual voice coil 4 ohm, so when wired in parallel it drops to 2 ohm and that runs the Kicker Key 500.1 at 300 watts then.

 

[pdi27]

If you want a Kicker 48CWR84 4Ω 8 inch sub, I have one lying around ($80 shipped), I ended up with the 48TRTP122 12" sub-woofer because I wanted a bit more punch.

You don't need the shallow mount sub-woofer for the factory enclosure.

Still got it??

 

[mpeugeot]

Still got it??

Sure do.

 

[Sluggz]

Not sure about the focal, but the kicker is a dual voice coil 4 ohm, so when wired in parallel it drops to 2 ohm and that runs the Kicker Key 500.1 at 300 watts then.

Did you try the focal in the sub enclosure?

 

[Johnny Mo]

Did you try the focal in the sub enclosure?

No, I did not. from a sub perspective with the acoustics we can achieve (that will matter - ie not competition level audio) I felt the kicker was the best bang for buck. My other speakers are Infinity and Memphis - but if I increased my budget a bit - probably would've gone audiofrog. But honestly I am extremely happy with the sound I achieved for the budget I consumed - but still disappointed that the B&O system even needed to be fully revamped.

 

[Sluggz]

No, I did not. from a sub perspective with the acoustics we can achieve (that will matter - ie not competition level audio) I felt the kicker was the best bang for buck. My other speakers are Infinity and Memphis - but if I increased my budget a bit - probably would've gone audiofrog. But honestly I am extremely happy with the sound I achieved for the budget I consumed - but still disappointed that the B&O system even needed to be fully revamped.

Yea I would be upset too about that. I had looked at the Audiofrog mid bass/sub and I am pretty sure it would fit, but I don’t know. Hard to shell out that kinda money hoping it will fit and sound decent in that not super optimal enclosure when I can just buy a shallow down firing sub for cheaper and know it’ll hit the lows I want

 

[shadowGovernor]

So how to wire the 4 ohm dual coil kickers when only replacing the factory sub on an already B&o 2025 MY?

 

[Brian_B]

So how to wire the 4 ohm dual coil kickers when only replacing the factory sub on an already B&o 2025 MY?

If you are keeping the B&O amp - you just keep the dual coils and wire each coil to the corresponding wiring. The factory amp doesn't bridge, so you don't need to combine the coils when using it.

 

[23OBX2.7]

So how to wire the 4 ohm dual coil kickers when only replacing the factory sub on an already B&o 2025 MY?

Metra 72-6514 adapter plugs for plug and play no cut OE wiring.

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