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The aftermarket offers angled crashbars, if you want to keep something in there. Just keep in mind that a top-hat spacer lift would not be compatible with long-travel struts, something to keep in mind for the future when it's time to change out the struts. I mention this because I view the...

It looks like the BroncBuster spacers work on both front and rear? 1.5" BroncBuster in rear, only, and 1" level kit up front. Gain half an inch of rake. If you want to create a bit more tire clearance, then add 0.75" body lift.

Ya know, I tend to run it in rear-wheel drive almost all the time. I only use the full-time 4 in slippery conditions. In rear-wheel, the front CVs are receiving no torque via >99% of my driving. No surface pressure on the CVs (no PxV, to use the engineering lingo), no mechanical wear.

Sometimes that's the best approach. Most are willing to do what reasonable customers want, but don't want to be in the position of having misunderstood the customer's request.

I think the only potential warranty issue could be using front top-hat spacers, because of the front CVs. This is as good a time as any to mention that using front top-hat spacers could only be a temporary "solution," because eventually everyone will want longer travel front struts, at which...

1.5" body lift is relatively cheap and easy to install. It will make room for 37s without twerking your suspension.

It could be a long wait for that. The solution is to use rear spacers to restore the rake you want. The IFS has constraints, so you dial in the front with minimal use of spacers (or no spacers at all up front). Out back, you can use all the spacers you need to get the rake you want.

Agreed, I'm hoping as the knowledge spreads more of these will be available in the future

Yes, it won't be hard to fit 35x11

Some of the aftermarket springs have progressive rears to bear up better under load. The purpose of those progressive rears is to improve load carrying.

Or 36.5" https://tiresize.com/tires/Nitto/Recon-Grappler-AT-37X11.50R17.htm

Yes, having more uptravel than downtravel mostly eliminates offroad rubbing, because you won't remain at full compression on one side.

Not exactly. The aftermarket designs balanced swaybars for rat rods, not for offroaders. RockJock gives us a couple bars, and then we're expected to fiddle around with their adjustability options if we want front and rear balance. The concept is the same aftermarket offerings for sport...

To maximize front articulation. However, the rear-only swaybar should be firmer than Anti-Rock to maximize front articulation. Why not set up your vehicle this way for overlanding? One of the complaints enthusiasts have about OEM suspension tuning is the understeer, by design (because...

If you can live with half-an-inch less diameter, 285/75R18

You generally want IFS uptravel close to equal with downtravel. Err on the side of having slightly more uptravel. So the sas coilovers without spacers are a good recommendation. If you want more lift, for the look, then add equal amounts of (1) top-hat outside-the-strut spacer and (2)...

Aim for an extra-firm rear swaybar, to maximize your IFS travel. If you don't like the feeling of not having a front swaybar, then use the anti-rock up front.

You are completely correct. The factory sas package extends the bumpstops (reducing overland travel) to ensure those larger tires won't rub. However, there is a meaningful distinction that prompts so many on the internet to favor a lift : If you inspect your wheelwells, you'll see there's...

Skinnier tires are not just easier to fit. Testing shows that skinnier tires are also better at climbing over obstacles.