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I shouldn’t like this but I kinda do.

All told, the Key 500 install with Additve Audio 3d box and Kicker L7T 8” went pretty well. Taps off the factory sub harness gave good low level signals. Fitment is excellent. I put tons of deadener in the area with focus on any area the box might touch. now, I almost came on here to...

Here a couple of pictures of what my loop that returns the head unit power to the rear pods looks like on my harness now. There’s no reason to make a big loop so it’s only a couple of inches. There are proper crimp connectors under that. I just use cloth tape because it keeps the bundle tight.

@RagnarKon did exactly that way. Changing from parallel to series will change the ohms from 2 to 8. That will be a lighter load on the amp. However, there are major costs to that approach. As wired stock, the kick and dash split the power they receive. Using the key, that would mean at 4...

Here are the speaker rings if anyone was not sure what they look like.

Good stuff to finish up this build.

should be pretty cool if you have the 3 way all figured out? . Did you source a dash template/bracket for a tweeter and 3”? I found a guy who sells them for $150 instead of the $400 I’ve seen online.

this used to be the standard back when LOUD was all that mattered https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KSC7702/Kenwood-KSC-7702.html

3d printing pods should be easily doable. I found this in one shot. https://www.printables.com/model/1253818-tweeter-pod-for-scanspeak-d3004602006/files Assuming you don’t mind spending the money (they are not cheap) and you also don’t mind paying somebody for the dash adapters, I would put...

More important question is Why. Tweeters are very directional. You will be drawing attention to the rear stage which is the opposite of SQ install. If max volume is the plan for top down blasting sound, then maybe buy a plastic tweeter pod and attach next to the 6.5 pod? I’d personally just...

Sweeeeeeeeet. A close family friend had the Bandit model with a 4 speed. He let me drive it as a 13 year old. It was a damn good cruise.

Yep. It can be a little tedious, but it’s not that bad overall. Looking forward to hearing your results once you’re done DSP tuning, and setting gains. Remember to set your fader full front and remove the fuse for the subwoofer amplifier. bTW when @RagnarKon finally changes his set up, he...

In the kickpanel? You want a stand alone woofer. Not a coaxial or separates. If you use the bi-amp setting, you will be running the kicks in a limited frequency range. They are crossed over at 640hz so frequencies above that won’t play in the kick. If all you have is a coax speaker then it...

You got it. We are rewiring it so that it acts like the harness isn’t there for the two rear channels. We’re just passing head unit Power on channels three and four of the head unit back to the rear pods.

I just reread these two things in your prior post. I did all of my DSP set up with my head unit volume at 24. That is about whenever it starts to clip. You shouldn’t be raising and lowering volume while you’re setting gain if that’s how you’ve been doing it. I set my gains using pink noise...

Correct. I unplugged the kick panel speakers, put some foam wrap around the connector, then tucked it out of the way, so it doesn’t make noise. That leaves the dash speakers connected to amp one alone. Absolutely no changes to the stock wiring. The only thing getting altered is the wiring...

I bet you money if you do the rewire to bi amp, you won’t bother with the 6 1/2 in the rear. There’s just no need.

Post number 64 has an Image with The polarity of the wires. It shows where they plug into the amp so you can identify yours. Use that to figure out how your harness is wired and then just map it. Write it on a piece of paper so you know which one is positive and which pairs are left and right...

You will need to change your harness. I detailed it a few posts back. You want the head unit power for the rears bypassing the Kicker entirely. They should remain stock power for just rear fill. You will rewire the amp 2 out puts to just the 6.5 kick panel speakers. The dash will just run...

Haven’t done that yet on the dash! Thanks, it’s a very inexpensive upgrade that helps lots at the kicks. I did use plenty of sound deadening material inside of the cavity behind the 4 inch dash speaker. There’s not a lot to work with in that space so.