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Mine was so *%$^$@#$ tight that I used a 6 point wrench on it and it still slightly rounded off. I bought a new one before I started the process and ended up installing the new one when I closed it up.

1000%

Here you go: It is 5/16" OD and 1/8" ID. The "curve" is 2.9" OD and 2.35" ID. The length of the short part of the cane is 2.9" and the long part is 12".

It's not just sold with the pump. Here it is: I'm almost positive it's quarter inch steel tubing for the one that I have. When I get home I can take a picture of it with a tape measure to give you an idea of what size it is.

I'll send you a PM.

Long shot, but anyone in the Colorado Springs area who does 3D printing?

The 3 are for the rear cover. Only the drain is magnetic from Ford Performance. I wanted all of them to be magnetic so I bought 3 exactly the same. The front axle has a magnetic plug too. The transfer case does not do if you want one, it will have to be purchased.

Thanks for the link. I thought that S&B made a dry model, but could not find it on their site. I may do a comparison between the two using UOAs to see if there is a difference in the silicon levels.

Did a little maintenance yesterday — changed the oil. It was a short run, which served two purposes: to determine the fuel dilution rates and to return me to a regular mileage interval with a UOA to follow. I will also change the rear axle fluid and cover soon, and will perform a UOA on the...

I run the FRAM Endurance, which for the money, is the best out there. With that said, and to your point, the FRAM Extra Guard (spin on) filters are cheaply made--but they outperform Motorcraft so there's that. Stepping up to an Ultra or Endurance does not break the bank and will get you 99.9% at...

Other than it it not being owned by a US company any longer, it is decent oil. Most any off the shelf oil is fine, it is the oil change interval that is more important versus the actual oil provided it meets spec... typically GL-5. Axles have a non-filtered, non-pressurized oil system so clean...

Happy to help! I had one on my Wrangler, but not on the Bronco. It is an easy install though, drill one hole (size escapes me at the moment) into the box below the filter, coat the nipple with air filter grease and install it.

It was xW-20 viscosity in a HO twin turbocharged engine--not something I am going to run. I switched to a better oil that stays in grade to ensure I am still running a xW-30 at the end of the run. All of these 2.7L engines suffer from fuel dilution which further reduces the viscosity...

Your turbochargers might care that you are running an xW-20 viscosity oil 1,000 miles into the run, or even less viscosity, the longer you keep it in.

Here you go--hope this helps. Happy to answer any questions: https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/carbonsteels-2023-wildtrak-build-maintenance-journal-filters-fluids-oil-changes-etc.86135/post-2133960

@CarbonBronco ^^^ this ^^^

Where are you in CO?

Yes, I did buy that specification, and you are correct--it states nothing about continuing to run an oil that has diluted/sheared past its intended viscosity.

It was out of grade in 1,000 miles (already a xW-20). Had I followed the iOLM, it would have been at the bottom of the xW-20 range or worse into the xW-16 range. I changed it at 1K miles and started using a 12.2cSt @100C oil that does stay in grade allowing me to run it to 5K or so. Like most...

How many people are experiencing accelerated wear due to fuel dilution and have no clue it is happening while following Ford (or any other OEM DI engine) recommendations?