Yep, 13V will still be enough for the starter battery to crank the engine. Once it’s running, the alternator should be outing out more than 13V and the Ecoflow will continue to charge.
Correct.
Looks like the Gen 3 Starlink can pull up to 10A at a time, I'd imagine the mini will be even less.
Essentially, you'll want to add up the max amp draw for all the devices you're planning on running simultaneously, then select a wire size and fuse that supports at least 120% over that.
The only thing that may be of concern are the fuses and wire gauge in your setup. The Pecron lists a max amp draw of 50A. The WeBoost should only draw are 2A, so that's pretty negligible. The big question is the sub amp's draw. If it's over 50A, that fuse up by the starter battery will blow (if...
That’s what you’re not getting. The reason this thread is so long and combative is because of your intentionally inflammatory way of questioning something that none of us can definitively answer.
Okay, then why do you even care? Are you honestly trying to understand the logic behind people spending money on what they want? Maybe they got a good deal on a Wildtrak, maybe their interests changed since their purchase, maybe they liked the Wildtrak decals, maybe they just don't know any...
I don't think anyone said OP should pay retail. Nothing wrong with looking for a deal, but this thread would be pretty quiet, if not silent, if only those who found an OEM dealership selling parts at cost were allowed to contribute.
It's not about what you're explicitly saying, it's what you're insinuating. By creating a whole topic on it, you're basically suggesting people who do this are idiots. Do you disagree?
Wow. I’m really surprised EcoFlow allows you to set the low voltage disconnect for the starter battery as low as 11V. That doesn’t make any sense. Like the guy said in the video, finer control of this setting would be nice, but setting it at 13V would be fine.