I want to say it opens all the way to the stop before hitting the rack, but it’s probably dependent on your specific rack. In any case, it’ll probably be your spare tire that touches the rack/bicycle first, so I don’t think it’s too big of a deal.
I don’t have that bike rack but use a similar one with the Kuat passenger side pivot. I went with that direction so I could fully open both the pivot arm and the door and have open access to the cargo area. Otherwise, you’ll be having to walk around the bike rack if walking around the driver’s...
IMO, the rim that goes around the perimeter of tire carrier base, like on the Hammerbuilt version, doesn't add a whole lot of additional support to the system. The tire carrier, itself, is going to provide more structural support than that thin strip of metal. The meat of it is in the bracing...
I don't think it matters. You've got two pieces of metal that are being bolted together. What's the difference between one being on top of the other or vise versa when vertical shearing forces are the primary concern?
Maybe I'm confused by your question. For install, it looks like you don't even need to take off the stock tire carrier. It sits flush against the tailgate (like normal), and then this brace gets bolted on top of it.
I’ve bought several different styles of 1/4-20 nuts and bolts from various places online without needing to grind anything. Just make sure you’re getting them for 10 series extrusion, otherwise you might run into fitment issues.
I had an itch to work on designing something a little more versatile... I present the Modular Cargo Platform (MCP)
Using 10 series extrusion as a frame, this will increase rigidity and platform security. Additionally, horizontal T-slot tracks run the width of the cargo area to provide flexible...
A relay is more commonly used in higher amperage situations, like for a winch or an air compressor. You generally don't want a large current running through those little toggle switches when the power is activated, hence the need for a relay.
That being said, you are correct. With LEDs like...
The way I described uses the relay in the supplied harness. The wires connecting to the battery supply the power to the light, but that power is essentially "cut off" by the relay. When the circuit running to the switch is closed (when the switch is on), that power going back to the relay tells...
Quickest way with minimal effort will be to connect the red wire’s eye terminal to the battery, ground the black wire’s eye terminal. That will provide power to the lights. Disconnect/cut off the three wires at the switch, tape up the white one, ground the black, and connect the red to the aux...