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I mean, that would be cool. I don't think it'd be useful for most people out there though.

Repositioned ACC sensor so it doesn't get blocked by 95% of the aftermarket bumper/winch mounting solutions out there.

Nope.

Yeah, the AUX switch should work fine for this application. With the switch turned on, did you check to see if there was any voltage detected at the end of the wire?

How did you determine a 20 foot (40’ circuit) 12 AWG wire is rated for 20 amps?

I have the Turn Offroad molle panels (very similar design) and I don’t have an issue getting a few clicks with the ratchet a couple times before I can just unscrew it the rest of the way by finger.

I can reach the front bolt by wrapping my arm around the outside between the roll bar and the window.

With your arms.

Thanks for the info. I was able to compare this to the simulator I built for modeling these kind of scenarios:

This is considered streamlined and compact?

Added a couple of utilization profile presets to make configuring common items a little easier. @RagnarKon, does this produce a fairly accurate representation of you've seen with your power station/fridge setup?

Correct. That's 65A going a distance of about 16 feet (round trip), which calculates out to around a 7% drop in voltage (3% is typically considered the accepted minimum for critical loads).

6AWG, that's it? Seems barely enough to transmit 400W of power, let alone 800W... I wonder how warm those cables get when it's fast charging.

@RagnarKon, new feature added just for you:

Yeah, this was originally meant to be a basic estimator to give a ballpark idea, but I kept adding more and more features. Something like that would be cool though, I think I’d need to build some sort of interface where you can define the power consumption profile over the course of 24 hours. I...

Hey all, I'm back with another dorky tool I threw together this afternoon. This one lets you plug in the specs for all your charging sources and powered devices for your dual battery or portable power station setup to get an idea of how long you'd be able to run things (screenshot below)...

The Baja Designs light bar wire comes out on the passenger side of the bar. At least that’s why I routed it through the passenger side.

IMO, this whole system you're designing seems overly complicated for what you're trying to accomplish. If the end goal is to power/charge devices, ideally, all that should be done from one auxiliary power source so that you can make sure the input charge rate can keep up with whatever the output...

I second the Blue Sea products, plus they’re local (Bellingham).

Agree with all the above. One thing I’ll add is the inverter should have its own fuse separate from the fuse block. Blade fuses cannot support 70A, so this will need to be a midi or mega fuse (or something else that can protect against that amperage). Yes, you should add your own fuse in...